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  1. #1

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    2000 Polaris Virage TX won't start. Help!

    I bought it 5 days ago. Did not have it in the water, but the seller showed me that it started fine and sounded good running. Then, he did a compression test to show me on all 3 cylinders. All 3 showed 140. Aside from blue oil everywhere in the hull (I now know the cause and the fix) and a touchy battery, everything else looked good.

    I brought it home and just cleaned it up, got rid of the oil and charged the battery. Seemed to charge fine. I never attempted to restart it until today when I was able to take it to the water. With gas on, oil and gas topped up, I couldn't get it to start. I can hear the starter go, but it wouldn't start the machine. I tried with both choke on and off. No luck. The battery quickly faded, but could still work the starter. Soon I got low battery on the screen. Someone at the launch offered me a boost. I accepted, but this did not help nor change anything other than improved strength of the starter.

    When I brought it home, I put the battery back on the charger. I still cannot start it. I checked the water fuel separator. It was full. I emptied it as per the manual. No luck starting. When I try to start it and give it a little throttle, I can hear a different "whooping" sound. But it still won't start.

    I have very limited mechanical skills, but I'm willing to learn. Please be gentle and thorough if possible. I've read a few posts here and the information seems very good, but there is quite a gap between what is being said and what I am able to understand and do. For instance, I'm considering cleaning out the carbs, but all I can find is info on how to clean them when they are off the machine. How do I remove them?

    Looking forward to some ideas on what to try next. Thanks for reading.

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forum. Lets see if it's a gas issue. Take off the red cover on top of the carbs...be careful when taking off the cover as each bolt has a pipe sleeve spacer that might slide out the bottom side of the cover and fall into the carb...recommend engaging the choke before removal as it will prevent the sleeve from falling all the way down to the reeds.

    Once the cover is off, disengage the choke and pour just a bit of gas down each carb. Give it about 30 secs for the gas to start evaporating and push the start button...make sure the lanyard is clipped into the stop button...or it won't start (could this be the problem...lanyard wasn't clipped in place?)

    If the engine starts, then it's not getting gas right away when you try to start it...so more of a gas line or carb issue.

    If it still doesn't start, then you probably have an electrical issue which could be due to a number of things...then you will just have to try one thing at a time until you find the problem.

    There are a number of help posts located in the Tech Section.
    Last edited by K447; 05-17-2020 at 09:18 AM.

  3. #3
    savageman69's Avatar
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    and for the love of god dont boost it...great way to fry expensive cdis and stators....2 throw that crap battery out and buy a good one...if voltage drops below 10.6 while cranking it will never start, you can try till your blue in the face. Your going to need a solid battery these domestic polaris like good batteries

    Did the guy selling it to you turn the fuel off and you didnt turn it on?

    The water separator needs to be full..that is fuel, unless the red ring is floating in it that is the indication of water in the fuel....now thats empty its going to take a bit to crank and fill that.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    Welcome to the forum. Lets see if it's a gas issue. Take off the red cover on top of the carbs...be careful when taking off the cover as each bolt has a pipe sleeve spacer that might slide out the bottom side of the cover and fall into the carb...recommend engaging the chock before removal as it will prevent the sleeve from falling all the way down to the reeds. Once the cover is off, disengage the chock and pour just a bit of gas down each carb. Give it about 30 secs for the gas to start evaporating and push the start button...make sure the lanyard is clipped into the stop button...or it won't start (could this be the problem...lanyard wasn't clipped in place?) If the engine starts, then it's not getting gas right away when you try to start it...so more of a gas line or carb issue. If it still doesn't start, then you probably have an electrical issue which could be due to a number of things...then you will just have to try one thing at a time until you find the problem. There are a number of help posts located in the Tech Section.
    Thank you for speaking English!!! I understand everything you posted (I think). So I did what you said. Poured a bit of gas in each carb. It started on the first click. (I'm so relieved! Thank you so much for your help on this!) So if I understand correctly, it's either a gas line issue or a carb issue. Gas lines are black and look newish. Not the green gummed up one that I keep reading about here. Glad it's not an electrical issue. What do you suggest I do next? Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to remove carbs for cleaning? As I said earlier, I can only find info on cleaning/rebuilding carbs. Nothing about removal. Seems like it is something I should be doing anyway to avoid having engine problems. Correct? I would imagine that this would mean unplugging the gas line from the carbs which would confirm that there is gas flowing freely. So kill 2 birds??? Thoughts?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by savageman69 View Post
    and for the love of god dont boost it...great way to fry expensive cdis and stators....2 throw that crap battery out and buy a good one...if voltage drops below 10.6 while cranking it will never start, you can try till your blue in the face. Your going to need a solid battery these domestic polaris like good batteries

    Did the guy selling it to you turn the fuel off and you didnt turn it on?

