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  1. #1

    08 STX-15F won't crank

    Fairly new to the jetski thing but I have replaced the fuel pump and filter on my Kawi 08 STX-15F

    During today's cruise at mid-throttle it went very rough and smelled like fuel from the exhaust - my guess is maybe a bad plug

    Anyhow - I got it home and onto the ramp and had to do some other stuff for about an hour - then came back to flush and diagnose it (I live on saltwater).

    But it won't crank now - the starter tries to turn then stops - does not even get full revolution

    I'm not sure if the 2 things are even related. First post here so I did search a bit before I decided to post - any help appreciated.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Sounds like you might have an injector that's stuck open.

    Remove the coil wires to prevent sparks, remove the spark plugs, cover the engine with an old towel, then crank it. You may see a geyser of gas being pumped out of a flooded cylinder. If so, check that injector.

    Do not overtighten the spark plugs when you re-install them!

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  4. #3
    awesome thanks - I did throw a batter charger on there but it doesn't appear to be electrical - just trying to eliminate potential issues

  5. #4
    Steve - thanks, looks like that is it - #1 is the issue
    I am a newbie here, is there a video or a guide somewhere on the injectors?

    I am guessing access is that rectangular cover on the head cover?
    off to google some answers but appreciate any tips you have

    one other quick question - supposing I can't get this resolved quickly, I do need to flush the ski - can I crank it to clear the cylinder then close it up quick and get it started long enough to flush? that's salt water in there.

  6. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    Sure, clear the cylinder, put the plug back in, and start it up.

    You said you were pretty new to JetSkis, you do know the proper flushing procedure, right? Start the engine, THEN turn on the water. Turn off the water, THEN turn off the engine.

    No injector guide that I'm aware of, a service manual is helpful. You can check the injector coil for continuity with an ohmmeter. Unplug the electrical connector, put the ohmmeter across the 2 pins. Should read 0. It's not hard to pull the injectors. There is a silver fuel rail on top of the right side of the engine. Remove the two bolts that hold that on. If I remember correctly, the injectors all come out when you pull off the fuel rail. There are rubber grommets in the cylinder head end and O-rings on the fuel rail end. It's a good idea to replace them, but you can probably get by for test purposes to re-use them. You may have to tug a little bit to get the injector off of the rail.

    I had a bunch of injectors on a couple of old 'Skis that I was able to clean up by running lacquer thinner through them. Sounds like yours is stuck open, whereas mine were stuck closed. I would put a short piece of hose on each end, plug off one hose, then fill the other with lacquer thinner or fuel injector cleaner and stand it on end so the solvent fills it and stays in it for an hour or so. Then, rig up a couple of wires to clip onto the connector on the injector and touch them BRIEFLY to a 12 v battery. The injectors operate at 5 volts or so. Applying 12 volts for very long will burn them out. Just touching them to the battery for an instant worked on mine. There is a procedure in the book that tells you to rig up a light bulb with the correct resistance in series with the injector, which I did, but I had one or two that wouldn't clear up. Hitting them with 12 volts did the trick. You should be able to hear and feel the injector moving. If not, either it's still stuck, or the coil is burned out.

  7. #6
    Awesome guidance Steve - I did find a good video of how to flush online so I a following the procedure as you describe (start, on, off, stop) the video reccommended a light rev at the end.

    Looks like just 2-3 bolts holding the rail in place so I should be able to get at it easily. I'd bet there may be a flake of rust that fouled the injector. The guy I bought it off of had run it with a completely corroded fuel pump and filter - I pumped out all the gas and replaced those parts, flushed the rail, but maybe something snuck past me.

    thanks again!

  8. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    That model has two fuel filters, the sock on the pump, and an inline filter (P/N 49019-3721).

    Kawasaki doesn't sell the sock filters, but you can get them here: https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23908...9040-0748.html


  9. #8
    that's very cool - I did not know they were sold seperately
    my whole pump assembly was corroded into a block and the sock was disintegrated so I just replaced the whole assembly

    its running now but rough - so I got it flushed - and a new injector is on order

    question - I saw someone on here say "flush and fog" - what is fog? The Kawi dealer said towel off the engine and lightly spray some WD40 on it after flush
    is that "fog?"

  10. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    If the pump was that bad, you probably need to replace the inline filter, too.

    'Flush & fog' typically refers to winterizing, or post-ride servicing of the supercharged 'Skis. Flushing refers to cleaning the cooling system by running fresh water and possibly SaltAway through it. This is extremely important for 'Skis used in saltwater. Fogging refers to spraying a special 'fogging oil' into the air intake to coat the internals of a 2-stroke engine prior to long-term storage. The supercharged models have a fogging port that allows you to spray oil directly into the supercharger inlet. Your dealer will have OEM branded fogging oil. WalMart has StaBil brand fogging oil. Your choice.

    Don't spray WD-40 on your engine. It turns gooey after a week or two. If you want an anti-corrosive spray, use Fluid Film, CRC Marine 6-56, BoeShield, or similar.

  11. #10
    more great advice!!! yeah I replaced the inline filter when I replaced the pump so I think I am good there!

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