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  1. #1
    ValleyRacer2's Avatar
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    '96 Upgraded Ignition - Spark stops off between cylinders - NEED AN EXPERT!

    I have never experienced anything like this in my decades of motor work. '96 SLTX 1050, upgraded to late model ignition (Martos), Compression 125+, Fuel delivery good, Won't even pop. What the heck does putting a plug in a hole have to to with which cylinder will have spark? Check out the pics!


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  2. #2
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    When you say upgraded to late model ignition, what parts did you get exactly?...part numbers?


  3. #3
    ValleyRacer2's Avatar
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    The "kit" was put together from Martos. Reprogrammed to run on my rig.
    >Used stator 4010403
    >Used CDI 4010447

    Small black battery wire not in use, no locktite on stator mounting bolts, main ground wire in good contact on block, battery 12v while cranking.

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    My first impression for the no spark was low cranking voltage. With one plug removed cranking voltage will rise enough to spark.
    The CDI needs minimum 10.6v to spark while cranking. Leave a meter attached to red/pur and blk going into CDI to diagnose whats going on.

    How spark jumps around makes me question coil ground-ground also connects inside of coil assembly.
    I would first check plug wire connections. Each end of plug wire threads onto a stud-at coil and plug boot. Trim wire about 1/4 inch.

  5. #5
    ValleyRacer2's Avatar
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    Note: Cut all cap wires back 1/4"

    Test 1 - multimeter connected to ebox R/P and black

    Battery: A
    Plugs: Removed
    Standing volts: 12.89
    Cranking volts: 10.8
    Spark: Yes

    Battery: A
    Plugs: In
    Standing volts: 12.91
    Cranking volts: 9.8
    Spark: No

    Test 2 - multimeter connected to ebox R/P and black

    Battery: B
    Plugs: Removed
    Standing volts: 12.57
    Cranking volts: 10.9
    Spark: Yes

    Battery: B
    Plugs: In
    Standing volts: 12.58
    Cranking volts: 10.4
    Spark: No / or very little

    Possible issue: Starter pulling too much voltage???

  6. #6
    Derwood98's Avatar
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    Have you checked the grounds? Just for piece of mind, I would check the negative terminal from he battery to the motor mount. Take it off, clean it up with sand paper and/or a wire brush. I would check the ground feeding the electrical box too. Happened to me and it was a very frustrating diagnostic.

  7. #7
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    1st question, what was going on that caused you to get an update kit? 2nd, so Martos reprogrammed the CDI for you and gave you a used Stator? I would tend to question those parts but sounds like there was an issue before hand, otherwise you wouldn't have needed an update kit. I agree with Casey67 there's a voltage issue and like Derwood98 said make sure you have good metal to metal contact on every wire connection...these boats are getting old.

  8. #8
    ValleyRacer2's Avatar
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    The ground (small black wire no longer in use) has been inspected and I feel it is 100%. The original ignition wouldn't shut off, even with the blk/Y of the CDI being directly grounded. All thought it was the CDI internal kill circuit failure. Figured I would upgrade at the same time.

  9. #9
    casey67's Avatar
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    With battery disconnected, test ohms from ground stud, cdi ground and engine.

    I'd like to know what amperage the battery is capable of. Most auto parts stores test batteries for free.

  10. #10
    ValleyRacer2's Avatar
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    Multimeter set to 200 scale - probe to probe .02

    Battery disconnected
    1) Battery cable negative end to motor block stud =.02
    2) Block stud to CDI eyelet bolt (in ebox) =.02
    3) Motor to CDI eyelet bolt (in ebox) = .02

    Battery A was a car battery
    Battery B brand new, fully charged SXLT battery

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