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  1. #1

    GP1800r next mods

    Hey guys,

    Hope everyone is safe and healthy during this pandemic. Iíd like to preface this post with the statement that Iíve used the search function over and over again and Iím not getting great results. If this has been answered and youíd like to post a link to another thread, have at it, but please donít yell at me 😂.

    Anyway, I have a 2019 GP1800r with a stage 1 tune. Love the ski and the performance, best I got was 77.2, but itís more of a consistent 76. Iíd like to do some more mods, but Iím not really interested in going stage 2 as Iíve seen some pretty reliable stage 1 plus skis.

    Would you recommend stage 1 plus as itís sold by Riva? Difference between 13/18 and 13/20? Should I be doing a ribbon delete as well. Any guidance and experience you guys have would be greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    Fizzle. Without question.


  3. #3
    Here is my 2 cents, I have a '18 with 110 hours and running Stage 1.5(8500 rpm) with about 70 hours. My top speed has been 82mph on a perfect lake with cold water and 60-70 air temps. In 100 degree air temps and 80 degree water I can do 76-78mph on flat water. Do you want MPH or Low-end and mid range ?

    I have a 13/18 and personally feel like I would have been better with a 13/20, I would like a little more high end and not concerned with a little loss with low end or mid range because I was honestly happy with the low and mid on a stock prop just wanted more high end was reason for my tune and pop change. I weigh 190lbs and do more cruising and short bust races than I do riding buoys? I always run octane booster for safety and didn't have a problem til last week at 105 hours, it appears like my clutch has taken a dumb which is disappointing because I ride conservative in chop and dont always go balls out. Dont be discouraged by the clutch, it seems to be hit or miss. Some guys go 200 hours and others say its normal to go out at my time interval. The ribbon delete is really easy and cheap on your ski, so why not. The upgraded cooling kit for the Stage 1.5 requires nothing more than some drill bits for your ski. I suggest going Stage 1 plus, its a no brainer and cost nothing more since you need a prop anyway. I was about to go to a 13/20 but that money is now going to replacing the clutch.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboX View Post
    Here is my 2 cents, I have a '18 with 110 hours and running Stage 1.5(8500 rpm) with about 70 hours. My top speed has been 82mph on a perfect lake with cold water and 60-70 air temps. In 100 degree air temps and 80 degree water I can do 76-78mph on flat water. Do you want MPH or Low-end and mid range ?

    I have a 13/18 and personally feel like I would have been better with a 13/20, I would like a little more high end and not concerned with a little loss with low end or mid range because I was honestly happy with the low and mid on a stock prop just wanted more high end was reason for my tune and pop change. I weigh 190lbs and do more cruising and short bust races than I do riding buoys? I always run octane booster for safety and didn't have a problem til last week at 105 hours, it appears like my clutch has taken a dumb which is disappointing because I ride conservative in chop and dont always go balls out. Dont be discouraged by the clutch, it seems to be hit or miss. Some guys go 200 hours and others say its normal to go out at my time interval. The ribbon delete is really easy and cheap on your ski, so why not. The upgraded cooling kit for the Stage 1.5 requires nothing more than some drill bits for your ski. I suggest going Stage 1 plus, its a no brainer and cost nothing more since you need a prop anyway. I was about to go to a 13/20 but that money is now going to replacing the clutch.
    Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I think I’d also be better off with the 13/20 based on what you said. I do a bunch of cruising and top speed runs (against the 300s of course), so that extra mph up top is important to me. I also am extremely impressed with the hole shot I have with the stock prop.

    Do you have an exhaust? I know it’s more of a sound thing than a performance mod, just torn on what I’ve read about free flow and the drone and I’m not overly excited to drill a hole in my hull along with losing a tow ring.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Do you currently have the Riva air intake?

    Stage 1 PLUS is essentially the tune to match with aftermarket cold air intake, and possibly ribbon delete. I use the Riva intake on my 2017 GP1800.
    And the Solas impeller.

    Ribbon delete was commonly recommended prior to the plastic intake manifold (which arrived in 201, especially with a tune.


    Now with the plastic intake manifold some guys have removed the ribbon flame arrestor disc while others have not. It is unclear whether there is a noticeable performance gain.

