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  1. #1

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    Post 2002 Virage TXi Restore

    So I am going through a 2002 Virage TXi 1200cc attempting to do a full up restore.

    These skis are almost 20 years old now, and there are a lot of areas that deal with rubber that need attention.

    So I decided to post some of the "gotchas" that I discovered. I won't, or at least I will attempt not to, post how to info that is covered elsewhere in the forum.

    And please, if anyone has any tips for areas I should address, please let me know. I am putting a lot of labor and love into this ski and I want it to last another 10 years!

    So far I have removed the jet pump and drive shaft, engine, reverse assembly, handlebars, top cowl, emm and bracket, complete exhaust, and oil tank.

    Today I will finish up removing the fuel tank and complete wiring harness before I clean the interior of the hull.

    Some of the things I have encountered so far . . .

    Removing the Engine - oh boy

    So the Polaris manual is extremely vague...

    Engine Removal and Installation -- All Models
    Engine Removal
    • Disconnect the negative (--), then positive (+) battery cables from the battery.
    • On DI models, the injectors can be simply removed from the cylinder heads as a complete set. Unless an injector is being replaced, there is no need to disconnect the fuel lines. Simply relieve
    • any fuel pressure as outlined in chapter four, wrap the injectors in a plastic bag, and set bag in footwell.
    • If the injectors are disconnected from the fuel lines, mark each injector with the cylinder number from which it was installed.
    • Always turn fuel valve off on carbureted models.
    • Remove the water inlet and outlet hoses from the engine and exhaust pipe(s).
    • Disconnect the throttle and choke cable (carbureted models) from the throttle bodies.
    • Disconnect the engine ground straps, and starter motor leads.
    • Disconnect the wiring harness from the engine sensors and components. Label connections for reassembly.
    • Disconnect the oil feed hose from the oil pump. Plug end with bolt and gear clamp. Always secure the oil feed hose so that the open end is higher than the oil tank outlet nipple. This will prevent oil from leaking into the hull when the engine is removed.
    • Remove the pump and driveshaft from the watercraft as outlined in chapter five.
    • On some models the exhaust system will have to be removed. This includes the manifold, pipe, silencer, and the connecting hoses.
    • Depending on the model, it may be necessary to remove the throttle bodies, carburetors prior to engine removal. If the carburetors/throttle bodies are removed, tape of the intake manifold openings.
    • Always use the help of an assistant or an engine hoist when removing the engine from the engine bay.
    On the TXi 1200 I removed the intake mani and exhaust mani. I did not remove the coupler and this proved to be a problem. There is a piece of the rear support rib that curves OVER the rear coupler and we couldn't raise the engine high enough to clear the rear left engine mount stud.

    Now we didn't use a engine hoist, this was lifted out by one person standing over the jetski with straps under the motor and dead lifted until it clears the hull and then two boards placed on the hull (accross the seat opening) to rest the engine until it could be lifted off of the ski.

    Because the coupler kept hitting that rear support rib, we had to spin the engine slightly to remove the left rear engine mount. Then once the couple was free of the support rib, the rear of the engine was lifted higher to clear that stupid support rib and the engine slid towards the back of the craft until it would clear the opening to finish the removal.

    IS there an easier way of doing this?

    There is nothing wrong with the engine to my knowledge, however, I am replacing the 6 magnet flywheel with a 12 magnet flywheel and replacing all the gaskets and o-rings on that side of the motor. On the 800 DI you can easily access these parts at the front of the seat opening. On the 1200 DI, not so easy.

    I will also be replacing all fuel lines and a performing maintenance on the thermostat and pop off valve while the engine is out. I will also compression test the motor to verify it is ok.

    Next Steps

    Hull Maintenance

    While everything is out of the hull, I will be inspecting everything. I will also need to re-attach all the wiring harnesses to the hull as the factory clips have fallen. This seems to be a common problem.

    Does anyone have a tried and true method of re-attaching the wiring harness support clips?

    Fuel

    I will be rebuilding the complete fuel pump assembly. I have done two of these so far and prefer to use the tap method to to secure the fuel pressure regulator. I also prefer to use the factory setup if it is all working, but replacing any filters that I need to. I will perform a bench test with a loopback hose and a tee to verify the pressures before I put it back in the ski. These dead head style fuel setups are the worst because a failed pressure regulator causes no pressure at the injectors.

    Reverse

    I have to rebuild the reverse assembly because the keyed end of the shaft that inserts into the handle snapped off inside the handle. This was stopping the machine from shifting. Now these parts are getting hard to find. Does anyone have a fix for these?

    After I removed the jet pump I notices the rubber boots on the reverse and steering cables (where the cable outer sheath attaches to the metal threaded portion that attaches to the hull, are dry rotting. So I will take some pics and I already have a solid fix for this using adhesive lined polyolefin heat shrink tubing.

    EMM

    The EMM is being sent to Darin at http://lakesidetech.biz/

    Other Electrical

    I have to perform circuit breaker maintenance, and the starter solenoid looks like it has been replaced with the new sea-doo style already. Some one has spliced the starter solenoid plug into the harness. At least they used what appears to be adhesive lined heat shrink. Of course I will have to inspect these.

    I also have to re-attach ALL of the splice points because every single one was flopping around inside the ski. Does anyone have any good pictures of where all these are supposed to be attached to?

    Water and Fuel

    Because this is almost 20 years old, you can bet that ALL of the fuel, fuel vent, and water lines are bad. It's best to just replace everything now.

    I will be using Sierra's Silverado 4000 USCG B1-15 line. This is a gray line that is more abrasion resistant than standard rubber B1-15.

