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Thread: Changing bunks

  1. #11
    Good write up Steve, I will be doing this again in the not too distant future I guess since I did use pressure treated 2X4 and lag bolts but all hardware is stainless so I got that part right. I'm interested in the Glide Ons you use, I did buy some "bunk slicks" (link below), but have since read that they can mess up the hull so I haven't put them on.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pc-Jetski...72.m2749.l2649

  2. #12
    steve45's Avatar
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    Yes, you could do that. If so, I'd put washers under the bolt heads.

  3. #13
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirborneSilva View Post
    Good write up Steve, I will be doing this again in the not too distant future I guess since I did use pressure treated 2X4 and lag bolts but all hardware is stainless so I got that part right. I'm interested in the Glide Ons you use, I did buy some "bunk slicks" (link below), but have since read that they can mess up the hull so I haven't put them on.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pc-Jetski-Trailer-Bunk-Slicks-Kit-PLASTIC-EZ-Slide-Poly-Glide-PWC-Waverunner/263294842140?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    I have not used those pads. I have used something called Bunk Mates, which are a hard plastic with grooves. I bought some sold by Kawasaki, and they SUCK! They damaged my hull after 100 miles of towing! I returned them, but still have dings in my Ultra 150 hull.

    I like the Glide Ons because they are soft and they have slots for drainage, which help get sand & grit out.

    I'd suggest keeping the lag bolts for now, but check them regularly. As the wood ages, they will probably get loose.

    I've also made bunk rails from recycled plastic. They do not degrade, but they expand and contract a lot with temperature changes. Not unusual to take the 'Ski off and find the rails bowed up 3 inches after riding for a couple of hours.

    Whatever type of plastic covering you use on the bunk rails, BE CAREFUL! They are SLICK! Do not disconnect the safety cable from your 'Ski until it's over the water. It will slide off the trailer very easily and could end up on the ramp! And the winch handle will hit you!

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    I have not used those pads. I have used something called Bunk Mates, which are a hard plastic with grooves. I bought some sold by Kawasaki, and they SUCK! They damaged my hull after 100 miles of towing! I returned them, but still have dings in my Ultra 150 hull.

    I like the Glide Ons because they are soft and they have slots for drainage, which help get sand & grit out.

    I'd suggest keeping the lag bolts for now, but check them regularly. As the wood ages, they will probably get loose.

    I've also made bunk rails from recycled plastic. They do not degrade, but they expand and contract a lot with temperature changes. Not unusual to take the 'Ski off and find the rails bowed up 3 inches after riding for a couple of hours.

    Whatever type of plastic covering you use on the bunk rails, BE CAREFUL! They are SLICK! Do not disconnect the safety cable from your 'Ski until it's over the water. It will slide off the trailer very easily and could end up on the ramp! And the winch handle will hit you!

    I'll be sure to check the lag bolts from time to time. I had thought of using carriage bolts but then I took off one of the bolts to see what size it was and it was a lag bolt so that's why I went back with that.

    I bought this stuff called liquid rollers (or something like that), and have used it once after I had the ski in the water I did a quick spray of the bunks, loading went real easy to winch it back on. I shore launch most of the time but sometimes I have to launch from a ramp and have read that with using the liquid rollers you have to leave it connected to the locked winch or else will lose it on the ramp.

    Thanks for your help and years of wisdom!

  5. #15
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    I currently have lag bolts on my bunks (doubled up 2x4) and they eventually get loose, mine need to be swapped for real bolts.

    Sean

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirborneSilva View Post
    ..l with using the liquid rollers you have to leave it connected to the locked winch ...
    I have used Liquid Rollers spray for years on my carpeted wood bunks. Apply to clean dry bunk carpet material that is not crushed flat or worn through.

    Once the Liquid Rollers spray application has dried, the hull does slide easily with little friction. We never undo the winch from the hull bow eye until the hull is floating in the water, or at least in position to be released and pushed off from the trailer.

    We have a double trailer, and during recovery one person typically drives the watercraft onto the bunks (which are only submerged at the rear), then holds it lightly against the bow roller with forward jet thrust at idle (sometimes slightly more than idle power in Forward if the ramp and trailer are on a steep angle) while the other person connects the winch strap and cranks the winch tight. The safety strap is also connected and snugged to the bow roller. Repeat for the other watercraft.

    Total time to reload the trailer is a couple of minutes, give or take.

    We have shop carts and transferring the hull from trailer to cart is WAY easier with the Liquid Rollers on the trailer bunks.

    I do NOT apply the spray to the cart bunks as it is too easy to accidentally slide the hull off the cart.

  7. #17
    K447 I'll most likely be putting the ski in the water tomorrow so will spray some on my bunks before I load the ski back up. When I do shore launches most of the time the end of the bunks may be just barely in the water so winching on can ware you out lol, I'm looking forward to seeing how easy it will be on new bunks with the liquid rollers.


  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirborneSilva View Post
    K447 I'll most likely be putting the ski in the water tomorrow so will spray some on my bunks before I load the ski back up. When I do shore launches most of the time the end of the bunks may be just barely in the water so winching on can ware you out lol, I'm looking forward to seeing how easy it will be on new bunks with the liquid rollers.
    On some trailers you might be able to reposition the rear end of the bunk supports lower, giving you maybe a few inches lower bunk ends into the water.

    Another trick is to install longer bunks that extend out the back another foot or so. That can give a little more flexibility to get the hull up and onto the bunks from shallow water.

    For shallow ramps and shallow water launching I do like the Triton single trailer with the bowed down cross beams. Really allows the hull to float off with a lot less water depth.

    On my own Triton double trailer I have added a Fulton tongue hinge and tongue extension. This lengthens the trailer and effectively pushes the trailer another 36 inches or so farther into the water before the tow vehicle touches the water.

    When parked I fold the hinge alongside the trailer so it does snot take up any more room than it would stock.

  9. #19
    WOW, just wrote this big ole thing and when I hit post I got a message saying that my token had expired anyway, I put the ski in the water today, the new bunks/carpet worked great made launching and loading a breeze! I did spray on just a little of the liquid rollers for loading so I'm sure that helped...

  10. #20
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirborneSilva View Post
    WOW, just wrote this big ole thing and when I hit post I got a message saying that my token had expired ...
    Sorry about that.

    Happens to me too from time to time. Sometimes I can click previous page on the browser and recover the text. Sometimes ...

    For long form writing (especially if it is going to take a while to complete), best to open up a text notepad app and do the writing there, then copy and paste into the forum web form.

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