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  1. #11

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    Nice work so far. I would love to grab a single eng 135hp exciter n do a sho swap.


  2. #12

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    Spent some time this weekend building my fuel pump assembly to accommodate the MR1ís fuel injection system.

    I slid the fuel pump down a little bit further after I snapped the pictures.

    I have a diode installed at the top of my assembly so that either engine can activate the fuel pump. I followed this thread as a guide: http://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/vi...ilit=rectifier

    Not pictured: The dual port fuel pressure regulator. The ďFĒ feed port will go to the regulator. Unused fuel goes from the regulator back to the tank via the ďRĒ return port. What I havenít figured out yet is where to mount the fuel pressure regulator. Ideally Iíd like to mount it under the seat on top of the fuel tank so that I could easily check the fuel pressure gauge. But itís not quite fitting there.



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  3. #13
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Good progress. Not familiar with the fuel setup on XR1800 vs my LS2000 but I would think it would be most effective to place the fuel pressure regulator on the forward wall were the fuel line come through from the tank? Gives you a surface to mount securely too and is out of the way.

    In my experience seeing fuel pressure isn't critical until something is amiss and then you probably already have the engine compartment opened up anyways. Removing the rear seat bottoms to access the tank and fuel pressure gauge seems like extra hassle to me. Maybe yours remove easier than mine.

    I've had a itch to do a 4 stroke conversion in my LS2000 since I bought it. I have it planned out for the most part but finding good 4 stroke candidates is hard in my area it seems like. Especially the HO MR1 motors I prefer to use. On mine I will be doing my driveshaft/pump setup similar to the guy who converted his exciter over to MR1 motors. Using the intermediate bearing setup from a mid 2000s VX ski to push back the coupler almost flush with the back wall in the engine compartment. Otherwise there is no way I could fit a MR1 in, even with cutting. The XR1800s have a lot more front to back room than the Exciters/LS2000s because of that big exhaust on the PV motors.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by raiderteen View Post
    Good progress. Not familiar with the fuel setup on XR1800 vs my LS2000 but I would think it would be most effective to place the fuel pressure regulator on the forward wall were the fuel line come through from the tank? Gives you a surface to mount securely too and is out of the way.

    Obviously that is not as easily accessible for viewing but in my experience seeing fuel pressure isn't critical until something is amiss and then you probably already have the engine compartment opened up anyways. Removing the rear seat bottoms to access the tank and fuel gauge seems like extra hassle to me. Maybe yours remove easier than mine.

    I've had a itch to do a 4 stroke conversion in my LS2000 since I bought it. I have it planned out for the most part but finding good 4 stroke candidates is hard in my area it seems like. Especially the HO MR1 motors I prefer to use. On mine I will be doing my driveshaft/pump setup similar to the guy who converted his exciter over to MR1 motors. Using the intermediate bearing setup from a mid 2000s VX ski to push back the coupler almost flush with the back wall in the engine compartment. Otherwise there is no way I could fit a MR1 in, even with cutting. The XR1800s have a lot more front to back room than the Exciters/LS2000s because of that big exhaust on the PV motors.
    Yeah, on the XR1800 you just remove a seat cushion, pop off a cover plate, and thereís access to the top of the fuel tank and fuel sending unit. No screws involved.

    My initial thought was to place the regulator on engine bay wall like you had mentioned. I initially bought all my fittings for that type of setup. I would just really like to be able to look at fuel pressure for the first couple rounds of water trials to make sure I donít inadvertently lean out a motor by mistake.

  5. #15
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    I can understand that. Especially when running one fuel pump for two engines. What are the specs of that fuel pump? A twin engine 160hp MR1 powered boat burns I believe just under 100 LPH at wide open per a test I found online. Most pumps should be able to feed that easily. The infamous walbro high pressure 255lph pump should easily do it.

    Here is a link to some common fuel pumps with specs. http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html

  6. #16

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    Yeah, the FXHO jet ski service manual claims 45lph max fuel consumption.

    Iím using a cheap off brand fuel pump, High Flow Performance HFP-341. Figured Iíll experiment on something cheap before I dropped the money on a Walbro pump.

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  7. #17
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    I don't see any reason to believe that won't be adequate. What pressure do you plan to set the AFPR? Factory is in the 40-50 range correct?

    One question I had in my head when brainstorming motor mounts. When using that flat steel, did you machine off an equal thickness from the bottom of the factory mounts so you end up netting zero vertical increase? Or just get lucky with it lining up with the increased thickness?

  8. #18

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    XR1800 160hp MR1 Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by raiderteen View Post
    I don't see any reason to believe that won't be adequate. What pressure do you plan to set the AFPR? Factory is in the 40-50 range correct?

    One question I had in my head when brainstorming motor mounts. When using that flat steel, did you machine off an equal thickness from the bottom of the factory mounts so you end up netting zero vertical increase? Or just get lucky with it lining up with the increased thickness?
    Yeah, the manual says between 45-47psi.

    So my motor mounts for the XR had a metal plate under each motor mount. Going from memory, that plate I think was 1/8Ē thick. There was also 1/16Ē shims at each mount. So the 3/16Ē flat steel turned out to be exactly the right thickness.

  9. #19

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    XR1800 160hp MR1 Conversion

    I canít get Engine #2 to fire up. I have it on the engine dolly hooked to fuel and battery. It will fire up briefly if I spray carb cleaner down the throttle bodies. Fuel pump is pumping. But the injectors arenít feeding the motor.

    I hooked up the Yamaha Diagnostic System, and found nothing out of the ordinary. Through YDS, I turned on the fuel pump. I then activated each injector individually via YDS, but even though they all made clicking sounds, none actually sprayed any fuel.

    So Iím thinking I have an obstruction in the fuel rail somewhere?

  10. #20
    On the gauge... basically you can't without reverse engineering the FXHO gauge protocol and doing some programming to read the data stream and output what you need. Its way down my list of things to do (I have an exciter 220 and plan to do vx110 swaps, same protocol).

    On the yamaha jet boats I have worked with, the tachometer signal comes from the stator, pre rectifier. Its a 12 pole stator (common on outboards) and provides a stable signal separate from the ignition system. Unfortunately a MR1 engine has an 18 pole stator so tapping this won't work. The only option to use that tachometer with a MR1 is A) something to digitally create a tach signal from the serial protocol going to the OEM gauge (you are gonna need to learn coding, and some embedded systems stuff) or B) a pickup which simulates a 12 pole stator on the pto coupler or something.

    The next option is to get rid of those tachs and use something that can accept a more reasonable signal for the option B above. Or something that can accept a signal off of one coil.

    I would personally mount the clusters in the engine bay and run the buzzers up to the console area. This way you get notification of an issue. You could probably use the buzzer output to illuminate the gauge indicator if desired. Put a resistor in the fuel gauge plug so it reads full on the clusters and doesn't beep all the time.

    Note: a GP1200R uses the CDI unit to get a tach signal. I think on the jetboat engine it uses the stator as above. I am not 100% as I have never dug into the wiring on a PV jet boat. It stands to reason that the gauge is a standard gauge which matches the stator output that yamaha uses this method rather than the digital signal from the cdi.

    On the injector issue, you may have clogged injectors. Pull one out of the rail and see if you have a fuel on top of the injector. If the machine sat for any length of time this could be the issue.

    On the single pump thing, I wouldn't do it because even a slightly leaky injector could cause a non running engine to fill with fuel. Lots of reason you might try to limp back to the dock on one engine (obstructed pump, split cooling hose on one engine, low oil on one engine and dont wanna blow it up by running it, or even a leaking fuel line/rail/whatever). But as long as you are okay with the tradeoff and understand the issues there then let it ride.

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