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  1. #41
    JESUS G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dima View Post
    I'm not sure if its same for all but you loose ECO mode when you go riva stage 2,
    Not necessary......

    If you lose any of the modes and you want it back, just send me an email with the VIN and the file you want the modes back

    jesusg@rivaracing.com


  2. #42
    NitroFish300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JESUS G View Post
    Not necessary......

    If you lose any of the modes and you want it back, just send me an email with the VIN and the file you want the modes back

    jesusg@rivaracing.com
    didnt know that i will shoot you a email shortly

  3. #43
    NitroFish300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    Maybe you to can become part of the "80 MPH Club" All you have to do is install a crappy rear intake in the hottest part of the ski and run with the seat off on one bar of fuel on cool morning.

    Do yourself a favor and flash to a Riva stage 2 tune, Riva Intake, 13/18 Solas and that is about as good as it gets before getting into big charges and a lot more expense.
    so running your intake on top of a hot A$$ valve cover makes more sense...... i dont want to start a argument about that topic both ways have there pros and cons


  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroFish300 View Post
    so running your intake on top of a hot A$$ valve cover makes more sense...... i dont want to start a argument about that topic both ways have there pros and cons
    The only thing I know 100% from personal experience is that a bone stock stage 1 tuned RXTX against motec tuned(I tuned it) RXTX with a kana flex filter intake routed up front with the flame arrestor removed only made about 120rpm difference. Ran on the same day, I road on both skis. This is without any additional airflow mods to the hull.

    There is probably an argument to made for blocking radiant heat from the valve cover(riva makes something) and the even the area down where the charger is where you would put the stubby intake. Is it worth 10 RPM, 50rpm blocking that radiant heat? I have no idea. I’m guessing the air passing through the intake so fast it’s not absorbing that much heat from those components…but maybe

    So the other question at hand is do you want your air pulling in from the source of air coming in at the front of the ski or the air coming across the engine and circulating around the area of the exhaust components. How much RPM is that worth one vs the other? I have no idea honestly. I’m working off the assumption hotter air going into the charger is definitely not as good as cooler air assuming other variables are basically the same. Which assumes having the short stubby intake is sucking more hot air than my long intake to the font of the ski. I could be completely incorrect and the short stubby air intake could be the best thing since sliced bread…but logically it doesn’t seem like a good idea. I suppose a temp probe in the front of the charger and at the front of the ski would tell the story.

    Maybe Riva made that ridiculously huge intake pipe just to torture us cost us a bunch of money when they could’ve made the whole intake for $50.

    Let the arguments begin ��

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by JESUS G View Post
    Not necessary......

    If you lose any of the modes and you want it back, just send me an email with the VIN and the file you want the modes back

    jesusg@rivaracing.com
    And this is why you use the Riva flash....SUPPORT!

  6. +1 by:


  7. #46
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    And this is why you use the Riva flash....SUPPORT!
    With out you and Jesus, I'd be paddling

  8. #47
    Davrac's Avatar
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    The Maptuner platform is great. It’s not just “files” that are flashed, there is a lot of R&D that has gone on and collaboration between all parties involved. Then you have the benefit of customisation of the maps and the support that is on offer.

    on another note, I have installed temp probes and recorded data of temps within the hull. You would be surprised at results. The biggest benefit you can do is get more air into and out of the hulls. That will reduce the in hull temps. Having an efficient intercooler setup is also a key component reducing the spread of temps

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  10. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Davrac View Post
    on another note, I have installed temp probes and recorded data of temps within the hull. You would be surprised at results.
    Do tell, Brother. it will save me the trouble of doing it myself.

  11. #49
    Davrac's Avatar
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    There isn’t much difference within the hull on temps. Unless your bringing air in from outside it doesn’t matter too much where you pull air from for air intake. Within the hull I found that without adding extra venting to allow air to continually flow through the hull that all the warm air just recirculated internally.

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  13. #50
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    Water temp effects performane alot more than outside air temp. One of the last things you air charge will see before it goes into the engine is the IC. If you are riding in cold water then your air charge will be nice and cool. Out side air does not matter. Thats why so many people reroute there cooling system so that the IC will get the fresh/coolest water first.


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