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  1. #11
    radio-active's Avatar
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    Also, be aware that many fuel pressure gauges don't adequately depress the shrader valve core. I had to try three different gauges to get a valid fuel pressure reading. The "loaner" units from the auto parts stores didn't work at all. Finally found one here at Polaris that was in a little used tool box left over from the watercraft days.

  2. #12
    What measures can be taken to stop this goofy thing from falling off again?

  3. #13
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M1XX View Post
    What measures can be taken to stop this goofy thing from falling off again?

    See the link I embedded (green text) in post #7 of this thread.

  4. #14
    I got the fuel pump out. The fuel regulator is in its proper place. The pump itself has 65+ ohms at the contacts. However at the plug on top the reading is OL. The red wire to the pump is bad the black is good. Do these numbers sound right?
    Also I broke the brittle plastic barb where the return line connects...just too little room to get off that clamp. Any repairs?
    There still is a little of it left, prob enough for a clamp if I cut the support plastic on the bottom. Thanks
    Last edited by M1XX; 08-01-2020 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Spelling

  5. #15
    martincom's Avatar
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    I would highly recommend you replace the nylon head piece. A fuel leak in a PWC can quickly turn into a tragedy. The leaking gasoline will quickly vaporize in the hull, due the high temperatures from sunlight and engine heat. They simply won't burn, they'll explode. If you survive the blast, you'll likely be unconscious and drown.

    Your the second guy this week with broken nipples. I have one left. I'll tap it and install the hose barb nipple for the regulator reinforcement. $60 shipped. Chrysler utilized nearly the same canister on mid-90s minivans. You may be able to find one in a salvage yard. The parts store sell them new for near $100. Bear in mind the minivan pump draws far too much current, so the pump, itself, is not a suitable replacement.

    If your fuel canister exhibited signs of being removed in the past, I would suggest you measure the current draw of the pump. We have found all but one of the so-called "direct replacements" draw far too much current. The last thing you want to do is go through all the work to remove the canister again needlessly.

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  7. #16
    Fair enough! I was warned not to get tough with those brittle little things.
    Give me contact info for the part. Thanks.

  8. #17
    martincom's Avatar
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    Alternative FPR Reinforcement & Snapped Off Return Barb Repair

    Well, as I indicated in our email exchange, I did not fair any better. The canister return line barb snapped off when I was razor cutting the hose off.

    I believe I've come up with alternative repair:


    1. Tap the nylon head piece as if you were performing the hose barb FPR repair. However, instead of installing a hose barb adapter, install a 1/8 brass male pipe plug to close this opening. https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Brass-Pip...6477344&sr=8-6
    2. Drill the blank port, on top of the fuel canister, to accept a bulkhead fitting & install. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...O078ITBS&psc=1
    3. Thread 1/8 hose barb adapter in bulkhead fitting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...Z36UDX1I&psc=1
    4. Attach FPR/Hose assembly to 1/8 hose barb and secure with hose clamp. Coat hose barb w/grease and warm tubing before attaching to fully seat hose.
    5. It will be easier to assemble the above components before mounting bulkhead adapter in the blank port of the fuel canister port.
    6. Install 1/4 barb to 1/4 male NPT elbow in the top of the bulkhead adapter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...Z36UDX1I&psc=1

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  10. #18
    I like the idea of using the blank port with the brass fittings. Seeing the previous posts of similar repairs had me thinking along those lines...but you hammered it out. I'll do it once my shoulder heals. Thank you.


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