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  1. #1

    1994 Wave Raider 700 Revs Up and wont turn off with kill Switch

    I just recently was given 3 jet skis. I started with the Wave Raider 1st cause it seemed to have less issues. The skis have been sitting for about 5 years in a barn. So what I have done so far was empty fuel tank and cleaned it out, replaced fuel filter, replaced fuel lines, bypassed oil pump(went to pre-mix) and rebuilt carburetor. So after getting it all back together and putting fresh fuel mixed at 40.1 ratio it seemed to be all good. Starts right up, idles a little high (on the hose) but when I rev it up it will stay rev'd up and wont turn off with the kill switch. I give it full throttle and it will die, crank it right back up let it idle hit the kill switch and it turns off. Start it back up, rev it up and it runs away again. Anyone had this issue or know what it may be?


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    air leak from your carb rebuild. careful, you hole a piston pretty quick. keep a good rag handy to stuff in the carb to stop the runaway. shutting the gas will melt the piston

    most likely the carbs base gasket is leaking or your needle and seat are leaking(badly)

    welcome aboard GH!

  3. #3
    I changed the base gasket out and felt like it was good and tight. Would you recommend that I put some rtv gasket maker along with the new gasket? or just double check the torque one the base?

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    NEVER use RTV on a carb gasket. surface prep is key. I use some red high tack spray and coat both surface well

    checking the pop off pressure and inspecting your float valve assembly is next

    did you change the needle and seat?, clean the internal fuel filter on the carb?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    NEVER use RTV on a carb gasket. surface prep is key. I use some red high tack spray and coat both surface well

    checking the pop off pressure and inspecting your float valve assembly is next

    did you change the needle and seat?, clean the internal fuel filter on the carb?

    I scraped surface clean on all gasket surfaces, I reused needle but changed the spring and put a new fuel filter. I did not do the pop off pressure test. I plan on pulling carbs back off and double check sealing surface but I now have to wait for my hand to heal due to my stupidity and stabbing my hand with a knife.... Should be good to go in a week or so. So if i crank it and have it at an Idle and spray carb cleaner around the base will this help to see if there is a leak?

  6. #6
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    One test for checking for a air leak is to completely close your throttle blades (turn out idle adjustment until not touching) and then see if it will start up and idle. As long as the carbs aren't wildly out of sync it shouldn't be able to idle.

    At very minimum you should always replace the O-Ring on the needle seat if you aren't doing a new needle/seat during rebuild. If you do a pop off pressure test and it won't hold pressure, 9 times out of 10 that is where it is bleeding off.

    Generally you reuse the old spring as well. The rebuild kits don't come with all four springs so sometimes the old spring is the only correct spring you have available to achieve correct pop off.

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  8. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yamaha1819 View Post
    I scraped surface clean on all gasket surfaces, I reused needle but changed the spring and put a new fuel filter. I did not do the pop off pressure test. I plan on pulling carbs back off and double check sealing surface but I now have to wait for my hand to heal due to my stupidity and stabbing my hand with a knife.... Should be good to go in a week or so. So if i crank it and have it at an Idle and spray carb cleaner around the base will this help to see if there is a leak?

    servicing a carb that was sitting for several years, likely with ethanol fuel and not changing the needle on a 26 year old carb is simply put, a waste of your time.

    Those carb bits wear out due to engine vibration. Do us a favor get out from under the shade tree and at the least replace the needle

    Like Gunney, I'm Hard, but fair.

    Now pull those carbs off and do them RIGHT, private shadetree!


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  10. #8
    Update, I put it in the water and it fires right up and idles at 1500 rpm and seems good at idle. Try to accelerate and it wants to bog down. Adjusted the High adjustment screws and it got a little better but when I choke it about halfway it responds really well. The one other thing I notice is that it seems to be running hot. Water is pissing out the back like it should but it is not a steady stream coming out of the port side. When I shut it off it will start shooting steam and a little water will start spitting out of the port side. I pulled the hose off the top of the head and squirted water thru the hose and got water to come out the port side. I'm thinking maybe the water jacket in the heads my be restricted, Any ideas how to clean this without pulling heads? Can I run CLR thru it? I feel like I'm getting closer but any input will help. Thanks for all the input so so far and thanks in advance for anymore ideas.

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