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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    All Polaris Ficht stators are the same - five independent stator coils with ten wires, connected to a 12-pin Deutsch connector.
    OK, here is how both my stators and 2 others tested out.

    1-12 1.0 ohm
    2-11 1.0 ohm
    3-10 .8 ohm
    4-9 .8 ohm
    5-8 .8 ohm

    This is different than other info out there.
    Last edited by lrugland; 07-01-2020 at 10:40 PM.

  2. #32
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    You can't make accurate measurements of low resistance with a two wire ohmmeter, since the resistance of the leads is not negligible compared to the value being measured. Connect the two leads together and you'll see that it won't read zero ohms...

  3. #33
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lrugland View Post
    Thanks for the info. I checked mine quick and I do have a few wires that do not match that layout. I will be changing them tomorrow to see if I can correct this.

    PLUS, my stator and old stator do not test out the same ohms as in the info. I am over 1 ohm in both the 1-12 and 2-11. I have the 12 coil stator, does that matter?

    That is likely your issue. I don't know the exact theory as to how the EMM generates the 21/45 vdc supply. (HiPeRcO probably does.) However, I'm speculating the phasing of the different AC sections of the stator is critical, thus if the leads are reversed for a section, that would have a significant impact.

    As far as your resistant measurements, they are fine. What are you checking for is to be sure there is not an open in a section or significantly higher resistance indicating a damaged section or a poor connection.

    While you're there, as it is simple and does not cost anything, check for shorts between the sections. This would tell you, for example if there was physical damage or if something became hot and melted together.

    Be sure to apply red Loctite to the flywheel taper of the crankshaft before you install the flywheel. I also apply some to the woodruff key to assist with keeping it in place. Even though the securing nut is a nylock, I apply a drop to the threads as insurance, as well. The engine to cradle bolts are also known for loosening up. So I apply red Loctite to those, as well and if you have the locking tab plates, making sure the tabs are secured against the bolt head flat. I've never worked on a Genesis, so I'm not sure what they utilized. I've had Virages, with the lock plates, where they were not bent up correctly agaisnt the bolt head, allowing it to work loose. The MSX140 relies on Loctite.

  4. #34
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    ... the phasing of the different AC sections of the stator is critical ...
    Correct.

  5. #35
    2004 Polaris Genesis is RUNNING.

    Had two pairs flipped on the new aftermarket stator. Corrected those this morning and it started. Shut it down and it started again. Took it for a ride and all works well.

    Is there anyway to know for sure that the polarity is correct on all pairs?

    Thanks again to everyone that helped out with this.

    Now to find an LR-503 mod.

  6. #36
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lrugland View Post
    2004 Polaris Genesis is RUNNING.

    Had two pairs flipped on the new aftermarket stator. Corrected those this morning and it started. Shut it down and it started again. Took it for a ride and all works well.

    Is there anyway to know for sure that the polarity is correct on all pairs?

    Thanks again to everyone that helped out with this.

    Now to find an LR-503 mod.

    If it is running well and the MFD indicates a good charging voltage (13.8 vdc or so), I would say all is well and don't poke the sleeping bear. If you wanted to make an adapter to sandwich into the diagnostic plug loop and monitor the 21/45 vdc supply line (white/red wire) for 45 vdc while riding it, that would tell you. Anything else and you're pulling the stator again for a physical inspection.

  7. #37
    martincom's Avatar
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    Just in time for the Fourth. Heading into the 90F here today and muggy. The lakes will be like a freeway during rush hour starting tomorrow.

  8. #38

    Where are you sending your EMM off to - I think I need to do the same.

    Quote Originally Posted by lrugland View Post
    Bypassed the LR-503 mod and the craft started up the same, ran for 30-60 secs and shut off. So the LR-503 should be good. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected and fuel was just over 20# the entire time until is shut down.

    I then jumped the brown wire to test the fuel pump and it works and pumps at 21# and stays constant.

    Any other ideas to try before I pull this EMM and send it off?

    Where are you sending your EMM off to - I think I need to do the same.

  9. #39
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urquie View Post
    ... sending your EMM ...
    For Ficht EMM Repairs, contact Lakeside Tech


    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=268057&p=2917494&viewfull=1#post2 917494


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