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  1. #1
    Xspook's Avatar
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    Heat shrink wire connectors with solder built in

    So, have I been living under a rock all these years? I just found out about these...

    https://www.amazon.com/120PCS-Solder...s%2C168&sr=8-3

    Seems like the perfect application for trailer lights, bilge pumps, etc.

  2. #2
    Lol i orderd some from a Facebook ad , I've used them a few time don't really like them though

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xspook View Post
    ... I just found out about these...

    https://www.amazon.com/120PCS-Solder...s%2C168&sr=8-3

    Seems like the perfect application for trailer lights, bilge pumps, etc.
    The core win is using heat sealed heat shrink connectors. Heat activated adhesive lining the inside of the heat shrink tube - which seals between the wire insulation and the surrounding shrink tube to keep moisture from wicking into the joint inside.

    When using the solder ring type (which should also have the heat activated sealant inside) I prefer to first solder the wire ends together. Then slide the solder ring over the soldered joint and apply heat to activate the solder ring and shrink the tube and activate the sealant.

    I do not trust the solder ring inside the tube, by itself, to always create a reliable wire joint. Sometimes it does ok, sometimes not. And it can be hard to tell from the outside if the soldered result is marginal or a properly good solder joint.

    So I prefer to solder the wire join myself, first.
    And if I am doing that, then I can often just use an adhesive lined heat shrink butt connector.

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  4. #4
    downunder123
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    I prefer solder over any type of crimping when repairing wires/connectors on the electrical harness'. Applying the correct size of heat shrink will seal off the exposed wires and sometimes using the second shrink which is even longer encapsulating the whole repair job..
    Never cut wires for troubleshooting purposes. Don't use any electrical tape to "wrap" the wire after the repair.
    The electrical conductor (copper?) will corrode from inside even when fully insulated by the outer shield (plastic, rubber..?) and make it hard to or non-solderable.
    I use baking soda first and then rinse it with the demineralized water , it cleans copper really well making it solder possible.


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