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  1. #1
    madtom's Avatar
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    2002 900 STX engine and carb work

    Hi all,

    So using my teleworking time to pull the old engine out and put the other one in. Yesterday I was able to disconnect the fuel and water lines and remove the carb and exhaust.


    Today I started to disassemble the cdcv carbs for rebuild and will hopefully document this so others can keep their skis going for a long time. I have a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke ski..... gas mileage is better on 4 stroke but the 2 stroke is simpler to maintain... both have advantages
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  2. #2
    madtom's Avatar
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    Everything on the inside of the carbs looks good but still going thru the carb rebuild to make sure it wasn't the carbs that contributed to the loss of cylinder# 2 last year.... Especially since these carbs are going on the replacement engine.
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  3. #3
    madtom's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the carbs one at a time then when I get new parts in I will setup popoff pressure.... Have genuine kawa springs for that. Inlet valve doesn't appear to have much wear
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  4. #4
    madtom's Avatar
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    Except this time when I rebuild it making some recommended mods to increase holeshot and richen the fuel a tiny bit.


    Drill pilots with #78 drill.... which will bring it up to about a #40 sized jet
    Enlarge air bleed holes in vac chamber with #58
    Drill out low speed adj plugs and turn 3/4-1 turn out


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  6. #5
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    Dirt collects in the fuel rails. Also the fuel rail O-rings and the O-rings under the needle valve seats fail. They are all the same size. Don't forget to check the pop-off pressure of the oil inlet valves, too!

  7. #6
    madtom's Avatar
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    Factory manual says to set pop-off on these at 1.10 kgf/cm2 or 15.6 psi what should I shoot for as ideal popoff pressure?

  8. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madtom View Post
    Factory manual says to set pop-off on these at 1.10 kgf/cm2 or 15.6 psi what should I shoot for as ideal popoff pressure?
    Don't understand your question. 1.1 kgf/cm2 IS 15.6 psi. Do you have a metric pressure gauge? Go with the 15.6 PSI (you'll actually never achieve it). I'd be happy with 14-18 PSI or so.


  9. #8
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    Steve,
    Sorry was asking a ballpark question... 14-18psi is the answer I was looking for. I was testing with WD40 last night and will have to shorten the new springs 1/4 turn at a time to bring the popoff pressure down. From the bag they are like 25-30 psi with 2mm on the float arm level.

  10. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    What was it with the original springs?

  11. #10
    madtom's Avatar
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    Steve,


    Original Springs were like 17lbs popoff but it was leaking a little at around 14-15.... currently waiting for the orings to come in for the fuel lines and the tiny ones that go on the air screw.

    In your opinion when rebuilding carbs, which is more accurate... disconnect the carbs and set pop-off for each seperately or do them all together. Using my mighty vac and blocking off return when I pump it up. I have new factory springs to put in for the rebuild and I know I will have to clip them to get to the right spring pressure....

    Today I plan on working on the case of the replacement engine and putting new seals in. The old seals are not leaking but at 20 years of age might be a little brittle. I figure replace them now while I have access.

    After splitting the case the old seals were brittle and the collar under the coupler seals had some marks. case halves cleaned up easy and the bearings looked good for an engine that has been setting in preservative for the last 10 or so years. Was a lot of fun to dig the kawibond out of the nooks and crannies.
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    Last edited by madtom; 04-12-2020 at 03:51 PM.

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