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  1. #1

    Salt water prevenitives measures ?

    Is there any. And do any riders have a trick or two that work. To prevent the damage from salt water riding ?

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Elsewhere I have posted about using CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion spray. Applied to the engine and jet pump exterior, it creates a thick yellowish coating that protects the metal. Goes on slightly goopy, dries slowly to be much less sticky at room temperature.

    CRC 6-56 elsewhere where a less thick coating would be preferred.

    WD-40 does not have much staying power on surfaces. Avoid products that can degrade rubber hoses and/or wiring insulation.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Fresh water hose rinse over entire hull including jet pump and ride plate.

    Fresh water engine flush with salt-away. I added a tow valve to my Yamaha GP1800 to force the flush water flow towards the engine, otherwise a portion of the flow just dumps out the back at the jet pump.

    I use a compact wet/dry vac with wet filter to suction water out of foot wells and bilge areas. Long flexible wand and long hose help with reaching around the motor and the rear inside the hull.

    Alternate after rinsing is to use a leaf blower to get the water out of foot wells and generally dry the outside.

  4. #4
    SO JUST ORDERED GALLON SALT AWAY AND A FLUSH ADAPTER. only been flushing with water. BEEN USING CRC 656. SPRAY ALL THE MOTOR METALS. ETC. BUT. AFTER 14 YRS SALT USE ON A 04. YAM GP1300R. THE SALT FINALLY CUGHT UP the PUMP. HOUSING AND. THE IMPELLER housing. WEAR RING. etc. so. thats a long time. but now it costs to correct. so my 2015 yam fx cruzer will be getting the salt away flush. from here on out. small investment. thx for the responses.

  5. #5
    Xspook's Avatar
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    I rinse everything inside and out (less the battery) with freshwater.

    I use this to rinse the trailer and intake grate:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-Max-8...and/1000168323

    After all is dry, I spray the engine compartment with Lanox and the pump area with Fluid film.

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    You can't rinse a saltwater 'Ski enough, IMO. I've found various amounts of corrosion up in the handlebar, dash area, etc. Wash it ALL!

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  8. #7
    Interim's Avatar
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    In addition to the things mentioned above on anticorossion spray I have been using ACF-50 which I must say is exceptional. I have been spraying all inside (engine, cables, nuts,) everything. It really does not allow corrosion to pop-up. You can use it for any other metal materils outside.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I added a tow valve to my Yamaha GP1800 to force the flush water flow towards the engine, otherwise a portion of the flow just dumps out the back at the jet pump.
    Your idea of a valve to force the water flush caught my eye. Can you help me understand what you did here? Maybe a picture or two? I have 2 - 2016 VX's and pretty much 90% saltwater runs. I wanna keep them water jackets clear however I can. Thanks!


  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Antelco inline Tow valve on GP1800 SVHO, engine flush assist

    Quote Originally Posted by margareedaville View Post
    Your idea of a valve to force the water flush caught my eye. Can you help me understand what you did here?
    Maybe a picture or two?
    ...
    I was sure I had previously posted photos of this somewhere on here but I cannot find them now

    This is a tight area to work in.

    I shifted the X connector forward in the hull to get some room to insert the inline irrigation valve. It is the most compact plastic valve I could find with integrated hose barb ends.

    The factory flush hose (which often kinks) has been replaced with a longer hose and routed differently.

    I removed the stray zip tie after photo was taken.

    Here you can see the X connector now straddles the mid-wall opening.
    The hose to the intercooler is moved to front side of mid-wall.

    When the tow valve is in the closed position it forces 100% of the water flow coming in the flush connector to go forward. That flow divides at the X connector, part goes goes to the intercooler and the rest goes towards the engine.


    Front side of the mid-wall.


    Clearly I need to replace the factory hose clamps.

    Is there a better choice than buying them again from Yamaha?
    Something in stainless steel?
    Other than gear clamps?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #10
    canuck's Avatar
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    AWAB hose clamps are a good alternative to regular hose clamps all stainless with a smooth band I got mine from a local hose supplier.

    https://www.new-line.com/clamps/bolt...eel-gear-clamp

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