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  1. #1

    Arrow 1996 SL900, new to forum

    New to forum. Been researching this topic for awhile.

    Picked up a 1996 sl900 in late fall no spark but excellent condition. Has non updated stator and cdi and just ordered it.

    Has tank out and flywheel cover off.

    There was some oil in there also so guessing oil pump is leaking from somewhere. Not sure what to do there.

    At this point trying to get flywheel off. Seems the puller I have should work but do I need to remove the oil pump drive key 1st or does that come off as part of the flywheel?

    Also what do I need to know about installing the new stator? Timing etc?

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97491

  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    Welcome to GreenHulk.

    The oil pump drive is part of the flywheel retaining nut. Yes that large nut needs to be removed before using the puller on the flywheel.

    Never seen the oil pump leak into the cover. The oil usually comes from the front crank seal. It is pressed into the back, from the back of the stator housing. With the stator out, now would be the time to replace the crank seal.

    You need to check the timing whenever you change CDI. The timing is adjusted by the 2 screws on front of flywheel.
    Make sure they are able to come loose one at a time. If all is well and all things equal you should not have to change timing, but it does need to be checked.


  3. #3
    Hey casey67. Thanks for the info. So I need to hold the flywheel and throw a wrench on that hex and back it out? How do I check the timing? Cold set it with dual indicator TDC? How would you even do it with a timing light? Thought I saw a plug on top of flywheel housing? Is that what that's for? Looks hard to access to see anything though. Again thanks for your help. Just looking to bum around on this thing while we're out on our pontoon. Only paid $300 for it and it's basically in mint condition except condition only matters if it runs, right....

  4. #4
    savageman69's Avatar
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    stop messing around and pull the motor out much easier....use an impact to remove the fly wheel nut, get a universal jet ski flywheel puller an it comes off easy.

  5. #5
    I’m confused. Why would I pull the motor out or was that a joke? I’m not struggling with anything at this point. Was simply asking about the oil pump drive on the flywheel. I have a service manual but it didn’t even mention removing that which is why I asked. Throwing the puller on that didn’t make any sense to me.

  6. #6
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adellicson View Post
    Hey casey67. Thanks for the info. So I need to hold the flywheel and throw a wrench on that hex and back it out? How do I check the timing? Cold set it with dual indicator TDC? How would you even do it with a timing light? Thought I saw a plug on top of flywheel housing? Is that what that's for? Looks hard to access to see anything though. Again thanks for your help. Just looking to bum around on this thing while we're out on our pontoon. Only paid $300 for it and it's basically in mint condition except condition only matters if it runs, right....
    The nut should be around 100ft lbs. Using an impact works. Holding the flywheel could be tuff. Putting a rope in MAG (front) spark plug hole will stop engine from turning.

    Yeah checking running timing is hard, the marks are visible through the plug at top of stator housing. 96 models probably need to remove steering pod cover, drain tube if present.

    Static timing with a degree wheel is also doable if you have that equipment.
    Last edited by K447; 06-07-2020 at 08:30 PM.

  7. #7
    Casey67, don’t have a problem replacing the crank seal, but I’m not entirely convinced that’s where the oil came from. That would make more sense to me if it was a 4 stroke. Any oil in the crankcase on a 2 stroke is premixed with fuel. That would mean the fuel and oil is separating and the fuel is making it past the flywheel housing gasket and the oil is not. Suppose this is possible but think it’s more likely that the oil pump shaft seal in the pump is leaking. Just trying to talk this through more. Let me know what you think about my thought process here. Maybe I’m wrong.

  8. #8
    casey67's Avatar
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    I think it is always better to understand what you are dealing with,so I have no trouble discussing things.

    Oil/gas seperate easier when the gas evaporates. The bearings being lubed are directly behind the crank seal, with crankcase pressure it's more likely to leak past the seal then a 4stroke with oil sump.

    Polaris oil pumps are rather bullet proof, but of course everything does eventually wear out.
    The flywheel and stator need to be removed to replace the front crank seal, so you are going to have most of the parts removed, will not have to do it twice.
    Pulling the oil pump later is really easy if that is the source.

  9. #9
    I see what your saying. I think I’m going to do the seal, put it back together, then crack it open again after a few rides to see if oil comes out of there again.

  10. #10
    Got the seal ordered. Can you explain how the timing adjustment works? The flywheel is still on there and I know it has to do with the 2 screws with the slots on the front of the flywheel. Do I just leave those tight when I pull the flywheel off? Put everything back together in same position, then confirm timing when it’s running? So if the timing needs adjustment I need to pull stator cover off, loosen the 2 screws, move flywheel slightly, tighten screws? Do I got that right?

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