Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 50
  1. #31
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    1,367
    +1
    144
    In my industry, we moved away from applying dielectric grease to electrical contacts quite a number of years ago. I agree with the logic. It is an insulator and reduces the contact area between the mating terminals. Once in awhile I utilize some, sparingly, on a connector boot seal if I'm worried about it curling over on insertion, but that is rare.

    I wash my wiring harnesses with warm soapy water, also. It seems pretty much every Polaris I've been into the oil tank sending unit leaks and that, in turn, makes pretty much everything inside of the hull a yukky mess. Going back together, it is nice to pick up componets that are not slimy, slippery and dirty.

    Where did you acquire you the 1/4 silicone heater hose at? Good price? I really like the concept, but the stuff is rather pricey and I never seem to keep a watercraft to long.

    I've been utilizing lightweight household oil, that is packaged in the red & white metal squeeze can to lubricate cables ever since my first snowmobile in the late '60s. It seems to work well, but it is a gravity feed application. I have some of the aerosol cable lube specific products that I've utilize with the clamp-on cable lubricators when I can't gravity feed. I never sure how much is actually making into the cable sheath and they are messy to utilize. I had given some thought to utilizing fluid film.

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    In my industry, we moved away from applying dielectric grease to electrical contacts quite a number of years ago. I agree with the logic. It is an insulator and reduces the contact area between the mating terminals. Once in awhile I utilize some, sparingly, on a connector boot seal if I'm worried about it curling over on insertion, but that is rare.

    I wash my wiring harnesses with warm soapy water, also. It seems pretty much every Polaris I've been into the oil tank sending unit leaks and that, in turn, makes pretty much everything inside of the hull a yukky mess. Going back together, it is nice to pick up componets that are not slimy, slippery and dirty.

    Where did you acquire you the 1/4 silicone heater hose at? Good price? I really like the concept, but the stuff is rather pricey and I never seem to keep a watercraft to long.

    I've been utilizing lightweight household oil, that is packaged in the red & white metal squeeze can to lubricate cables ever since my first snowmobile in the late '60s. It seems to work well, but it is a gravity feed application. I have some of the aerosol cable lube specific products that I've utilize with the clamp-on cable lubricators when I can't gravity feed. I never sure how much is actually making into the cable sheath and they are messy to utilize. I had given some thought to utilizing fluid film.
    I found 25 ft of FlexFab 5526-025 on eBay for $55... which at the time I thought was a great price and bought it. Then I found a place called hosewarehouse.com - FlexFab 5526-025 25 ft for $39!

    I use a standard cable luber for the smaller cables with the fluid film. It still is a messy process and Fluid Film really stinks - my GF says it smells like a wet sheep . . . LOL. But I am confident that the lanolin based lubricant will outlast any other cable lubricant when it comes to water washout. I just keep spraying until it drips out the other end . . . then I know its lubed.

    I built my own cable luber using short pieces of 1/4" or 3/8" hose (depending on the cable) with hose clamps to seal the ends and a small hole pierced for the straw. This worked real well for the shift cable and only marginally well for the steering cable. I have to fix the seal at the through hull fitting on the steering cable before I give it another go.


  3. #33

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Found the Fuel Filter (known) and the "doughnut" shaped 30 micron filter!
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=288609

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Me doing a better job at routing and securing the factory harness than Polaris did...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resized_20200807_110416.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	50.2 KB 
ID:	465458

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resized_20200807_110406.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	56.9 KB 
ID:	465459

  5. #35
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,985
    +1
    2,228
    Quote Originally Posted by bfarnam View Post
    ... a better job ... than Polaris did...
    Are you going to retain the awkward factory location for the EMM mounting?

    Factory cooling water flow for the EMM and stator cover?
    I installed separate water exit pissers for each, so I could tell if flow was reduced for any reason.

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    I did retain the factory EMM location but I have enough slack in the wiring to be able to move the EMM out about 6 inches before I have to remove the rear plug.

    I also will retain the factory water lines for now. I like the idea of separate pissers but that will probably be a project for later.

    This photo doesn't do it justice... i will take some more laterClick image for larger version. 

Name:	20200807_113819.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	101.9 KB 
ID:	465460

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Sooooo while testing the fuel system the fuel pump ran normal for about 2 or 3 minutes... then the I heard a squealing noise from the tank and the amperage shot up to 2.2 amps... pump or regulator not opening and stalling the pump? Before amperage was steady at 2 amps. Have to get a fuel pressure gauge on there...

  8. #38

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Ok... fuel pressure regulator seemed to be on the way out with only 22 psi. I have given some thought to using an external racing fpr but that will be a winter project as well. So for now I have a newish factory FPR coming... thank you MartinCom!

    While waiting on the EMM from Lakeside and the FPR, I decided to rebuild the jet pump and glad I did. There was still water trapped between the bearings.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200802_160856.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	54.2 KB 
ID:	465651

    The seals were shot!

    Freezing the bearings and heating the stator with a MAP torch really helped... bearing practically slid all the way in. Measured the collar and was still serviceable.

    After getting the pump aligned to the motor I will reassemble the back of the ski.

    I did purchae a DEKA AGM battery and ordered a new Rule 500 gph sump pump.

    Inspeected the inter throttle body linkages and they were not as bad as I thought. New TPS attached and awaiting install.

