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  1. #11
    cato3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcuhpw View Post
    I NEVER use Loctite on the impeller shaft. I use marine grade anti-seize and torque properly. Most factory service manuals recommend anti-seize also. Threadlocker may help seal out the threads a bit.
    What kind of anti-seize are you using? I think I have some Permatex silver anti-seize but don't know if it's good for the marine environment. I fought the jet pump disassembly on these two skis I have, not going through that again. But I take care of my stuff, do the maintenance on them.

    Quote Originally Posted by dcuhpw View Post
    The whole issue is the rear bearing. If rear bearing fails, the impeller shaft will allow the impeller to slide back towards the engine. Essentially the thrust from the impeller at the end of the driveshaft shoves the driveshaft straight into the engine and can wipe out your thrust bearing and destroy your engine. If kawi would simply have done some more machining on the housing and rethought the bearing layout this would be a non-issue. The nut sits in the nose cone at the end of the shaft (towards the rear of the ski) and acts as an extra safety. A failure at the front pump bearing can be bad and destroy your liner and impeller but the thrust from the impeller will destroy engine internals if the shaft slides forward and the double bearing setup does not prevent that. Impros does the mod to the impeller shaft for their 250/260 pump modifications. Personally, I went with the kawi performance kit since I needed a few replacement pump parts anyways so o just got the kit which includes everything. Green loctite at the rear inner bearing race may also be helpful. Either way, frequent pump inspection is critical
    I think I am understanding this a bit better. If you don't mind posting some more pics when you do the modification I would appreciate it!

  2. #12
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cato3 View Post
    What kind of anti-seize are you using? I think I have some Permatex silver anti-seize but don't know if it's good for the marine environment. I fought the jet pump disassembly on these two skis I have, not going through that again. But I take care of my stuff, do the maintenance on them.



    I think I am understanding this a bit better. If you don't mind posting some more pics when you do the modification I would appreciate it!

    it’s from loctite and is called marine anti-seize. There are many finite details when it comes to any sort of thread treatment and being able to set proper torque values but in a nutshell what works best for me is anti-seize. I also remove and inspect my pump about every 20 hrs or so. If torques correctly, no thread locker will ever be needed and will only agrávate you when you go to remove it. Molybendum grease is frequently used to help achieve proper torque values as well for certain fasteners. Think about main bolts and rod bolts also. They are always running soaked in oil with no loctite but if torqued properly they do not fail or loosen up.

    Here is a link to what impros does with the 250 shafts: https://impros.com/store/pump-handli...ump-shaft.html

    look closely are both picture and you’ll see what they are doing. The same principle applies for some 15f pumps.


  3. #13
    ow im not saying you must use lock tight i do i like the safety cushion, just my idea .not for every one and if any of use lock tight just a little heat will let it loose .

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