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  1. #141

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    Heat humidity water temp. Summer Killers wait until
    October and your RPMs will come back.


  2. #142
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    Houston, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIECIKSuc View Post
    Yea, I got that from a few folks and did some research on windage on these ski's... seems like it's a real problem for sure.

    First time I checked it it was a little high and that was cold, and on the ramp, so I was like, eh, it's guna be lower than that so it will be below the mark for sure...
    Checked the catch can and there was like 3 baby drops so I thought I was good...

    Next time I checked it just to be sure was after running the ski for 2-3 mins in the water. Flat on the water, it read over the second bump again.
    I didn't have the time with fathers day to buy a siphon and all that. Also I was planing on bringing it to someone so figured I would let them handle it.

    At this point, I am going to have Erik from SpeedFreeks review the ski completely.
    I've talked to him a few times on the phone and he seems like he really know's his shit, and has the backing from Jesus G whom told me to contact him, as well as others here on the forums that have a ton of experience and for whom I have a good deal of respect for. If these guys say he's a good dude who can help, well that's the plan then.

    I suggest a quality GPS mounted to the handlebar for accurate speed numbers rather than relying on the speedo. From the beginning, a hand written log noting weather conditions and each mod added should have been done....to keep tract of your progress. That said, the best time to measure performance increases is during the spring.....cool water temps (70* +/-), lower humidity (<50%), higher barometric pressure (29.92+).

    Second, Impeller pitch.....get a second jet pump and a properly (less) pitched impeller for use during summer. This will help maintain your targeted RPM/boost. Your max speed will still be slower than spring time speeds but you will lose less speed!

  3. +1 by:


  4. #143
    So, been off the radar a bit on this... Waiting to find out what the situation is, but it's not good.

    Took the ski out from my current marina to the marina with my trailer in storage, it's about a 7 min ride between the two on the water.

    Ski started up no problem ran no problem for a few mins, but I was low on fuel. Headed to the gasdock further up the marina inlet, and gassed up with 93 as always.

    Continued out of the marina thereafter till I cleared the 5 mph zone and got on it a bit to get up and clear of the channel, and start heading that way (to the other marina).

    Clipped over some boat wake as per the usual (not airing it out, just skipping across it at a normal speed) and the ski lost power.

    Tried to start it up again, and it would crank a few times but not fire up.
    Saw an IBR flash for a split second on the dash, but nothing else.

    Called a buddy and had him tow me to the other marina, got the ski out of the water and pulled the plugs.
    Cylinder 3 plug is in pieces...

    Brought it to the dealership and told them what happened.

    I told them the plug was in pieces and they still fired up the ski on the trailer sitting in the parking lot and of course you could HEAR metal sounds.
    They turned the ski off after about 2 seconds and said "Oh yea, your motor's fucked"...

    It's been there since the 20th, and I have no updates on how bad it is.
    Last week they said they wouldn't have any answers till after the holiday and the whole motor had to be pulled out and torn down to find out how bad it is.


    Few things to make note of.
    1. Dealership has done every bit of work to the ski from day 1.
    2. Dealership winterized the ski for me
    3. Dealership de-winterized the ski for me and installed all parts this year.
    4. Told the Dealership that the rev's were wrong and the speed was down and something was wrong. They told me "it needed to settle in, and this is normal" and "you need to buy a new prop to use now too".
    5. Dealer fired up the ski with the busted up plugs after being told the plug was in pieces.

    Once I know how bad it is, and what the warranty status is I will give everyone an update...
    Pretty shitty situation all together.

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  6. #144
    moparguy's Avatar
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    Sep 2016
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    Niagara Falls, Ontario
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    That sucks man, hopefully they make it right. Any concelation, it now gives you the excuse to build the bottom end and lighten everything.

  7. #145
    Ok, so here is the brief update...


    Got a call today from my Dealership, I was on a conference call and had to make it quick but they said that a valve broke.

    The dealer told me that it looks like bad casting on the valve itself, and that's in no way my fault.
    Manufacturing defect, so it should be covered 100% on warranty.
    Also said I need a new long block, so they are processing that now.
    Unless I am missing something, a new long block is the entire engine...

    I guess my questions now are going to be where to go from here?
    Suggestions are welcome...

  8. #146

    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Jax,FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIECIKSuc View Post
    Ok, so here is the brief update...


    Got a call today from my Dealership, I was on a conference call and had to make it quick but they said that a valve broke.

    The dealer told me that it looks like bad casting on the valve itself, and that's in no way my fault.
    Manufacturing defect, so it should be covered 100% on warranty.
    Also said I need a new long block, so they are processing that now.
    Unless I am missing something, a new long block is the entire engine...

    I guess my questions now are going to be where to go from here?
    Suggestions are welcome...
    Buy another ski while you wait, life’s short...summer is shorter.

  9. #147
    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    Buy another ski while you wait, life’s short...summer is shorter.

    Heh... I wish...

    They do have a 2020 RXP-X coming in... but honestly, it's not the financial decision I need to make right now hahahah.

  10. #148
    Sooo next update...


    New Motor "should be in anyday now."

    and it will take about a week to get everything sorted out.

    Few questions for everyone.


    1. I am worried about A/F ratio more now then ever. - Does anyone have any highly recommended setups to have a constant A/F monitor running? Any examples of it? I would want something to always be present in case and something I could monitor while I ride. Mount it ion the glove dash lid, or even better, mount it in in place of one of the mirrors or even have a custom pod made or something as needed. Anyone know of anything like this?

    2. Ditto for boost... at this point if I am doing it for A/F I would also like to have insight onto boost. Matching the mounting as the A/F monitor.

    3. Back to stock, break in and then start adjusting each item at a time.

    Currently I have all the stock parts in a box... Some stuff I can't revert back to stock - IE the through hull exhaust.

    I think the following would be the path forward -

    1. Catch can back installed.
    2. Strainer left installed.
    3. Fizzle Intercooler installed still, (It's more of a pain in the ass of a removal just to put it back in later)
    4. Through hull Exhaust stays (can't be removed at this point)
    5. Race waterbox Removed for the Stock waterbox (because it will be 1 less thing to think about)
    6. JP racing intake removed (because it's one less thing to think about) Stock intake used.
    7. IMUK Kit not installed on new motor leave this out for now... (one less thing to think about, also no tune for the break in and so on)
    8. MaptunerX - Not used at all for now...
    9. SCOM - Not used at all for now...

    New -
    10. Add A/F Gauge
    11. Add boost Gauge

    Run it with those changes for the break in period, once I am up around 7 hours or so, pop on the SCOM.
    See where I am at with just the SCOM... Document it over a few good days/consistent runs.

    Tune to "Bone stock 8300" and test compared to SCOM

    Add intake Test it out again

    Add Race waterbox, test it out again

    Tune to stage 2 Test it out again

    Decide if I want to do IMUK And Stage 2 + IMUK tune at that point.


    Thoughts/Advice/Input?

  11. #149
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
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    Terschelling - the Netherlands
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    Dashpac is good solution for your A/F & boost on OEM display.

    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...f2lso0cb6n7rf0

  12. #150
    Quote Originally Posted by EVN81 View Post
    Dashpac is good solution for your A/F & boost on OEM display.

    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...f2lso0cb6n7rf0
    2nd Dashpac, tapping the manifold sucks though. I always hate myself for not waiting til 2020. The new pretapped manifold is nice....

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