Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26
  1. #1

    SVHO & SHO supercharger clutch replacement - step by step instructions with photos

    How in the hell do you get the last two bolts on the bottom off on the oil pick up and distribution?

    I loosened the bolt until it hit the casting. I used a ball end Allen socket but it will only go so far. It looks like you should be able to slide the cover back and the finish taking the bolts out but the cover is loose on the intercooler side but wont budge on the other side.

    I removed the bolt in the middle of the cover and I have accounted for all 12 bolts still won't budge.

    HELP
    Last edited by K447; 03-13-2020 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Title clarity


  2. #2
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    17,729
    +1
    1,555
    Those don’t come off. It’s an easy mistake to make. There is one bolt that’s inside a recess on the front of the oil pump you probably missed

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091

    Which bolts are removed for the oil pump, to get at the SVHO supercharger clutch?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. GP1800 View Post
    Those donít come off. Itís an easy mistake to make.
    There are two bolts tucked behind the oil pump, down low. Those two bolts do not need to be touched.

    The lower bolt is partially blocked by the oil pump but it can Ďseemí almost removable. Leave it alone.





    There is one bolt thatís inside a recess on the front of the oil pump you probably missed
    This bolt is hidden quite far back and impossible to see without a mirror or camera. It does need to be removed.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	593566A1-0B16-495A-9851-FAF1FC67E205.jpg 
Views:	341 
Size:	118.2 KB 
ID:	459022   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	15591C82-36A4-4FE5-AF92-BCD64B394B0F.jpg 
Views:	598 
Size:	83.9 KB 
ID:	459023   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	0B329939-4D92-41AF-905F-AB1E53815369.jpg 
Views:	331 
Size:	99.4 KB 
ID:	459024   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4CE2FCE9-AE16-4533-BC75-6B290A7E1916.jpg 
Views:	597 
Size:	108.5 KB 
ID:	459025  

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091

    SVHO supercharger clutch replacement, oil pump remove

    I am posting photos from a 2017 GP1800 SVHO. We just installed a new supercharger clutch a week ago and took photos during the process.

    I donít know if there are any detail differences with the SHO oil pump.

    You will need a new Yamaha oil pump gasket.
    Yamaha part 6S5-13563-00



    Plan to do an oil change and install a new oil filter at the same time.
    I use Yamaha YamaLube 4W (4W is for Yamaha watercraft, 4M is for Yamaha outboard motors)

    The Motorcraft FL400S oil filters have been working well for me. Widely available and not expensive for the genuine Ford filter, be sure not to buy a counterfeit.


    You will also need to have a new Yamaha supercharger clutch, of course.


    There is an aftermarket tool for holding the clutch gear while torquing the central bolt on and off. Makes the job much easier.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3061904



    First step is to remove the oil from the engine. I use a Mityvac 7201 to extract as much oil as possible from the engine crankcase via the dipstick tube.

    There will be additional trapped oil that will spill out when the oil pump is removed. Lay multiple layers of shop rags and/or paper towels down under the front area of the engine.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091
    To gain working room remove the air intake hose from the air filter.

    I have the aftermarket Riva cold air intake kit. It can be removed in one piece.
    Remove the nut for the intake bracket, right under the lip of the seat opening. Donít drop the nut/washer. Flex the intake+ bracket a little until it is free of the threaded stud.
    Loosen the hose clamp at the supercharger and wiggle the entire assembly forward. Once free of the supercharger the entire thing can be maneuvered out of the hull.

    Next item is the metal oil tube. There are banjo bolts at each end and a single clamp bolt in the middle.
    When removing the banjo bolts and the tube, be aware that there are four flat selling washers, both sides of both ends of the banjo fittings. These are special washers, do not lose them.
    With both end bolts (and washers) removed and the center clamp bolt, lift the oil tube out and put it somewhere clean.



    Note: I have sprayed CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor on this engine. Some of it dribbled down the front of the supercharger before it dried, which is why the supercharger looks dirty.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	95F568E1-4DD3-48A6-8252-5EE203719906.jpg 
Views:	291 
Size:	97.6 KB 
ID:	459029  

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091
    Before the supercharger can be unbolted the upper bracket for the intercooler must be removed.
    First remove the upper air hose between supercharger and intercooler.



    Intercooler bracket and supercharger removal are documented here.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2888496






    Supercharger removal documented here.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2888508





    I re-used the rubber seal under the supercharger.
    The proper method, of course, is to use a new seal during reassembly.
    Last edited by K447; 05-02-2020 at 10:11 AM.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091
    Remove the oil pump.



    There are 12 M6 bolts (item 22) of 20mm length holding the oil pump to the front of the engine, with 5mm hex drive socket heads.



    While most of these bolts are somewhat visible and ‘obvious’ there are a couple that are tricky.