    I know a lot of people use automotive lines . . . however, when your car develops a fuel leak, or worse yet catches fire, you can simply pull over and stand on the side of the road. And most fuel leaks in cars do not result in a fire. However, when your watercraft develops a fuel leak, it will most certainly catch on fire, and sometimes violently, and you just can't step off the craft and stand on the side of the road. Not to mention I have had my skin just about all burned off my arm (near full thickness with complete loss of 1st and most of the 2nd layer), it's not pleasant, and I do not want to repeat that.

    So I will be sticking to the USCG B1-15 line.

    Water lines, just easier to do this while everything is out of the hull.

    Jet pump maintenance

    The o-rings from the drive shaft are bad. But the impeller doesn't look bad and the stator (6-vane) is like new. I will check clearances, bearings, and water seals before reattaching to the hull.

    What did I miss?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Well done post!

    For the mid-wall extending over the PTO coupler, on my Virage TXi I trimmed the material away to leave a vertical edge, so the engine could be lifted straight up. I also shifted a bunch of electrical, water and other parts around to suit my preferences, so I forget whether there is ‘normally’ anything in the way to prevent simply slicing the SMC wall section away.

    I used an oscillating cutter to make the vertical cut. Lots of fine dust created but otherwise straightforward enough job.



    I will suggest rebuilding the jet pump regardless of how ‘good’ the seals and bearings seem. Not expensive to buy the generic parts (do try to buy good quality bearings and seals). Pump rebuild is not particularly difficult job. A failed jet pump can strand you in the water, and sometimes there are no/few warning signs.

    Same for the driveshaft through-hull bushing and seal assembly. New seals, and new bushings if there is any slop to the driveshaft.

    Where the (plastic) water feed tube transits from the jet pump through the transom there is a hidden rubber washer/seal. It is square shouldered and (nearly) impossible to access without removing the pump base. It is common for water to leak in around the water tube. Consider applying a good sealant where the water tube enters the pump base, along the sides of the water tube, not just around the rear surface.

    Inspect the o-ring at the rear end of water feed tube if age hardened or worn, same with any (there may be none) o-rings at the front end.

    The 2002 Virage has a particularly annoying location for the EMM mount, above the fuel tank, and that folded metal bracket has some sharp edges. Be careful working around there.

    On my own Virage TXi I rerouted the EMM and stator water exits to external water fittings (pisser) on the hull sides where I could see the water Exit flow. I have posted photos of these somewhere on here. The factory EMM water exit is fine, as long as nothing goes wrong ...

    Check the tiny plastic nipple directly below the driveshaft. There is a clear hose from the MFI that connects to the nipple of pitot fin. Sometimes the thin walled hose gets kinked or falls off. The plastic pitot nipple is quite fragile.

    I use and recommend the Deka manufactured ETX16 (or ETX16L) factory sealed AGM battery.
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  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Oh yes, the oil tank level sender tends to work loose. Add a couple of thin o-rings around the rubber sender ‘plug’ then wiggle it down into place. Add a thin band gear clamp around the tank neck to hold the sender in place.

  4. #4
    martincom's Avatar
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    Does anyone have a tried and true method of re-attaching the wiring harness support clips?
    I have good results with 3M Structural Adhesive. K447 mentioned he had good results with Permatex product, I believe, but I can't recall the specific product. Perhaps he'll chime in with that.

  5. #5

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    I have heard of some using the Permatex in a can . . . what 3M adhesive do you use. I have a two part gun so any 50ml DP product I can use . . . I use the DP100 clear for almost all my expox stuff

  6. #6
    martincom's Avatar
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    I have to rebuild the reverse assembly because the keyed end of the shaft that inserts into the handle snapped off inside the handle. This was stopping the machine from shifting. Now these parts are getting hard to find. Does anyone have a fix for these?
    My experience with broken reverse mechanism is from the handle being forced when the lock arm fails to fully disengage from the rotating arm. Typically, the lock arm breaks in two--but it appears the handle key way gave way in your case. The timing between the handle rotating shaft and the driving gear is off. This appears to be an original design flaw as every Polaris watercraft I've had apart had this issue. I was told by someone associated with Polaris that there was a "fix" for this, but I never saw anything official. The fix would have to be the rotating handle shaft and the driving gear. By elongating the four holes in the driving gear, I have been able to correct the timing so the lock arm fully disengages the rotating arm when the handle is operated. I added this information and photos to one of the two "stickies" in this regard. So check them for additional details.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I have good results with 3M Structural Adhesive.

    K447 mentioned he had good results with Permatex product ...
    For the Polaris oil tank? Hmmm 🤔

    I did use the thin o-rings and narrow band gear clamp method for the oil level sender plug.

    For the threaded in vent fitting on the oil tank, I don’t recall using anything to seal the fitting to the oil tank. Maybe I did, but it has been ten years ...

    I did relocate the tank vent check valve up much higher inside the hull.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post1485031


  8. #8
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfarnam View Post
    I have heard of some using the Permatex in a can . . . what 3M adhesive do you use. I have a two part gun so any 50ml DP product I can use . . . I use the DP100 clear for almost all my expox stuff

    I embedded a source link (green print) to Amazon. I would be near 100% positive that 3M offers the same product packaged for use in the DP dispenser gun.

    I utilize the same product around the oil tank vent elbow. It is a poor fit/connection and likely leaks, as well.

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  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I generally use 3M 4300 Fast Cure sealant for most things that need sealing on a watercraft.

    I use Permatex Right Stuff Black gasket maker when I need something to stick in place, more as an adhesive than a sealant, although it does seal quite well.


  10. #10
    martincom's Avatar
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    The Permatex Right Stuff I believe is the product you stated provided good results for re-attaching the plastic wire loom clips to the hull.

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