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  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Now the engine looks like this. *



    The timing chain and the two vertical plastic guides for the timing chain are visible.

    Make sure there is no damage and no bits of debris laying in the engine. There shouldn’t be, of course, but look anyways.


    Now the new clutch can be installed. Make sure you put it in with the front side facing the front, same orientation that the old clutch had.

    You may have to jiggle the clutch to get it to fully seat in place.



    Thread the center bolt back in after oiling the threads (see service manual instructions).
    Again, it is left hand threaded so you must turn it ‘backwards’ to get it to thread in.

    Put the special holding tool on the supercharger gear.



    Torque the center bolt to 59 foot-pounds. #
    IIRC the hex drive size is 17mm.

    # Be careful with the torque. If you break the bolt or damage the threads in the engine you will not be happy.
    Use a decently calibrated torque wrench. Maybe one with electronic LCD and audible readout.
    An El-cheapo click type from Hazard Fright might not be the best choice.


    * Also visible are all 12 holes where the oil pump attachment bolts thread into the engine.
    Use this photo to help locate the lower bolts that are difficult to see for removal/reinstallation.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 03-14-2020 at 09:03 AM.

  2. #12
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Reinstall the idler gear and pin.



    Make sure the front face of the gear is facing forward.
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  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Reinstall the oil pump.



    Yamaha wants the oil pump to be pre-filled with oil.
    In my case the pump still had (most of) the old oil.

    Using the two dowel pins in the oil pump, align the new gasket on the oil pump.
    Or, if you prefer, put the two pins in the engine and stick the gasket in place on the engine.

    Make note of the oil tube with o-ring down low on the engine. You want that to slide smoothly into the oil pump without misalignment or snagging.

    Carefully slide the oil pump straight onto the front of the engine. The oil pump drive into the clutch center, the two dowel pins and the oil tube must all line up.

    Hold the pump firmly against the engine and thread in 2-3 of the bolts. Snug them to hold the pump, then install the rest, just snug.

    When all 12 of the bolts are ready, torque them to 8 foot-pounds using a 5mm hex drive.

    At this point the new clutch is installed along with the oil pump.

    Check your work so far. No left over bolts or dowel pins.
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  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Reinstall the supercharger, as described here.
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2888562

    Use some clean rags to wipe off all oily surfaces around and under the oil pump.

    After the engine is first run, you will want to know if it is leaking any oil. Much easier to tell if the oil pump area is clean and dry beforehand.


    Reinstall the bracket for intercooler.


    Reinstall the air hose between supercharger and intercooler.


    Remove old oil filter and install new oil filter.

    Tip: Place absorbent rags or paper towels under the oil filter area and some more pressed against the engine. This will minimize the mess while unscrewing the old oil filter.

    Refill engine with YamaLube 4W oil.

    Mark on the engine hour counter reading in the oil filter.
    I use a Sharpie type marker.

    In my case, since some ‘additional’ oil was lost out the front when the oil pump was removed, the engine took the entire 1 US gallon jug of oil.
    I first poured in most of the gallon, then checked the oil level after the first couple of test starts and short idles.*

    After the engine has been run for a short while (maybe 20 seconds), shut it down and check carefully for oil leaks. Feel around the bottom and sides of the oil pump, and feel the hull interior underneath the engine.

    Tip: Before even starting this project, extract/vacuum/mop out all water/whatever from the bilge under the engine. Clean and dry bilge makes it nicer to work down there and easier to tell if something is leaking afterwards.

    * The engine should be level across the top of the coil packs. Let the engine sit for a few minutes after each short run, then check the oil level.

    Oil level does not need to be at the absolute top ‘full’ mark on the dipstick. Just somewhere well above the lower marking and nicely between the two.

  5. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Reinstall the air supply hose/duct to the supercharger.*

    Make sure all the air hose clamps are correctly positioned and tight.


    During the first water test, I suggest checking the oil level after a short ride. Then check it again after riding a while longer.

    If the oil level is stable and not declining, then there probably is no oil leak.

    When you get it back on the trailer, check the oil level again AND feel around the oil pump for possible oil seepage.

    Hopefully all is good and you can enjoy the restored boost power from the new supercharger clutch.


    * If your engine still has the factory Yamaha air filter, now would be a good time to check that it is not wet or in need of replacement.

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  7. #16
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    I just have to say that was an excellent post K447! My hat is off to you for the great work!


  8. #17
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    We were working on this and decided that a bunch of good pics and description of everything was needed. There are various threads around here but not a lot of detail in doing this job. It’s a relatively easy job to do. The worst part is finding all of the bolts to remove the oil pump. Someone who has done this job once or twice should be able to do it in about 2 hours or so.

  9. #18
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    To me the worse part is the gasket...last time I got the rubber/metal reusable that's supposed to come off easier.

    to get stock off. I used a red scotch bright pad on a air rotor/drills cleans it off quick and easy and not grinding the aluminum to much. I stuff a t shirt into the motor before so nothing can fall into the chain, or oil. Then once done remove and whipe clean. Same for pump on bench.

    forst time I did one. The bottom bolt. Under the pump in the upside down V (second hardest bolt. First being the one in the hole. Was has the Allen stripped.....

    forcing a ease out upside down like that was a bitch. All bolts replaced with stainless then. Ha

  10. #19
    Hey.

    Great post!

    So I have just replaced my clutch. But when I pre-fill the oil pump and try to re-assemble, Some of the oil leaks out due to the mounting angle. And I guess the rest flows into the oil pan. Is this ok or do I somehow need to make sure that most of the oil stays in the pump?

  11. #20
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloatR View Post
    ... when I pre-fill the oil pump and try to re-assemble, some of the oil leaks out due to the mounting angle. ...

    Is this ok or do I somehow need to make sure that most of the oil stays in the pump?
    I did not worry about it. Filled the oil pump as best I could, then reassembled onto the engine.

    70 running hours since the supercharger clutch change, no issues.


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