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  1. #21
    casey67's Avatar
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    The cross head screws (phillips) hold the coils to the mounting plate-wires will also be in there also.
    The plate mounting screws are what need to be removed. At some point Polaris switched from phillips to allen screws.
    Should only be 3. located really close to the coils,all 3 pretty much between the coils.

    I recall a routing bracket held on by allen screw,but think that was newer model.


    Chevy/GMC tend to use parts for a long time and across many models. Alternators became very strong-therefore expensive.
    Have you looked at Rockauto.com ? US prices are ridiculous low (comparatively) -not sure about over seas shipping cost.

  2. #22

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    Thanks for your help so far, I managed to remove the three allen bolts but the stator is still firmly fixed in place, so far removed four phillips head screws and three allen bolts.

    In case I'm being stupid, one of the allen bolts was located near to the starter side of the stator at approximately4 o'clock, the next one was at about 6 o'clock and the last one was at about 10 o'clock. I tried taking a photo but it just came out too blurry to post.

    As for my american motors, yes I have used rockauto a fair amount, postage can be high at times but usually it is still cheaper than getting stuff from outlets over here. I do have to make sure that all the parts come from the same warehouse as that really buggers up the postage

  3. #23
    casey67's Avatar
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    This add shows the mounting holes nicely. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-SLH...IAAOSwK21e8sOp

    Possible the mounting plate is rusted in place-there is a small edge were it sits, it will balance in place,but I have not seen any be held firmly in place.

    I for got to mention that with the stator removeed the wires can be checked closely for any bare spots or damage. I am leaning towards that possibility.

  4. #24

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    Well, the link you posted confirmed that I had actually removed all the securing allen bolts so I got a small pry bar in there and out it popped.

    As suspected it has been in water for a while, or certainly some of it has. Also looks like someone tried to "clean" it a little by use of wet and dry paper or similar but didn't do a very good job.





    I did some quick checks and now the readings are:
    Black wire to stator base plate 00.1 ohms
    Black to Purple wire 0.288K ohms
    Black to Grey wire 85.7 ohms
    Black to Brown wire 4.06m ohms
    Black to Red wire 0 ohms
    Black to Green wire 9.98k ohms
    Black to Re/Purple wire 0 ohms

    So, without doing anything the readings have altered. I removed the protective outer sheathing of the wires and none of them show any signs of chaffing or cuts and nothing looks burnt. If my understanding of the readings is correct then I doubt just cleaning everything up will solve the issue. I have still not found anywhere to repair it but have one more place to try. If that turns out to be a no, then I will have to look at my options.
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  5. #25

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    Just as an update, the last remaining place was unable to repair the stator because it is fully sealed on the back side of it. This now means that my only options are, try to locate a good used stator that exactly matches the one I have, break the craft up, or sell it on. None are preferred options as who knows what secondhand units will be like and there are never any guarantees with them and to break it up just seems wrong as it is a nice complete craft, selling it on may not reap the money I have already spent on it, given that I know roughly what it needs and anyone else will/should do their homework and realise that the bits will cost a load more ontop of the cost of the craft.
    Anyway, thanks to this site I know a lot more about my craft and as I said in an earlier post I bought two craft both needing repairs so I may well be posting about a seadoo in the near future, but a big thanks to you all for trying to help me out.

  6. #26

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    OK, so I have been looking for a stator, I noticed that there are some new ones on the market for around $150 plus shipping, however most state a part number 2873022

    but not all of them, Ones I have seen photo's of that show the part number show it on the edge of the stator mounting base, sort of printed on. My one has numbers cast in PLUS numbers stamped in as well.
    My one has 55 (cast in) followed by 2 (stamped in) followed by 01-54 and either 1or l or I (all cast in) and finally 17 (stamped in). Is this the part number and do I need to get an exact match?
    I saw a second hand unit on evilbay.com complete with flywheel and cover but the guy said there were no part numbers on it and as it would have cost over $300 by the time I got it here I wasn't prepared to take the chance.

    I take it that the part number above in large font is not suitable for my one.

    I keep saying it has to go but then have second thoughts and think just maybe spend a bit more time and effort on it.


  7. #27
    casey67's Avatar
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    the 2873022 # is for THE update kit- stator CDI and 2 cyl coil w/plug wires. Update is GEN3 stator and CDI.Everything needs to be replaced together/only works with Gen3 components. Stator should have 4010402 stator part #. Gen 3 stator can be identified visually- it has 3 stator fingers that are bare metal. No wire wound on them.
    .

    The GEN1 stator is part # 4060176. It has ALL stator fingers wound with wire.
    Place in Michigan on US e-bay showed a new one for $225, I guess that is better then the $600 update.

    The Polaris # is printed on edge of stator plate and does wear off, wash off with chemical cleaners.
    The weird #'s moulded/stamped into stator are PVL #'s (maker of the ignition parts for Polaris) and only make sense to PVL. PVL is in Germany,maybe you would have luck searching the PVL # on your side of the pond.

  8. #28

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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-WAT...IAAOSwTMdaj0UJ

    This is where I got the number from, so is this compatible? I now see the difference with the generation 3 stators so that is easy, but if there are two versions before that and the part numbers are no longer visible I assume I could end up with an updated one that still would not work.

  9. #29
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stilltrying View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-WAT...IAAOSwTMdaj0UJ

    This is where I got the number from, so is this compatible? I now see the difference with the generation 3 stators so that is easy, but if there are two versions before that and the part numbers are no longer visible I assume I could end up with an updated one that still would not work.
    Honestly I don't know what the Gen2 is. IIRC it was a change in CDI.
    As far as I know/all I have ever worked with, there are only 2 versions. Old style is old style and only works with Gen1 stuff.

    The link you have is the Gen1 stator. Seller is confused on part #. This site ;http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp
    only lists the update kit,as soon as the kit was available-literally stopped selling GEN1,stopped listing part # for GEN1 components. I had to look through an old parts list to find the correct part #.

    The CDI part #'s are accurate.
    As long as you have the 4060148 CDI, you need the Gen1 stator 4060176..

    Most of the incorrectly listed stator part #'s/update kit I saw on e-bay were the Chinese made Gen3 stators.
    They came in late to the party and never copied the GEN1.

    This is a big power sports dealer, I can see them having New Old Stock. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-New...MAAOSw-B9ejmU~

    To avoid confusion, I would ask for a picture of the actual stator.

  10. #30

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    Well that sorts things out, I was a bit confused with gen 1 and then suddenly gen3, I looked at the previous images and can clearly tell the difference so at least I now know what to go for and as you say that particular seller has either assumed or doesn't know what he has.
    I have sent a message to the company in Michigan to try to get a photo as well as to ask if they will post to the UK so we will wait and see what they have to say. At that price it would be foolish not to buy that rather than a secondhand one at only $40-$50 less that may not be in great condition.
    I will keep you posted.

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