    The water separator needs to be full..that is fuel, unless the red ring is floating in it that is the indication of water in the fuel....now thats empty its going to take a bit to crank and fill that.
    Noted on the boosting. Will not do that anymore.
    Buying battery today.
    I turned the fuel off. When I brought it home. At the water yesterday, when I first attempted to start it and failed on the first 2 tries, I remembered to turn fuel back on... I did, but as you now know, I doubt this was the problem because even with fuel on and boost, it wouldn't start.
    Water separator is full again. I now understand how it works. Thank you for clarifying it. I'm sure I read somewhere that if it is full, it needs to be emptied... Oh well! Now I know. Thanks again!

  6. #6
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    Hey...glad it started. However, before you do anything, do as savageman69 suggested and get a good fresh battery that is fully charged and then try starting it again. Polaris jet skis are kind of picky when it come to voltage while cracking in order to start. If it doesn't start right away again or at all, then we can start trouble shooting the gas issue. There are some things that can be tried before having to start taking off or apart the carbs...which is a little bit of work to do...a few gotcha things to watch out for. Did previous owner mention when the last time he used the ski before you bought it?...anything discussed about the carbs? Just to let you know, the 140psi compression is very good and is actually a little above the norm...did previous owner mention anything about putting on higher compression heads on the cylinders?...or had a top end done on the engine?
    Last edited by 32DegH2O; 05-17-2020 at 08:41 AM.


  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    Hey...glad it started. However, before you do anything, do as savageman69 suggested and get a good fresh battery that is fully charged and then try starting it again. Polaris jet skis are kind of picky when it come to voltage while cracking in order to start. If it doesn't start right away again or at all, then we can start trouble shooting the gas issue. There are some things that can be tried before having to start taking off or apart the carbs...which is a little bit of work to do...a few gotcha things to watch out for. Did previous owner mention when the last time he used the ski before you bought it?...anything discussed about the carbs? Just to let you know, the 140psi compression is very good and is actually a little above the norm...did previous owner mention anything about putting on higher compression heads on the cylinders?...or had a top end done on the engine?
    Ok. Will pick up the battery shortly. Nothing about higher compression heads or engine work. He said he last used it last year, but never had a problem. I now have my doubts because there is no way that he started it without the trick you showed me. He never said anything about that to me. I noticed when looking around the engine bay this morning that there is still one of those greyish/green hoses connected at the bottom. There rest look new.

  8. #8

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    Just read something else on here with someone saying that when he's looking at the carbs and pumps the throttle, it takes a while for fuel to come out the needles. So I thought I'd try this. When I pump, fuel comes out to the 2 front carbs, but not the 3rd. Could this be something meaningful?

  9. #9
    casey67's Avatar
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    Fuel off- cranking. Brought battery level too low to start.
    Emptying separator will cause extended crank time.

    Install fully charged good battery. Choke on- start. With carb cover off you should see fuel being pulled into carbs after a few seconds..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by veryfastracer View Post
    Just read something else on here with someone saying that when he's looking at the carbs and pumps the throttle, it takes a while for fuel to come out the needles. So I thought I'd try this. When I pump, fuel comes out to the 2 front carbs, but not the 3rd. Could this be something meaningful?

    It's possible but you are getting gas out of the other two...the third carb usually does get much anyway as it's the furthest from the pump. It could be just gas gunk build up from sitting during the off season...who know what gas was in it during that time. When you get the battery, pick up a product called Sea Foam and add it to your first tank of gas and put a few drops in the fuel separator. This will clean out the gas gunk or any water/moisture in the gas system as you ride. I assume the engine stays running after you are able to get it started? Don't run the engine for more than 30 secs on the trailer...don't want to over heat the engine.

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