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  1. #1

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    2001 Polaris Genesis 1200 DI Electrical Issues

    New to this forum/jetski's, so bear with me as I have a lot of questions. We recently purchased a 2003 Seadoo GTX with a blown engine. We've since replaced the engine, and have it running, but one thing led to another and now we have a 2001 Polaris Genesis with what we were told was an EMM issue - no spark. I'm just diving into this project, and wanted to take a look at the electrical issue, as it appears that has had a lot of "work" in the form of troubleshooting. I'd like to track down a wiring diagram/schematic, which I think I've found after a lot of digging online and through Greenhulk. I'd also like some opinions on where to troubleshoot this issue. I've read the CDI may be a non-spark culprit in addition to possible EMM. Attached is a photo of the terminal board, and wiring. What's concerning to me is how the breakers are being wired. I haven't tried to power up yet, I'm literally just cracking this thing open now and wanted to start a discussion, as there are a lot of great resources on this site I've found. I was hoping to find a photo of what the wiring inside the box should look like, in addition to schematic. I'm also open to input. Thanks for any help in getting this ski running.
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  2. #2
    Just got a Polaris Genesis i up and running from a no spark issue. Mine was a little on the easy side but it may work for you. Disconnect the TPS sensor and check for spark. My ski was as simple as that, I had no spark but as soon as I disconnected the TPS sensor it firing up but only idled. Once I got a new TPS sensor install it ran good.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FightingSioux View Post
    New to this forum/jetski's ...

    ... now we have a 2001 Polaris Genesis with what we were told was an EMM issue - no spark. ...

    ... I've read the CDI may be a non-spark culprit in addition to possible EMM. ...

    ... there are a lot of great resources on this site I've found. ....
    Welcome.

    Click this link, save it in your bookmarks.
    Lots of useful info.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    CDI is the ignition system for a carburetor engine.
    EMM is the module on a Ficht direct fuel injection engine.

    Confirm which engine type you have?

  4. #4

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    Ha, rookie mistake. I have the direct inject. I thought CDI was the nomenclature to discribe the terminal board/electronics. Like I said, I'm literally just cracking into this.

    Polaris 700cc - thanks for your suggestion.

  5. #5

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    Read what K447 pointed you to. Do the stator checks as a good place to start.

  6. #6

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    OK, I've spent a lot of time trouble shooting, and researching the variety of issues I've come across with this jetski. I've learned a lot, but still haven't gotten it on the water. Here's where I'm at:
    I've tested the stator and have the good voltage and resistance
    8 volts on 1-12
    8 volts on 2-11
    5 volts on 3-10
    5 volts on 4-9
    5 volts on 5-8
    Ohm's are all around 0.5

    I now have spark at the plugs (appears faint, not sure how bright that should be, but it's there). Injector voltage measured at the plug disconnected from injector is around 22 when cranking. I have gotten the ski to fire, but can't keep it running, and it's been very intermittent when I do get it to fire. I've checked the CPS, and believe it's good, but will revisit that. I've read a lot about the TPS being the culprit. Could that be preventing the ski from firing, or would it still idle OK? I have disconnected the TPS and attempted to run it as well. Fuel pump works, although I haven't confirmed fuel pressure. I will need to get a gauge to do that (expect around 25 psi?). I did find that the kill switch wasn't operating correctly as the lanyard is too thin. I also noticed that when I did get it to run that pushing the stop button didn't shut it off, I had to use the kill switch (screwdriver wedged in keeping it open). Could the start/stop be causing a conflict within the EMM? I've also done the LR-503 bypass without any change in outcome. Any thoughts on additional diagnostics to perform would be appreciated.

    Since my last post, I've purchased a parts Virage with the same engine - 1200 DI Ficht, with a bad engine. I've swapped out the EMM and injectors, but have no guarantees that there isn't an EMM issue without sending that in. I've also swapped the TPS and CPS, but again - no assurances on functionality of the part.

    The last time I did get it running, I had the TPS unplugged and I squeezed the throttle a bit. It bogged down and quit, and I haven't been able to start it since. Prior to that, it started several times in a row, and I thought I was getting somewhere. Now I'm back to square 1. Oh, and I've also put in a new AGM battery.
    Last edited by FightingSioux; 07-07-2020 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Updated text

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    When it is working properly the Ficht system delivers a very strong spark. Weak spark is not normal.

    22 volts with one injector unplugged and engine cranking is also weak. I would be expecting several volts higher.

    LR-503 bypass -> leave it bypassed until you get the engine working properly. While bypassed only the lanyard switch can stop the engine. The red handlebar button is for Start only, until the LR-503 is reconnected.

    Engine should start and idle with TPS unplugged. BUT some EMM donít like not seeing the TPS signal and engine will not start.

    With TPS disconnected the engine will not rev when throttle is squeezed. Throttle pulled open only makes the engine run more lean at idle speed.

  8. #8

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    Thanks for the reply. So here’s a quick update on the checking we did tonight. I wasn’t seeing much of any spark so decided to check the coils and wiring. I disconnect the EMM completely, and checked the red spark plug wires for continuity back to the large EMM plug. All were fine, and the coils were showing 300 ohms each (not sure yet what they should be) so I concluded they were fine. With the EMM out I decided to put the old one back in to test - nothing. I then put the original EMM back and tested for spark at each plug. I had more spark than I’ve seen yet. I put the plugs back in and it fired right up. We shut it off via the lanyard kill (stop button won’t stop the engine). What I also did when it was off is hook the TPS back up. When I went to start it - nothing. Pulled the plug and weak spark again. Disconnected the TPS again, nothing. So I’m wondering a few things:
    - Does the EMM reset, or the capacitor fully discharge with the EMM completely disconnected?
    - The stop button not working makes me wonder if this is in fact an LR503 module issue? Could pulling the kill switch leave the EMM thinking it’s in shutdown mode?
    - Could hooking up the TPS if it’s bad have sent some error signal to the EMM?

    Based on what we saw tonight, those are my areas of focus right now. Thoughts please?
    Last edited by FightingSioux; 07-07-2020 at 09:36 PM. Reason: Added text

  9. #9
    martincom's Avatar
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    The Direct Injected watercraft normally has a monstrous spark. Check the DC voltage on the white/red wire feeding power to the injectors. It should be 21 vdc while cranking and 45 vdc while running. You need to make this measurement with everything connected (back probing the connector with a paper clip or something similar.) The white/red wire also appears in the 4 pin diagnostic plug and may be easier to back probe. Also, be sure you have a strong battery when making this measurement.

    You've pretty much checked everything else and the EMMs failing with age is pretty common. So that is likely where you are going to end up. I believe Lakeside Tech will test your EMM at no charge, short of return shipping, and is the most competent repair service available.

    The erratic symptoms you described in your last post are all indicative of a defective EMM.

    While your EMM is being tested, you can reinforce your fuel pressure regulator. This is mandatory. If it falls off while under full throttle, the resulting lean condition will quickly melt holes through pistons. See this thread for details.

  10. #10

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    Thanks for the reply. I was hoping there might be something else I could test before sending out the EMM. I did try to bypass the LR503 module again tonight without any promising results. It did fire and die right away and that was it. Appreciate the insights on the fuel pressure regulator, I’ll for take care of that. If there are any other key things for me to take care of, I would appreciate that feedback as well. I have thumbed through the guidance and wealth of information that K447 has provided.

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