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  1. #1

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    SL 1050 rub rail

    I need to get the left side black rub rail off of my 1997 SL 1050 to repair a crack in the hull. I've looked for previous threads on it and couldn't seem to find anything. What would be the best way to go about this to go about this without damaging it?


  2. #2
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    This is not going to be fun or easy. Remove the rub rail circle shape plugs along the side...take it slow and easy or you will mare the plastic plug. There is a pop-rivet underneath that needs to be removed, best way is to cut the pop-rivet from the back side of the hull edge with a dremel drill or similar so the rivet can pull out. After that, I believe the rub rail is also double faced taped to the hull edge and it is not fun to get off...the tape is generally not reusable once pulled off. Be careful not to pull to hard on the rub rail or angle it as you remove it or you will get that whitish bend discoloration the bent plastic gets. Using a heat gun is a catch 22, it softens the glue on the tape but it also softens the rub rail plastic causing it to stretch and bend very easily. I would just use a regular screw driver and start at one end and slowly pry the rub rail off...this will take some time to do. Putting the rub rail back on is a pain if you try to retape it back on. The old tape needs to be removed from either the hull edge or the back of the rub rail which ever the tape decided to stay stuck to. Then you need to go find some very long pop rivets to replace the ones you removed. Good Luck!

  3. #3

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    Wow this doesn’t sound like any fun at all. The crack is only above the rub rail but kind of goes down behind it a little. I might only fix the part above it and not behind it. The crack doesn’t go below the rub rail line at all so I don’t think any large amounts of water would get in, plus this ski has a bilge pump. I will try to get some pictures up of the crack today and maybe someone has a better idea on how to fix it than I do. Thanks

  4. #4
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    Sounds like the crack is in the upper half which is the deck and not in the bottom section in the hull. The Deck and Hull are 2 separate parts that are glued/bonded together at the seam which is where the rub rail is located/attached. The pictures will help to determine the severity.

  5. #5

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    This is it. Don't want to scrape my foot on any of this nasty stuff.
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  6. #6
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    Ahhh yeah, that's worse than I was expecting. What happened?...looks like it got hit or run over by another boat/watercraft? Hard to tell but looks as though it's just the deck but that's going to let in a lot of water, especially the cracks in the footwell. I'm no fiberglass expert so I'm not sure how to go about fixing that. Someone else will need to chime in on what you should do. Good luck.

  7. #7

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    Yes another ski hit it from the previous owner. The engine is mint so I didn’t want to see it go to the dump especially knowing I could probably fix it. I’ve got woodworking experience, so I kind of applied the same to this. Don’t have any pictures right now but I will keep it updated. I sanded a larger area down to under the gel coat and laid new fiberglass mat and resin. It’s taking its sweet time curing right now, but I’m happy with how it turned out. Some sanding and paint and I think it’ll be just fine. Should be able to hit the lake this upcoming weekend. Only thing I’m worried about is that the color isn’t gonna match the rest of the side that still has the gel coat, but it doesn’t need to be the prettiest ski on the lake to go fast!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awolverton42 View Post
    ... another ski hit it ... I sanded a larger area down to under the gel coat and laid new fiberglass mat and resin.

    ... color isnít gonna match the rest of the side that still has the gel coat ...
    Is that hull material SMC or fibreglass?

    If that hull is SMC compound there are some specific requirements for doing a proper and lasting repair.

  9. #9
    savageman69's Avatar
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    its smc...ive had one repaired before the boat builder said its not easy to fix properly and have good lasting rigidity.

  10. #10

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    Not much I'm going to do about it now...

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