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  1. #11
    martincom's Avatar
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    The link you provided requires permission. The MSX through hull bearings and seals should be replaced every 100 hours. The Polaris replacement kit is NLA. K447 has the generic bearing and seal replacement info on his PWC Info page. There is a link to it at the bottom of his posts.

    There is a thread, somewhere, about replacing the bearing/seals and preserving the the pump driveshaft to crankshaft alignment. The jest of the thread was drilling an 1/8" hole through the inner hull and the bearing housing before disassembly. When re-assembling, inserting an 1/8" drill bit in each hole fully before securing the bearing mounting bolts.

  2. #12
    So i got the new rebuild kit for the thb. I also got the chain wrench to wrap around the coupler. Took my breaker bar and it came loose. However, the shaft keeps spinning and it doesnt come off? Not sure how to get this thing off. I really do not want to have to take out the engine. Any ideas?

  3. #13

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    I don’t understand. Are you saying the coupler is turning but not umthreading from the crank? How are you keeping the crank from turning?

  4. #14
    I am using the chain wrench around the coupler. The two things with the rubber spider thing in it. The chain wrench is holding that still while i turned the driveshaft with my tool.
    The driveshaft is loose from everything but it wont come out?
    Holding the coupler thing stops the crank

  5. #15
    martincom's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if we understand what you are conveying. I understand you have your chain wrench on the coupler, I'm assuming the driveshaft half of the coupler. I'm going to assume you have the pump components removed so all that remains in the pump cavity is the splined end of the driveshaft. Correct? You have the special tool that mates with the driveshaft spline, that you can place a socket over, correct? Via the special tool, you are able to turn the driveshaft counteclockwise and unscrew it from the coupler half that is being held by the chain wrench, correct? You can see the threads, at the coupler end of the driveshaft, that had backed out of the coupler, correct?

    If all that is correct, I'm going to speculate the through hull seals leaked and the bearing corroded to the driveshaft. Soak it down with penetrating oil. I've never encountered this issue. I would first attempt to come up with something I could clamp around the driveshaft, that would enable me to then attach a slide hammer. If it still didnt come up, I'd heat the bearing up with the acetylene torch. if the hull is full of oil, which is common from the oil tank leaking around the level sending unit, you'll need to clean that up first, so you do not create a fire.

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    There have been cases where the MSX engine ended up being lifted up enough so the driveshaft complete with rusted on bearing assembly could slide forward into the hull, then extract the driveshaft from the hull for workbench attack.

    Note the alignment trick using two drilled holes into the through-hull casting, prior to loosening the four bolts. During re-assembly the drilled holes guide the casting back into the exact position it came from. Whether this is sufficiently aligned, well, depends on some luck.

  7. #17
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    Greetings,
    HiPerCo mentioned you had a driveshaft stuck in the bearing... I know this problem well. Down here in Florida I’ve had some that were so stuck from the saltwater you could have sworn it was welded in there.

    I built this tool to make pulling the shaft quick and easy. This is a $10 claw-foot pry bar from harbor freight. I notched the end out so that it grabs the recess in the shaft (prop-side) where the impeller seal goes. You can then pry against the housing and it will pull it out easily. I used a 6” angle grinder to notch the steel of the pry bar.
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  8. #18
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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  9. #19
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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  10. #20
    martincom's Avatar
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    I built this tool to make pulling the shaft quick and easy. This is a $10 claw-foot pry bar from harbor freight. I notched the end out so that it grabs the recess in the shaft (prop-side) where the impeller seal goes. You can then pry against the housing and it will pull it out easily. I used a 6” angle grinder to notch the steel of the pry bar.
    Yankee ingenuity from a Florida Cracker!

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