    Per this post, one bolt is deeply recessed into the face of the oil pump.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3063615



    And there is a bolt ‘below’ and slightly behind the oil pump, which is NOT to be removed.



    Do not loosen any of the ‘normal’ hex head bolts on the front of the oil pump.

    With the correct 12 bolts removed, you should be able to wiggle the oil pump away from the engine. Be careful about prying as you do not want to damage the mating surfaces. At all.

    The oil pump has two metal dowel pins (item 25 in diagram) that hold it in alignment to the engine. As you pull the oil pump straight forward away from the engine, watch that you do not lose the small dowel pin(s) into the bilge or onto the rags soaking up the newly spilled oil.

    Dowel pin location, for left side of oil pump.


    There is also a stubby metal hollow oil feed tube (item 27) down low behind the oil pump. It has an orange o-ring (item 26) which you must not damage.

    Actually there is a second o-ring on the back end of the same tube. If the tube gets pulled out, make sure both o-rings are in place before re-assembly.
    If there is any doubt whether an o-ring might be damaged/cut/misshapen, replace with new. An oil leak (even a small leak) can result in severe engine damage if not detected in time.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	EF677D93-7A5E-4D20-BD9D-5624344A7268.jpg 
Views:	279 
Size:	140.4 KB 
ID:	459031   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	31DB1010-B645-46D4-A764-47FBB2D2ABBC.jpg 
Views:	337 
Size:	113.5 KB 
ID:	459032   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	F98E76EB-E3CF-4ABC-8248-A96AF758EC48.jpg 
Views:	273 
Size:	96.7 KB 
ID:	459033  
    Last edited by K447; 03-14-2020 at 01:52 AM.

  8. +1 by:


  9. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091
    With the oil pump removed and set aside somewhere clean, make sure both dowel pins have been accounted for.

    Now remove the old gasket. On my engine the old gasket was partially stuck on the oil pump and gasket fragments were still on the engine.

    I used a new single edged razor blade to carefully scrape the old gasket material off. It is imperative that the smooth metal surfaces not be gouged, on either the engine or the oil pump. Also make sure no old gasket bits get into the open engine or oil pump.

    You need the engine and the oil pump mating surfaces to be perfectly clean, no gasket bits, no surface damage.

    I put both dowel pins into the oil pump and later used them to align the new gasket.

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091
    Remove the idler gear (item 2 in diagram)



    Somehow I forgot to take photos of this.

    Slide the pin (item 1) straight forward and out of the engine. It can be tricky to get it moving. I think I used a blade edge or something to catch the side of the pin and shift it forward bit by bit, until I could get my fingers or a tool on the front end of the pin and pull it out.

    Donít let the idler gear fall when the pin comes out.

    Lift the idler gear out of the engine. Make note of the gear orientation.

    And make sure none of the small parts/bushings fall into the engine or go missing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2FE3AACB-A68F-4473-8B95-554442292395.jpg 
Views:	264 
Size:	98.4 KB 
ID:	459034  

  11. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    41,846
    +1
    2,091

    Remove the SVHO supercharger clutch

    Attach the special aftermarket clutch holding tool.
    Apparently the tool sold by Caltric is essentially the same as the one shown here.





    Note: The bolt in the center of the supercharger clutch is a LEFT HAND THREAD bolt.
    To remove the bolt you will be turning the bolt CLOCKWISE.

    This bolt has a hex recess head.
    I forget which size of metric hex drive is needed.

    Loosen the center bolt using a long handle ratchet drive. We had to use a 1/2 drive wrench to torque the bolt free.

    The aluminum holding tool should not damage the oil pump housing, but take care that the tool is fully seated on the clutch gear and pressed firmly against the side of the opening before you start torquing the wrench on the center bolt.

    Reminder - CLOCKWISE rotation to loosen this bolt.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	264430BF-B1DE-4A78-BD42-60C0CCCD5625.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	118.3 KB 
ID:	459037

    Remove the center bolt, then slide the clutch forward and out of the engine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	B8BDC5F8-2F2B-4D0A-88FF-F3626E491BA9.jpg 
Views:	271 
Size:	75.8 KB 
ID:	459035   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2DB7F216-CBDC-41B1-96F1-CD5EA2E7BDCC.jpg 
Views:	282 
Size:	121.1 KB 
ID:	459036  

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Step by Step for Checking Proper Supercharger Slip
    By MIARider in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 07-18-2018, 02:43 PM
  2. Step by step removal instructions
    By chrisnatca in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-09-2014, 11:10 PM
  3. My Blue Ski - step by step instructions
    By philip_gpr in forum Yamaha Projects & Build Threads
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 07-30-2012, 05:32 AM
  4. Carb rebuild step by step instructions
    By f28pilot in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-30-2012, 12:41 AM
  5. GP1530R Stage II+++ Step by step instructions
    By philip_gpr in forum Yamaha Projects & Build Threads
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 06-08-2008, 10:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •