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  1. #21
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    I'm sure you didn't hurt anything by running the Seafoam. When I owned the Sea Doos, one time I got a giant black spot that shot out of the exhaust of one of the skis. Kind of scared me because I'd never seen anything like that. Other people have experienced the same so it does happen.

    Tearing into the carbs and cleaning everything out is going to make all the difference in the world. I wish you had genuine Mikuni carb kits but you've got what you've got. The Mikunis are pricey at about $50 per kit.

    I said I'd write up a tutorial explaining the one area of the carburetors that I don't see many people talking about. I'm going to try to do that and include some Mikuni pictures to show you and others what I'm talking about.


  2. #22
    Skwangtang's Avatar
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    I'd really appreciate that. Idk maybe I'll get the genuine mikuni ones this week.
    Plan next weekend is definitely pull the carbs and at least clean them and see if they're salvageable.

  3. #23
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    In cleaning up Mikuni carburetors, one area that doesn't seem to get much attention is the three ports (two that are microscopic and one larger port) that are inside the outer venturi or "barrel" of the carb right about or just below the throttle blade. The two microscopic holes are tiny. All of these ports work to allow the carbs to transition from idle to higher rpm. IIRC, they are effective up to medium rpm.





    The first attachment shows the ports that I'm talking about. They're highlighted in red and called the low speed outlet and bypass holes (2 of them.) I'll try to describe how you're going to get a carburetor cleaner can's straw into place to blow the ethanol gunk that's probably clogging one or more of those ports.

    Look at the second picture. Now lets begin!

    There will be two Phillips screws holding #39 (valve body) to the carb. Underneath it will be the main jet #36 and the low speed or pilot jet #35. It's the pilot jet that is the critical one to be cleaned. It connects to the ports that exit into the outer venturi that I mentioned above. It just so happens that the straw that comes taped to the side of a new can of carb cleaner fits perfectly into a pilot jet! If you don't have the straw, use the one off of your WD40 can or buy a new can of carb cleaner. Make sure it has the straw taped to it's side!

    Make sure the low speed mixture screw is in place. I usually lightly bottom it out. Now, to clean those small ports requires three or four hands so a buddy to help is highly recommended. I'm usually working alone but I've done this many times. Get a bud or your girlfriend/wife to help. Make sure you're wearing eye protection because that carb cleaner really burns if it gets into your, his or her eyes!

    Hold the carburetor so you can see down the venturi (barrel) from the top. Now open the butterfly so you can see all the way through the barrel. Insert the carb can straw firmly into the pilot jet. Squirt carburetor cleaner into the pilot jet. If the ports are not clogged or if they're only partially clogged, you should see carb cleaner shooting out of the side of the barrel. In other words, shooting into the barrel. If those ports are clean, you should see three very strong streams shooting perpendicular to the barrel inner diameter. If there aren't three streams or one or more are weak, you've got some clogging. More carb cleaner and/or compressed air are needed into the pilot jet to blow the clog out. Don't give up on this until you see three strong streams. If only the larger port is shooting carb cleaner through, then if you plug that bigger hole by putting your finger over it, you'll force the carb cleaner/compressed air into the smaller bypass hole ports. See why I said having a helper is highly recommended?

    My Sea Doos would not run right if any of those passages weren't flowing 100% freely. My WaveRaider is the exact same. It won't run right if any of those passages aren't completely open. Obviously it's usually one or both of the small bypass hole passages that's clogged.

    Like I said yesterday, this isn't a tutorial to tell you how to clean or rebuild the entire carb. This is just focusing on those oh so important low speed outlet and bypass ports. So important.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sbn_exploded.pdf   sbn_main_cutaway3.pdf  

  4. #24
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    I hope you're able to expand those carb pictures that I attached to the last post.

  5. #25
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    I'm not the most tech savvy but I did just use my iPad and I was able to download the "Attached Thumbnails" PDFs. They downloaded nice and clear and you can expand them. Those PDFs should be very helpful.

  6. #26
    Skwangtang's Avatar
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    Screw it, you got a good link to genuine mikuni carb replacements?

  7. #27
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-MIK...taJx#vi-ilComp

    I purchased a package deal ($93.95) which included a pair of genuine Mikuni carb kits for my '94 Raider 3 months ago from this seller via eBay. I looked in my "purchase history" and it appears this 2-carb kit package may be out of stock. You may be able to contact the seller. It could save you about 10 bucks to buy the 2-carb kit package if they have them available.

    The carb kits DO NOT come with a new carburetor base gasket. You're gonna need that as well.

  8. #28
    Yes, oem mikuni kits are expensive but they don't need to be changed out nearly as often as cheap kits. 1 year for a cheap kit, 5 years for an oem. Or something along those lines lol.

    Most people don't clean carbs correctly. Take it all the way apart, then soak in cleaner overnight.

  9. #29
    Skwangtang's Avatar
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    Just did another seafoam purge. Roughly 17-18 ounces in one gallon of 40:1 premix gas. Ran for 15, sat for 15, ran for another 15. Second run had lots of sputters and lots of carbon come out.
    Going to let it sit for a bit while I run into town. Gonna pull off the carbs when I get back. If they're somehow miraculously cleaner or newer than I suspected aka not original then I'm suspiciously the oil and 40:1 mix might be at play. It is for 2 stroke outboard but I dont think thats be a problem right


    Update:
    Oh yeah carbs are definitely toast. Having a hard time getting it apart but I was able to get the fuel pump apart and all the rubber parts are falling apart. The gasket from the carbs to the intake manifold was also completely shot.
    Now for the screws that are stubborn, I've seen people use those manual impact drivers to get them out. I have a regular power tool impact driver. Would that be safe to use? Or should I just invest in the manual driver and the proper screw head set.
    Last edited by Skwangtang; 08-01-2020 at 02:20 PM.

  10. #30
    dannyual777's Avatar
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    I would suggest that you try your power impact driver first. Mine works awesome and can loosen screws that I wouldn't be able to loosen with a screwdriver. Just make sure you use a bit that really fits the screw head well.

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