Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1

    2000 slh bilge wire cut

    so i have purchased a 2000 slh with 37 hrs on it from original owner.. when i bought the battery was shot.. bought a new battery fired up everything worked except the bilge.. owner stated eveything worked and if somethimg broke it went to the dealer for repair.. so when i brought it to the lake with new battery it ran great but OVER Came on the mfd.. did some reaserch and guessing its the LR module. my question is.. why would the OR/blk wire have been cut on the bilge.. it was cut right above the pump itself.. not broken off cut.. when i splice the wire the bilge works. cleaned all the battery posts and connections with no help. thanks

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,212
    +1
    2,135
    Using a digital multi-meter, what is the measured DC voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running?

    Does it change much as the engine is revved to circa 4000RPM?

    While the engine is running what voltage does the MFD report?
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....nction-display


    Does the bilge pump run when the engine runs and stop when the engine stops?


  3. #3
    At idle the voltage is normal 12.6 or so and when you rev it up the voltage climbs it was up the 15volts or so when I shut it down..the bilge pump didnt work at all via the cut wire.. when i did wire it up it worked as it should..but in both situations the over came on the mfd

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,212
    +1
    2,135
    Quote Originally Posted by joeylenway View Post
    At idle the voltage is normal 12.6 or so and when you rev it up the voltage climbs it was up the 15volts or so when I shut it down..

    the bilge pump didnt work at all via the cut wire.. when i did wire it up it worked as it should..

    but in both situations the over came on the mfd
    I am trying to work out whether the LR module has failed. Right now I am getting the feeling that it needs to be replaced.

    Not sure what you are telling us with the bilge pump not working via a cut wire? How does anything work when the wire is cut?

    15 volts or so is not excessively high, depends on the accuracy of the meter being used. 16 volts is definitely way too high.

    The MFD itself may need to be re-calibrated for voltage measuring. You can find info on MFD voltage calibration via my signature link, in the MFD section. The MFD OVER (voltage) warning depends on the MFD voltage calibration being correct. Sometimes the MFD can lose calibration and warn when in fact the actual battery charging voltage is within normal range.

  5. #5
    sorry.. i know the bilge wont work with the cut wire.. i was just curious if there was a reason why someone would have cut the wire and just left it. and would that affect the OVER situation

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,212
    +1
    2,135
    Quote Originally Posted by joeylenway View Post
    sorry.. i know the bilge wont work with the cut wire.. i was just curious if there was a reason why someone would have cut the wire and just left it.

    and would that affect the OVER situation
    The LR module controls the bilge pump via the Orange wire. If the LR module was failing it may have caused the bilge pump to run all the time, even when the engine was not running. *

    Hence the cut wire to (presumably) stop the bilge pump from running and draining the battery when the engine was off.

    Failed LR ‘voltage regulator’ module can cause the battery to not charge at all (voltage stays below 13.5 volts with engine running) OR a failed LR can cause the battery to charge at excessively high voltages (well above 15.0) when the engine revs up.

    Knowing the actual accurate voltages using a decent multi-meter helps to diagnose what is going on.

    With a well charged battery
    the voltage at the battery (measured with a good meter) should be at least 13.5 volts. And no more than maybe 15.0 volts at the high end, regardless of how much the engine is revved.

    Typical LR voltage regulation delivers around 14.5 volts when all is working properly. Across a wide range of engine RPM.


    * If someone has mis-wired the electrical box, moving the Orange and Red/Purple wires around, that can also force the bilge pump to run all the time.

    There is a service bulletin that outlines a specific wiring change (involving Orange and Red/Purple wires) to correct a specific no-warm-restart condition. Sometimes people get confused and make the wiring change incorrectly. That can cause the bilge pump to run all the time.

    Which is why it is recommended to carefully check every wire in the electrical box and what color marked terminal it is actually connected to.

  7. #7
    Thanks.. I went threw the box and nothing has been changed. I will get a new module and try that if I can find one.. will the ones they sell on ebay work? Or do I need to find a genuine polaris one and where

  8. #8
    One more thing.. I am going to go riding and in another thread you said to just unhook the regulator and yellow wire to the mfd.. when I unhook the yellow wire it wont turn over??Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screenshot_20200529-125602_Chrome.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	52.2 KB 
ID:	462403

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    42,212
    +1
    2,135
    Quote Originally Posted by joeylenway View Post
    Thanks.. I went threw the box and nothing has been changed.

    I will get a new module and try that if I can find one.. will the ones they sell on ebay work? Or do I need to find a genuine polaris one and where
    Do the LR bypass tests. The ski is testable and rideable with the LR module bypassed. For short periods of time.

    No battery charging (potentially) with a bad or bypassed LR module.

    With a strong healthy battery you can run the engine for quite a while, even without battery charge working.

  10. #10
    Yellow wire?? See above thread

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 99 Polaris SLX 1050 - Cut Black Wire...
    By 17polaris570 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-20-2019, 08:06 AM
  2. Has anyone cut off the Bilge Siphon tube?
    By zapufast in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-08-2016, 11:21 PM
  3. 2000 SLH v's 2001 SLH (prop and carb changes)
    By spannerspencer in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-02-2012, 09:58 PM
  4. don't cut the blue wire...
    By madtown_chris in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-02-2009, 12:05 PM
  5. Cut brown wire?
    By rcngmoto in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-21-2008, 02:24 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •