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  1. #1

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    How long on hose oil change

    Recommendations oF how long to run the ski on the hose before changing the oil?

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    What model and year?

    You want to warm the oil before extracting the oil?

    Take it for a ride on the water, then change the oil soon afterwards.

    On the trailer with a garden hose flush you only get a couple of minutes running time before there is some risk of overheating the driveshaft seals in the mid-wall bearing housing. *
    The flush water does not cool that seal area.

    I typically do not warm the engine before oil change. My MityVac 7200 might flow the 'cold' a little more slowly, but it still works just fine.


    * There is a grease fitting on the mid-wall bearing housing. Periodic greasing is recommended.

  3. #3

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    2016 FZS

  4. #4

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    SVHO are easier to extract than SHO due to oil pan design. 5 min should get the oil
    warmed enough to flow as long as it’s not so cold outside. Doing it in winter run ski longer or for 5 min then wait a little and run another 5 minutes or
    so.

    if you can do it after a ride then you can do it up to an hour or so after ride.

  5. #5
    speeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post

    On the trailer with a garden hose flush you only get a couple of minutes running time before there is some risk of overheating the driveshaft seals in the mid-wall bearing housing. *
    The flush water does not cool that seal area.
    why do you think that bearing housing seals can overheat, or that it needs to be cooled? it doesn't appear that there is any discernible amount of water circulation in that area aside from the fact that it's under water.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by speeder View Post
    why do you think that bearing housing seals can overheat, or that it needs to be cooled? it doesn't appear that there is any discernible amount of water circulation in that area aside from the fact that it's under water.
    That was my thought...its not a seadoo where this is a serious concern.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeder View Post
    why do you think that bearing housing seals can overheat, or that it needs to be cooled?

    it doesn't appear that there is any discernible amount of water circulation in that area aside from the fact that it's under water.
    Rubber seal lips lightly pressing against a spinning metal shaft. There will be some amount of friction and therefore heat. There is supposed to be grease inside the housing but the factory fill seems to often be 'not very much grease'.

    IIRC it is a double seal arrangement so the rearmost seal is not lubricated by the grease as easily as the inner/forward seal.



    My previous watercraft were a different brand but had a broadly similar sealing method with double seals on the driveshaft. Several minutes of run time on land was enough to heat the seal lips and risk melting/deform the sealing edges. In the water, could ride all day. On land, five minutes running 'dry' was 'a long time'.
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