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  1. #1

    300x 1st mods - what parts are still available?

    Well it's time to start modding this thing, and I figured I would get some input before I hit the checkout button.

    Current mods: none, bone stock 2013 300x.
    Goal: nothing crazy, I'd be happy with 73/74mph and it's my understanding that any more than that can be difficult anyway
    Riding type/conditions: mostly rec riding on the delaware river and some of the maryland rivers off of the chesapeake bay. It's common for us to go out for 4-5 hours at a time, 3 to 4 days a week. Most riding is cruising around 40-50 with some WOT runs mixed in(in other words, not a race ski and not holding it wide open all the time)

    So, what should I do? I was about to order a scom, but after a bunch of reading on here it looks like the candoo gps will have the same result as a scom and give me an accurate speedometer. Assuming that's the case I'll be ordering one of those.

    I also plan to do all of the free air mods and add the extra air intake tube opposite of the gas cap.

    I dont expect those 2 things alone to get me there. What else will it take? From my reading on here I'm under the impression the stock exhaust is fine, as is the stock grate. What about a ride plate(which one)? Intake? Impeller? Lucky13 cone?

    And are there any other "free" mods I should do besides the air ones? Like filling ride plate holes? Etc?
    Last edited by Adam4pt6; 05-12-2020 at 09:20 PM.

  2. #2
    Going through a lot of the old threads bring up some good recommendations but it seems like a lot of the brands or parts mentioned arent available anymore.

  3. #3
    ECU can be reflashed to remove the speed limiter. This will do the same as getting a Candoo GPS or SCOM.
    At the same time it is possible to somewhat advance the ignition timing, this will force you to always run 98 RON / 93 AKI gas though.

    This is by far the cheapest way to get some performance.

    If you can easily fill up 98 RON / 93 AKI then ecu reflash is probably what you want to do.
    A proper ECU reflash will also remove the traction control, and it is possible to make the midrange much more responsive.

  4. #4
    A reflash is a thought to do instead of the candoo for sure. The only thing holding me back is fuel. I can get 93 in land easily and that's what I run now, but if I end up in a pinch and need to gas up on the water the best I can find is 89 or 91 at a few places. I'm mostly curious about other stuff too, most of the parts suggested or mentioned in old threads dont seem to be available anymore.

  5. #5
    You should never run 89, no matter what. That ski does not have a knock sensor, and you can and will destroy the engine eventually.

    The single biggest boost will be getting rid of the speed limiter. Whether you use an external piggyback for that or reflash the ECU.
    If you want to run 91 then the timing should be left stock in the ECU, at that point it's probably easier to get a candoo than to send the ECU off.

    Other parts - I think most things you do for top speed will affect rough water handling/stability in one way or the other. Also, the bang for the buck is really bad there.

  6. #6
    I should have clarified. I ONLY run 93 in it, and if we do any long runs I have fuel(93) staged ahead of time. I dont intend to run 89 in it ever. However if an emergency comes up and I HAVE to grab fuel on the water, 89 is what's easily available(although a couple of places have 91). It isnt ever an intent to use it, and if I did I would keep it slow and lower RPM wise. More of an incase of emergency kind of thing. Not an intent at all.

    And yea from what I've read the trade off for more speed is less rough water capability. My wife rides an rxp 215, so we dont do a ton of rough water riding. We did end up in some 3-4ft chop at the opening to the chesapeake bay friday and the 300x handled it great, however I had to keep it slower anyway for her to keep up. I guess that's my long winded way of saying I'm ok with a little trade off for a little more speed.

    At the end of the day the goal would be 74-75 tops. I'm just not sure what parts that are available today would be the right/best choice. For example, alot of old threads mention r&d and Rivera ride plates...seems like the only one around now is the TBM, which I cant find any threads on here about. Same thing for intake grate, all I can find is the worx one, but I cant find much mention of it on here.

  7. #7
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Jun 2007
    Buy the Kspeed stage 1 kit, it will do everything your looking for and more.
    The Kspeed intake grate is also way better than the worx....or R&D offerings
    Last edited by sirbreaksalot; 05-18-2020 at 01:52 AM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by sirbreaksalot View Post
    But the Kspeed stage 1 kit it will do everything your looking for and more.
    The Kspeed intake grate is also way better than the worx....or R&D offerings
    Thanks for jumping in. I had looked at kspeed before but forgot about them for this post. That sounds like a good way to go. Shipping my ecu to Australia seems a little stressful. And I'm sure shipping costs both ways are going to be high, but if its worth it its worth it

  9. #9
    If your looking at a SCOM for your 300x the KSPEED SCOM is the way to go. I bought my 2016 310x with a Riva Scom and it always sent a F1 CODE, and would only hold 14lbs of boost for a few seconds then drop down to 12lbs. I had the Riva Scom taken out and the Kspeed Scom installed. With the Kspeed it holds 14lbs of boost, no F1 CODE. With the Riva Scom i would max at 69mph. With the Kspeed Im doing 71mph. Just my .02

  10. +1 by:

  11. #10
    Last edited by Chris288; 06-22-2020 at 06:04 PM.

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