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  1. #11
    Guys, talk sustained RPM, the speed sensor is a joke, especially in the chop.
    Hell, try left and then a right turn and then watch what the speed shows during one and the other turn - the difference will be 6+kph from that alone.

    I've seen even 94 kph on my slightly tuned LX, but the RPM never lies, it's bang on 8000 regardless if the speedo shows 85, 88 or 94.
    And stock it was around 7500, and again the speedo was showing up to 87 kph stock.

    If you want the speedo to be accurate get a Candoo, so you have true GPS speed.


  2. #12
    steve45's Avatar
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    I'm not so worried about the speedo, more concerned about the odometer when we go cruising. I've had a lot of trouble with the paddlewheel in the rideplate on the 2013. It spins freely, but frequently gets stuck in the water.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by prj View Post
    Guys, talk sustained RPM, the speed sensor is a joke, especially in the chop.
    Hell, try left and then a right turn and then watch what the speed shows during one and the other turn - the difference will be 6+kph from that alone.

    I've seen even 94 kph on my slightly tuned LX, but the RPM never lies, it's bang on 8000 regardless if the speedo shows 85, 88 or 94.
    And stock it was around 7500, and again the speedo was showing up to 87 kph stock.

    If you want the speedo to be accurate get a Candoo, so you have true GPS speed.
    Going to the lake this weekend I will look at the revs is there a peak hold for that ? Or just the speed

  4. #14
    I don't remember to be honest, haven't checked on mine in a while.
    But peak hold on revs is less useful than you'd think - if you hit some chop and the prop catches some air the revs will shoot up.

    Just look at it while flooring it. You'll get the rough idea +/- 100 rpm.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by prj View Post
    I don't remember to be honest, haven't checked on mine in a while.
    But peak hold on revs is less useful than you'd think - if you hit some chop and the prop catches some air the revs will shoot up.

    Just look at it while flooring it. You'll get the rough idea +/- 100 rpm.
    I think it was 7630 when I went out on Saturday

  6. #16
    So for a stock ski that's very good.
    The stock ECU mapping limits the effective WOT RPM to 7600-ish, because after that the timing takes a nose dive, so it stops making power.

    Unless your pump has obvious damage your ski is running as it should.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by prj View Post
    So for a stock ski that's very good.
    The stock ECU mapping limits the effective WOT RPM to 7600-ish, because after that the timing takes a nose dive, so it stops making power.

    Unless your pump has obvious damage your ski is running as it should.
    Good to know. Thanks. Now I just need to find the source of the buzzing vibration it drives me crazy.

  8. #18
    Does it do it only on low RPM? Or at all revs?
    At low RPM the waterbox can rattle around a bit. These are pretty noisy machines. Check that the strap is tight.

    Btw, I checked my top speed for giggles, and it shows 98 km/h @ 8010 rpm.
    The RPM is about right, but that speed - forget it.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by prj View Post
    Does it do it only on low RPM? Or at all revs?
    At low RPM the waterbox can rattle around a bit. These are pretty noisy machines. Check that the strap is tight.

    Btw, I checked my top speed for giggles, and it shows 98 km/h @ 8010 rpm.
    The RPM is about right, but that speed - forget it.
    What mods did you do to get the extra revs ?

  10. #20
    I fitted a K&N air filter (K&N part RU-2940) instead of the airbox.
    For that I manufactured a small aluminum piece, so that I could keep the PCV directed into the intake and also to move the filter away from the exhaust manifold a little towards the back.
    And then I modified my ECU map, so that the ECU actually lets the engine rev higher (and a bunch of other things too). I wouldn't run it with less than 98 RON / 93 AKI octane fuel though, it will probably damage the engine eventually on WOT with crap fuel.
    Have 40 hours now on the modifications, a good few hours of holding the throttle flat out, everything seems fine.

    The ECU is massively de-tuned/limited from factory, probably to deal with really low octane fuel, ignition falls off sharply after 7600 rpm as well, so even if you improve the engine breathing you will not gain much, because the ECU is basically fighting you at this point.
    A whole other point is the part throttle throttle response, where they numbed it a lot, at the expense of a significant chunk of fuel economy. This is also why when you're lifting the throttle from WOT on these it comes off power very abruptly and the front digs in. Fixing the ignition maps to be more similar to the supercharged ski's (and make them look like a proper map for an ICE) results in much more linear throttle behavior when going off the throttle, so it's not as ON/OFF anymore. As well as the fuel economy gets massively better. This is anecdotal, but I'd say at least 15% when you are cruising in the 30-40 mph zone.

    Here's what the physical modification looks like:


    If you want the same mods - I can fab up another filter adapter, ECU needs to be shipped though.
    There are a bunch of companies offering tuning for these - I don't know how good or bad. I tune Automotive EFI engines for a living and own all the tools needed, so for me there was absolutely no point to pay someone for a tune.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by prj; 06-06-2020 at 06:09 PM.

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