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  1. #1
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    Question Stx 1100 di running hot

    Hello, I have a 2000 stx 1100 di. I bought it last year not running, I ended up getting it running but the display is damaged and cannot make out what it is says. Long story short the middle cylinder connecting rod broke while I was riding. made a nasty hole in both crankcases and tore that cylinder up. The emm was good so I purchased a parts ski with a good engine, first tried the emm/injectors on the parts ski. This ski ran like a beast but was leaking water into the hull very fast through the driveshaft carrier fitting. I took all that apart and found a chunk of fiberglass missing from the top of the hole where the aluminum plate sits on. I tried to sand and re-fiberglass the hole then reseal it back to the hull with 5200.(as seen on another post) I was unsuccessful this time.
    So today I took the engine, computer all the pieces in-between and put them into the original ski. The problem I am having not is the water coming out of the pisser is very hot which could be the reason of the last engine failure. Does anyone know why this is and how I can fix it. I cleaned out the water passages on the stator cover real good while I was doing the oil pump bearing drive.i blew compressed air through every hose/ fitting. I am lost and in need of some advice, I would really hate to go through two engines for something I know I can fix. Also if anyone knows how to take the display out so I can swap it with the parts ski that would be much appreciated also. This is my first experience with a jetski but am mechanically inclined with a repair manual. Thank you in advance,
    Chris

  2. #2

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    For the hot water condition from the bleed fitting start at the jet pump and remove the cooling hose and inspect the passage/hose. Use compressed air to purge the pump side. If okay, move forward to the hoses connected to the tee reducer fitting under the exhaust manifold. This reducer is ~ 1/2" in, 3/8" out. Debris is typically found here. It's difficult to access so bloody knuckles are expected. Use a flashlight and inspection mirror.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kawachris View Post
    Hello, I have a 2000 stx 1100 di. I bought it last year not running, I ended up getting it running but the display is damaged and cannot make out what it is says. Long story short the middle cylinder connecting rod broke while I was riding. made a nasty hole in both crankcases and tore that cylinder up. The emm was good so I purchased a parts ski with a good engine, first tried the emm/injectors on the parts ski. This ski ran like a beast but was leaking water into the hull very fast through the driveshaft carrier fitting. I took all that apart and found a chunk of fiberglass missing from the top of the hole where the aluminum plate sits on. I tried to sand and re-fiberglass the hole then reseal it back to the hull with 5200.(as seen on another post) I was unsuccessful this time.
    So today I took the engine, computer all the pieces in-between and put them into the original ski. The problem I am having not is the water coming out of the pisser is very hot which could be the reason of the last engine failure. Does anyone know why this is and how I can fix it. I cleaned out the water passages on the stator cover real good while I was doing the oil pump bearing drive.i blew compressed air through every hose/ fitting. I am lost and in need of some advice, I would really hate to go through two engines for something I know I can fix. Also if anyone knows how to take the display out so I can swap it with the parts ski that would be much appreciated also. This is my first experience with a jetski but am mechanically inclined with a repair manual. Thank you in advance,
    Chris

  3. #3

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    The water coming from the pisser comes from the exhaust header pipe after going thru the block. It's usually hot when the engine is hot. As long as it's a good flow, you should be OK. If you have steam blowing out the pisser, there's a problem.

    But as mentioned by Glen, debris in the cooling system is common. The stator cover filling with sand/salt/debris is a known issue with these motors.

    As for the broken con-rod... more than likely it was caused by oil injection system failure. Unfortunately, you can't convert the DI motor to pre-mix.

  4. #4
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, I will get to the jet pump asap. The water was extremely hot coming from the pisser, burning my skin. The parts ski I mentioned ws not hot like that at all when running. I was thinking if it was necessary I would swap the jet pump from the parts ski. Probably won't do anything for me since the water was coming out steady. As for the oil injection issue was my first thought on the con-rod. This time I mixed about a quart of oil with my 5 gallons of gas for precautionary measure lol. Also I am going to tackle the display swap any info on that would be excellent.


  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    The rod failure was most likely caused by a piston coming apart. Pieces get jammed between the piston and head, or pieces of the skirt fall into the crankcase and jam things up.

    Make sure the water flow to the ECM is good. There is a mod for this (search for it, somebody brought it up about 2-3 weeks ago).

    While you're doing it, check the bearings on the oil pump drive coupling. They probably need replacement.

  6. #6
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve I just replaced the bearings to be sure. After the first engine failure I decided to not mess around. I kept the old oil lines for now they seem good still but they do not have the check valve in the line. Since I had the main oil line off the pump I have been running a 50:1 gas oil mix. I am wondering how long I should be running the oil/gas mix. Another question the guy before me took the check valve out of the vent tube for the gas tank and replaced it with a regular see through fuel filter. This allows air to flow in both directions, is there a part number for the check valve or can I just throw any check valve in there.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Did you bleed the air from the the oil pump? There is a bleeder screw on it for that purpose.

    I think some of the 1100 DIs had check valves in the oil injection fittings that are pressed into the intake manifold. It seems to me that the design changed at one point.

    You only need to run pre-mix during break-in or until you get the bubbles out of the lines.

    To service the display, you have to remove the throttle & start/kill button assemblies, the pad from the handlebars, then the handlebars. After that, remove the reverse lever (there is a set screw that holds on the cap, then a nut underneath the cap). Remove the screws holding on the cowl. You'll have to remove the front storage compartment to access the screws that hold the air intake tube. After you get the cowl loosened up, you can access the display. Of course, there are wire bundles, vent hose, throttle cable, etc. that you have to work around.

    Yes, you need the check valve in your vent line.

  8. #8
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    So I changed the display screen out, it went smoothly. Also did bleed the oil pump when I was installing engine. I was just worried about engine failure, So I added oil to feel better about it. Have only ran it for about 2 hours, but after this tank of mix I should be okay with just gas in the tank? appreciate all the help I will look for the vent tube check valve online.

  9. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    If you know that it's pumping oil, you can delete the pre-mix.

    Put a mark on the oil tank, then run a tank of gas through it. Measure how much oil it take to bring the level up to the mark and measure the amount of gas used. Should be about 50:1 ratio.

  10. #10
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    I will try today this since it is 82° here in New Hampshire

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