    IIRC the Riva Stage 2 is effectively the tune to match the installation of an aftermarket intercooler. The tune matches to the engine mods, and the mods then allow the tune to produce the extra power. The Solas impeller determines the maximum engine RPM at full throttle, so the impeller and the tune and the mods must all correspond.

    Allowing the engine RPM to peak higher allows the engine to produce more power and therefore more maximum speed. The downside is the engine is turning more RPM so it is running closer to the actual mechanical redline stress limits.

    If you want Stage 2 with less maximum RPM rise then choose the Solas impeller with more pitch.
    Thanks for the reply. I also must add, I’ve been reading around quite a bit and you’ve been a big help from what I’ve seen. Anyway, I guess I failed to mention I intend to do all mods in Rivas stage 1+, not just the tune. Cooling upgraded, engine breather, power filter, and prop.


    Edit: I do not have an air intake. Only the stage 1 tune

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Do you currently have the Riva air intake?

    Stage 1 PLUS is essentially the tune to match with aftermarket cold air intake, and possibly ribbon delete. And the Solas impeller.
    I use the Riva intake on my 2017 GP1800, Stage 1 Plus tune (ribbon delete, Solas).

    Ribbon delete was commonly recommended prior to the plastic intake manifold (which arrived in 2018 ), especially with a tune.

    Now with the plastic intake manifold some guys have removed the ribbon flame arrestor disc while others have not. It is unclear whether there is a noticeable performance gain.

    IIRC the Riva Stage 2 is effectively the tune to match the installation of an aftermarket intercooler. The tune matches to the engine mods, and the mods then allow the tune to produce the extra power. The Solas impeller determines the maximum engine RPM at full throttle, so the impeller and the tune and the mods must all correspond.

    Allowing the engine RPM to peak higher allows the engine to produce more power and therefore more maximum speed. The downside is the engine is turning more RPM so it is running closer to the actual mechanical redline stress limits.

    If you want Stage 2 with less maximum RPM rise then choose the Solas impeller with more pitch.

    Riva bundles their intake grate and ride plate with Stage 2 Kit, but the 2019 Yamaha OEM ĎRí intake grate and ride plate are already rather good. Whether you stay with the 2019 OEM parts or use the Riva grate and ride plate, that to me is separate from the Stage _x_ tune/engine power/RPM target discussion.

  7. #7
    As far as the Stage 1+ tune and supporting mods, just realize that will put you over the 8k rpm mark and will most likely cause warranty issues if you have an engine problem in the future. Not saying that Yamaha will 100% deny coverage but they'll have a pretty good leg to stand on. Might as well go stage 2 at that point if you have the $.

    If you chose to stick with the intake, stage 1+ tune, and cooling kit then stick with the 13/20 so you have that little higher top speed.

    I have a '17 stage 2. Riva intake, ribbon delete, stage 2 aggressive tune, Riva retainers, hull through exhaust, fizzle w/tial and dedicated cooling, 13/18, '19 ride plate, factory intake grate, pump seal kit, and engine breather. I saw 83.7 on GPS on flat water down in Florida (I'm in NJ and see you are as well). I get about 83 on the not so flat Barnegat bay. There's a few tweaks I need to make to get it up to that 86 that Riva claims.

    If you look at your factory ride plate vs riva's they're nearly identical, minus the black coating. Also, be aware that there have been some issues with '19+ factory intake grates cracking when hitting 80+ mph. For peace of mind, I'd say either get a '17/ '18 or go for an aftermarket.

    As far as the exhaust, my buddy has an fzr that used to have a free flow. The drone was horrible. He upgraded to a worx hull through, and I have a Riva hull through. The drone is not bad at all while riding. You're welcome to hear it in person if you'd like just shoot me a PM.

    Also, you technically do lose a tow hook if you do the hull through but you can put a stainless bolt through the boarding step bracket and use that as a tie down. I included a pic of mine.


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  8. #8
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    I have the riva through hull on my GP. I relocated the rear tie down.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by eman2289 View Post
    As far as the Stage 1+ tune and supporting mods, just realize that will put you over the 8k rpm mark and will most likely cause warranty issues if you have an engine problem in the future. Not saying that Yamaha will 100% deny coverage but they'll have a pretty good leg to stand on. Might as well go stage 2 at that point if you have the $.

    If you chose to stick with the intake, stage 1+ tune, and cooling kit then stick with the 13/20 so you have that little higher top speed.

    I have a '17 stage 2. Riva intake, ribbon delete, stage 2 aggressive tune, Riva retainers, hull through exhaust, fizzle w/tial and dedicated cooling, 13/18, '19 ride plate, factory intake grate, pump seal kit, and engine breather. I saw 83.7 on GPS on flat water down in Florida (I'm in NJ and see you are as well). I get about 83 on the not so flat Barnegat bay. There's a few tweaks I need to make to get it up to that 86 that Riva claims.

    If you look at your factory ride plate vs riva's they're nearly identical, minus the black coating. Also, be aware that there have been some issues with '19+ factory intake grates cracking when hitting 80+ mph. For peace of mind, I'd say either get a '17/ '18 or go for an aftermarket.

    As far as the exhaust, my buddy has an fzr that used to have a free flow. The drone was horrible. He upgraded to a worx hull through, and I have a Riva hull through. The drone is not bad at all while riding. You're welcome to hear it in person if you'd like just shoot me a PM.

    Also, you technically do lose a tow hook if you do the hull through but you can put a stainless bolt through the boarding step bracket and use that as a tie down. I included a pic of mine.


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    I think I talked to you last year by the island house, could be wrong, but I chopped it up with a blue GP with like the exact mods lol. I Originally did the 8000 rpm tune to “protect” my warranty. I literally turned around and did the 8300 tune lol. Thanks for the advice. I think I’ll do stage 1+ tune with all supporting intake mods, 13/20, ribbon delete, and the Riva intake grate per your advice. Should I do the pump seal kit as well? Kind of seems like a no brainer. I think I’m going to hold off on the exhaust for now, I’ll be sleeper for a little longer. I’ll definitely PM you when we get closer to riding season, we’ll take a cruise.

    Mr. GP1800, i like the relocation of the tie down, definitely impressive.
    Last edited by Frank_NJ; 04-12-2020 at 08:35 AM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank_NJ View Post
    I think I talked to you last year by the island house, could be wrong, but I chopped it up with a blue GP with like the exact mods lol. I Originally did the 8000 rpm tune to ďprotectĒ my warranty. I literally turned around and did the 8300 tune lol. Thanks for the advice. I think Iíll do stage 1+ turn with all supporting mods, ribbon delete, and the Riva intake grate per your advice. Should I do the pump seal kit as well? Kind of seems like a no brainer. I think Iím going to hold off on the exhaust for now, Iíll be sleeper for a little longer. Iíll definitely PM you when we get closer to riding season, weíll take a cruise.

    Mr. GP1800, i like the relocation of the tie down, definitely impressive.
    Hmm I can't say I remember that, but maybe lol. Yes pump seal kit for sure, it's only like 80 bucks. And as far as going above 8k rpms, it sucked tuning it but as soon as I hit the water and felt it pull like a freight train all the way up to 83mph... It was worth it.

    Also, the Riva "cooling kit" is just 2 drill bits and you drill out 2 factory plastic fittings to have a larger orifice. There's no need to spend the money on the kit. The instructions are on this page under RY10080-ECUK-I

    https://rivaracing.com/rt-3552-yamaha.html

    You'll see that you have the oil cooler that does NOT require the brass tee that comes with the kit so all that's left of the kit is the 2 drill bits. I bought the kit because I didn't know this and still have it, I'll dig up the sizes of the drill bits and let you know. Save you a few bucks.

    Also, check out this page, specifically post #63 and #83 regarding the ride plate. The '19 is nearly identical to the Riva one. And I just saw that Riva doesn't include the plate in the kits for the newer GPs, that must be why. If I were you I'd look into a Jim's or Deans team cut on the ride plate. That's my next modification.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=276381&page=9

    Definitely use https://www.4-tecperformance.com/
    for your orders, use the discount code "greenhulk" for 10% off. That's where I got all my stuff from, the owner Jerry Gaddis is very helpful with any questions/issues.

    A blow off valve is highly recommended for charger clutch life. There's a few options for a basic hose and bov kit but a lot of people like the macsboost setup (I can't comment on it because I don't have one) I swear by my fizzle with the tial on it. I feel like my ski said "I can finally breathe!" After I installed it. But it is a 1 thousand dollar setup. Just something to think about. You can find the used every once in a while or contact fizzle and get a discounted test unit.

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