Results 21 to 30 of 36
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05-08-2020, 11:53 AM #21
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05-08-2020, 01:47 PM #22
Here's the tunnel hole with Styrofoam removed. I think it was 4" hole saw as River Rat suggested. I used West System epoxy and carbon fiber. And yes the shit gets scary hot when pouring the tunnel. A little sloppy on the carbon fiber but it has done its job.
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+1 by:
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05-09-2020, 07:03 AM #23
Ok... I’m a bit confused, the doc that JT did on all three installs, 4” air, bilge and filter are on the 2008 RXT-X with the kit from here, it looks like everything clears on the intake with the stock IC (I had to buy a Riva Gen 3 because mine was trashed but it’s not that much bigger and goes in the stock location) all the parts are here now. IC and air intake. Are you saying that the 4” tube won’t fit with the stock intercooler?
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05-09-2020, 07:12 AM #24
Thanks Scotty!! Love the carbon fiber look! I am running up to West Marine this AM to grab the epoxy, not sure what they will have for fiberglass or carbon fiber mat, but I’ll figure that out when I get there, the pics helped out though, I was thinking it made sense to glass the whole tunnel, I don’t recall seeing any other pictures of that done, only over the hole that was cut.
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05-09-2020, 09:13 AM #25
Scuff the tunnel up a little with a heavy grit sanding disc enough to knock the shine and slick finish off of it so the epoxy will bond good. A lot easier to do this now with motor and everything else out of the way as you are doing. Let me know if you have any other questions. Glad to help.
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05-11-2020, 07:48 AM #26
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05-11-2020, 08:16 AM #27
Be careful pouring that G Flex. Too much at once & its going to get way too hot. Call West Systems & find out how much to mix & pour at one time, dont remember. If you feel tunnel getting hot wait until it cools some before pouring more. On the last pour put your first piece of cloth over top of hole & let it settle into the G Flex good & brush it out using the G Flex. Make sure the ski is level so the last pour levels out good. Let the G Flex cure for 24 hrs then re-sand it all, prep & go to work with the cloth & resin. When I was finished I went back after it cured & sanded everything again to smooth any rough edges, prepped & brushed one more light coat of resin out on everything. RR
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+1 by:
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05-11-2020, 10:49 AM #28
No, I said with the IC in the stock location.
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05-11-2020, 01:18 PM #29
Right... so before I ordered it I looked at all the posts here (at least that I could find) and none of them indicated that I would have to relocate the IC. That kinda sucks, because that wasn't what I wanted to do at all... but I am confused, the doc that JT posted (and in the 22 page thread) I never read that, plus the doc has a picture of the install in his 08 RXT-X and the sound suppression baffle is still installed, I though when you relocated the IC that you had to remove that and go to a direct pipe?
Just asking, because after looking at it all it doesn't read that way, but you have one so where did you relocate yours to? And did you fab the parts to relocated it or buy a kit?
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05-11-2020, 03:24 PM #30
I removed the the plastic sound surppresor and relocated the the IC. Had plenty of room available for the kanaflex afterwards. I did not want the kanaflex resting on the bellows/carbon seal/pto bearing seal. Later, I added a rear air intake setup.
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