  9. #39

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    198
    +1
    12
    Update!

    After rebuilding just about everything and receiving my EMM back from @HiPerCo, I finally finished the ski Saturday afternoon.

    Some additional items that were addressed, added bellows to the steering cable to protect it from water ingress. The reverse cable was flooded with Fluid Film. Replaced the failing FPR I had with the FPR from @Martincom and pressure was right at 25 psi. Replaced the bilge with the new style Rule 500 pump - it's a tight fit.

    Realigned the reverse and steering angles and replaced the bilge pump rubber cap from a donor set of handlebars I purchased.

    I set the oil pump at about 1/16th rich past stock.

    After priming the fuel system and priming the oil pump (that was a PITA) it started after a couple of cranks and idles just fine. Hooked up the water line to the flush and found a pretty good leak on the left side of the water jacket cover. This particular ski is missing a bolt there from what I remembered on the 2004 Virage i. The best I can tell is that in 2002 the Virage series had a different flywheel cover (1201911) and water jacket cover (5630981-329) while the 2004 Virage series had an updated flywheel cover (1202574) and water jacket cover (5631431-329) which included an extra bolt, right where my water leak is!

    Water is significant enough to cause concern, but not significant to cause the bilge to fill up while running.

    Sunday we took the craft for a three hour tour . . . {insert the Gilligan's Island theme song here}

    Discovered just a few things:

    Won't always stay locked in reverse. If you give it a good goose it will flip to neutral. Any thoughts?

    Discovered that while the oil tank read empty and then read full after I filled it, it still reads full at the 1/2 mark. Guess I need a sending unit. I will ohm it out later this week. Might need to find another sensor.

    I used 1/2 tank of oil for 3/4 tank of fuel. Is this a little much? I set the mark about 1/16 inch rich past stock. Should I leave it there?

    EDIT: Just a ball park figure, but if I used roughly 3/4 of a 17 gal fuel tank (1632 ounces) and roughly half a 6 quart tank of oil (96 oz) then my effective ratio was 17:1.. a little rich. LOL

    I noticed the bilge did not take on any water, in fact after tipping it up on the trailer hardly any water came out. The water leak from the day prior suddenly disappeared. I had tightened the bolts but the gasket was wet. I wonder if after it dried out it suddenly sealed? I will look at this again on the hose this week.

    I noticed that the speedo is not very responsive. Upon first taking off and leveling off on speed, you can see the speedo creep up to your speed. I replaced the OEM line with 1/4" PVC tubing. Should I replace this with actual pitot speed tubing?

    Seemed to top out at 60 MPH. Ran silky smooth at idle and higher RPMs, but from 1,000 to 3,500 is not smooth. Thought I was on a Harley . . . LOL. From what I am told, this is pretty typical of the 1200 tripple.

    And now on for the hard questions. I noticed when I had the engine out, that the block as two capped nipples for the bearing oil injection. Could I upgrade to the MSX140 oil pump and inject oil into those bearing to increase the service life?

    I will take some pictures this week and post them. Overall the project I would consider a success!
    Last edited by bfarnam; 08-17-2020 at 02:00 PM. Reason: ratio

  10. #40
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,985
    +1
    2,228
    Reverse bucket not holding in position.

    Check whether the detention for the handle mechanism is actually allowing the locking pawl to click into place.

    Sometimes the reverse cable just needs to be adjusted slightly to allow the mechanism to fully engage and latch in full reverse.
    And sometimes the mechanism itself needs to have the sliding slots elongated slightly.
    and it all needs to be lubricated.

    If the reverse mechanism pawl/latch is broken, well, it would need to be fixed.

    Somewhere on here I have posted short videos and photos showing how it works when everything is ‘correct’.


    Regarding the oil pump, make sure the pump arm is pointing to the left side of the hull. The arm likes to swing around to the right side, and the cable will hook up, but the oil pump flow rate will be incorrect.

    Post a photo of the capped off ‘oil feed’ fittings that may be for the front and rear crank bearings. I have never seen them on a red 1200 engine.

    Excessive oil consumption, check that the bilge is not accumulating oil.

    A single full tank of oil should last through 4-6 tanks of fuel, if memory serves. I would fill my oil tank before a long weekend of riding and not take any extra oil with me. Refill the gas tank several times, oil tank would still have some left when we got home.

    Roughly 80:1 fuel to oil consumption, on average. More oil consumed per fuel tank if you spend all the time at nearly full throttle.

    Pitot tubing is small, about 1/8” ID. I suspect you have an air leak or a link somewhere between the pitot nipple and the back of the MFI.

    You may want to back flush the actual pitot in case some bit of grit is stuck inside the tiny hole.

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2002 virage txi
    By Jakespiteri in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 51
    Last Post: 07-12-2015, 01:06 PM
  2. Now What? 2002 Virage TXI...
    By PERCMAN25 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 04-25-2014, 04:25 PM
  3. Need help fixing 2002 Virage TX and Virage TXi
    By Grocery man in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-29-2013, 08:26 AM
  4. FS 2002 Virage TXI and 2003 Virage I with Double Trailer
    By dalepatter in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-25-2010, 05:01 PM
  5. 2003 Virage I and 2002 Virage TXI with Problems
    By dalepatter in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 63
    Last Post: 05-26-2010, 12:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •