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  1. #11

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptscon View Post
    Anyway, if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears. I'm not sure if I keep trying the same method it will do anything but make it worse. I know they make sockets for stripped heads but back to same issue of no room for a socket/ratchet. Unreal.

    Cut the bold head off, it will take 30 seconds tops.
    Install Helicoil, should take about ten minutes to remove bolt. Cut the head off

    • Drill out the old threads using the drill size that is recommended on the thread repair kit packaging. The shank of the tap also lists the recommended drill size.
    • Tap the hole using the Screw Thread Insert (STI) tap.
    • Install the insert using the installation tool.
    • Remove the tang of the insert.
    • Very easy to do and a strong installation

    The kit is about 12 dollars
    Take Care
    C J

  2. #12
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    Apr 2006
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    Dallas , Texas
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    Before I cut the head off I would cut a slot in the top of the bolt to fit a flat head screwdriver, put a wrench on the screwdriver handle and see if the bolt moves...never know. If not you can still cut the head off. use some heat on the bolt in either case.
    .
    I get stuff like this all the time at our shop and usually wind up welding a nut to the broken bolt with the Tig welder, putting a little wax on it while its hot then wrenching it free. this would be very difficult in a ski.
    .
    hope you get it off.

  3. #13
    Final Post (I think)-
    Here is the final update. I got the SC out today. I had to use a Dremel cutting wheel with a flexible wand. Even with the wand, I couldn't angle it to cut the bolt flush. So I cut the bolt at about a 30 degree angle, stopping when the wheel starting hitting the motor mount.

    After the bolt head was split, we used a chisel to just bust the remaining head off. It takes a couple swift hard blows but you then feel it break.

    Most of the frustration was trying to retrieve wrenches & tools which dropped into the bottom of ski.

    ALSO...WORD OF CAUTION... the so called other 2 outer bolts...I was so excited about getting the stripped inside bolt out I jumped quick to remove the 2 bolts facing rear of ski. The one near the 2:00 position I started to strip even though using a Husky brand e-torx socket. I quickly applied firm forward pressure while turning ratchet. Luckily I got it out.

    THESE BOLTS ARE SH*T AND STRIP VERY EASILY!!! I'm installing either cap bolts or hex heads when I reinstall. If there is a dissimilar metal issue, I don't care because using the OEM bolts is a fck'n dissaster waiting to happen.

    Now I'm all set to send off to Jerry

  4. #14
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Elephant Butte New Mexico
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    When I get a blower in for service I always heat the area around the bolt with a small micro torch and give it a good PB blaster bath the day before I attempt to pull it.

    and treat the time waster with the due respect.

    I have the special seadoo wrench for this application, but I use a 1/4 box wrench mostly. The only time I have to resort to cutting is when the "other guy" was a bit of a ham handed idiot

    I'll typically replace all the bolts as I try not to be the "other guy", and it sure makes it easier when it comes in the next time

    this is one of the times you're thankful for really good quality tools and technique. It's a back breaker on some models to et the blowers out and having a bolt issue just makes me me want to call it a day before noontime

    to avoid a problem, when you winterize, make sure to flood that area with fluid film, I tend to do that even when the ski is in for something else, just because its a problem area for anybody and .25 worth of oil can literally save the day

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  6. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    When I get a blower in for service I always heat the area around the bolt with a small micro torch and give it a good PB blaster bath the day before I attempt to pull it.

    and treat the time waster with the due respect.

    I have the special seadoo wrench for this application, but I use a 1/4 box wrench mostly. The only time I have to resort to cutting is when the "other guy" was a bit of a ham handed idiot

    I'll typically replace all the bolts as I try not to be the "other guy", and it sure makes it easier when it comes in the next time

    this is one of the times you're thankful for really good quality tools and technique. It's a back breaker on some models to et the blowers out and having a bolt issue just makes me me want to call it a day before noontime

    to avoid a problem, when you winterize, make sure to flood that area with fluid film, I tend to do that even when the ski is in for something else, just because its a problem area for anybody and .25 worth of oil can literally save the day
    GREAT ADVISE! I think the "how to" doc on this should be updated.

    Some updates I suggest would be:
    1. Buy the seadoo wrench for the top inside bolt. (Worth $25 to not strip it)
    2. Ref the torch & PB Blaster as optional steps but highly suggested
    3. Avoid Harbor Freight e-torx sockets & box ends (I love HF but these bolts need as much precision as possible)
    4. I removed a motor part held on by 2 more torx bolts (easy access) directly above the back side bolt & top area of SC. Not sure name of the part sorry. Gives much more room to work on the back side bolt.

  7. #16

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Everyone removing their supercharger should own an E8 wrench, for $15 its not worth dealing with a stripped bolt https://www.jbtools.com/vim-tools-wt...rx-box-wrench/

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  9. #17
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Thatís a very fine looking wrench for the job

    Let me add that moving the exhaust out of the way FIRST is the way I handle it

    And that pesky exhaust pipe clamp could be the subject on another service discussion

    The Seadoo special tempts you to try the bolt without moving the exhaust or on some models unbolting the cam sensor


  10. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    That’s a very fine looking wrench for the job

    Let me add that moving the exhaust out of the way FIRST is the way I handle it

    And that pesky exhaust pipe clamp could be the subject on another service discussion

    The Seadoo special tempts you to try the bolt without moving the exhaust or on some models unbolting the cam sensor

    Good point about moving the exhaust. I did mine through trial & error and got it so high up & out of the way that I tied it off so it stayed up & away.

    Great wrench posted by rxtsruss. This all validates my point about someone should update the "how to" removal with all these great tips. It definitely a job I would not want to do again but if I did, it would be 5x easier knowing what to do & not to do.

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