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  1. #1

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    2000 Polaris Genesis 1200 no start

    Iím looking for some help on a no start situation on a 00 Genesis 1200 (carb). The ski has been in the family for 10 years and has always been a strong runner. I recently acquired the ski after my mom couldnít find someone to work on it. To my understanding, the ski was taken out on the water and ran fine. The next time it was put on the water it wouldnít start. Mechanic #1 couldnít find the problem and mechanic #2 ďbypassed a safety featureĒ and it started. The mechanic never came back to fix it after he couldnít find parts. The ski has sat for 2 years and hasnít been touched.
    Iíve read a handful of forums over the last month and Iím still having trouble.
    To simplify the issue, when I press the start button...nothing happens.
    Battery voltage is good, MFD comes on and doesnít have any issues. All of the buttons have been ohmed and are in working order. I tried the LR-505 bypass but it didnít work. (Iím sure I might done it wrong)
    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    Click this link, lots of useful info
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    Do the LR-505 module bypass, and leave it bypassed until you get the engine working.

    Does this machine have the original start solenoid? Black body with metal backing plate. If yes, they are known to corrode internally and fail.

    As a test, install the lanyard. Then use a screwdriver or clean pliers to short together the two large studs on the solenoid (the two heavy red cables). Do not allow the tool to touch anything else, just those two studs. There will be sparks, so use a firm hand to create a solid electrical connection between the two studs. The engine should crank rapidly.

    If the engine cranks, it may also start. Pull the lanyard to stop the engine.

    If the engine does NOT crank AT ALL when the solenoid is shorted, then something else is wrong.

    Report back.

  3. #3

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    I have those documents saved onto my phone for reference material while I’m working on the ski. ����
    I’ve tried to jump the solenoid (which is OEM) and nothing happened. I tried this before and after the LR-505 bypass.
    I will clarify that I don’t believe I was doing the bypass correctly. I tried to follow your bypass instructions as well.

  4. #4

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    If you properly shorted the solenoid and the starter didnít spin you are left with, bad battery, bad connection (ground or large red positive), bad starter, or possibly a stuck bendix. Can u turn the motor over by hand by grasping the drive coupler?

  5. #5

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    Did you get sparks when you shorted the solenoid?

  6. #6

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    So I did some more research on the bypass. I believe I’ve done it correctly......now. I connected the purple/white wire and the shrouded black/white. I was able to short the starter solenoid and it turned over with spark (lanyard in). Does this mean I just need the LR-505 module?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seth.parks014 View Post
    So I did some more research on the bypass. I believe Iíve done it correctly......now. I connected the purple/white wire and the shrouded black/white. I was able to short the starter solenoid and it turned over with spark (lanyard in).

    Does this mean I just need the LR-505 module?
    Even with the LR-505 module properly bypassed, the Start button does not click the solenoid, correct?

    Unplug the small mushroom plug from the solenoid. Confirm that there is 12 volts across the two wire harness pins when the Start button is pressed. Use short pieces of thin copper wire to reach Into the small connector contacts, do not force the meter probes into the pin sockets.

    If no voltage apparatus between the two pins when Start is pressed, the bypass may not be correct. The whole point of the black/white wire portion of the bypass is to allow the white/black wire to complete the solenoid circuit to ground. +12 volts to the solenoid comes from pressed Start button, while electrical ground comes via the black/white wire.

    If you are using the purple/white wire, make sure the MFI display does NOT say ĎLockedí.

  8. #8

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    The start button does not cause the motor to turn over. It only turns over when the solenoid is shorted out. The MFI is unlocked. I’ll check the voltage at the harness on the solenoid and report back.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Even with the LR-505 module properly bypassed, the Start button does not click the solenoid, correct?

    Unplug the small mushroom plug from the solenoid. Confirm that there is 12 volts across the two wire harness pins when the Start button is pressed. Use short pieces of thin copper wire to reach Into the small connector contacts, do not force the meter probes into the pin sockets.

    If no voltage apparatus between the two pins when Start is pressed, the bypass may not be correct. The whole point of the black/white wire portion of the bypass is to allow the white/black wire to complete the solenoid circuit to ground. +12 volts to the solenoid comes from pressed Start button, while electrical ground comes via the black/white wire.

    If you are using the purple/white wire, make sure the MFI display does NOT say ‘Locked’.
    There is no voltage change on the harness when I press the start button.

    What could I do different with the bypass to make it correct?

  10. #10

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    So I figured out the problem!

    I started studying the wiring diagram and started tracing and ohming wires. Since I wasn’t getting any voltage at the solenoid harness, I ohmed the purple/red wire from the starter switch to the CDI purple/red wire. The multimeter showed OL in all ways that I set the probes. I knew that the start/stop button wasn’t the issue since I originally ohmed it and it was working properly. So I pulled the entire wiring harness out and took the wire loom off.
    When I pulled the wires out, I found that the purple/red wire from the start/stop switch split into two wires. At the connection, corrosion had ate through the wire and severed it completely. I spliced and crimped the purple/red wires and reconnected the all of the wires and BOOM....it fired right up.
    Long story short......salt water sucks. Thanks for the help fellas!


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