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  1. #1

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    Newb with a mystery project 1999 Ultra 150

    I purchased a pair of '99 Ultra 150's from an estate sale. Needless to say i don't have the luxury of asking the previous owner what he was up to or what he did, but he was obviously into these things.
    The first ski runs fine and is mostly stock. It's not the mystery.
    The second ski appears to be his "go fast" ski. It's got obvious upgrades: Nozzle, ride plate, Beach house, triple pisser, ProK FA's, R&D Heads, stinger mod. Problem is the previous owner had taken it apart and didn't get it back together before he passed. The motor is sitting in the hull without mount bolts, heads removed and exhaust removed. Only thing I can think he may have been doing is fixing a head gasket leak (heads are off and he has new o-rings and studs in a box) and he may have replaced the oil pump (looks like maybe a new pump and lines).
    Anyways... I have never worked on a ski and I am trying to get her up and running this spring so I may be back to y'all for help at some point. I have the stock heads, exhaust and air box so I plan to put everything back to stock that I can (don't shoot me - i have two teenagers and they don't need anymore speed).
    I'm looking forward to the forum and I've already read lots of your posts. I will also be posting some of the aftermarket parts for sale when I get around to it.
    Bye for now - Wish me luck!


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard, ratpac4!

    The nozzle, ride plate, Beach House sponsons, triple pisser, and stinger mod won't make it significantly faster, so I'd leave them alone. In fact, the triple pisser mod is considered necessary by most Ultra 150 owners.

    What do the pistons look like? The aftermarket flame arrestors will tend to make it run lean, unless the carbs were modified. The R&D heads will boost compression, requiring higher octane fuel.

    The oil lines go bad on these with age, so he probably replaced them because of that. The throttle cable for the oil pump tends to fray, too, so look at that. Make sure the oil lines are going to the correct places!!! (You NEED a service manual).

    Without knowing it's history, I'd go back with stock heads and stock flame arrestor.

    While the engine is loose in the hull, I'd pull it and replace the driveshaft seal and bearing (the 'holder'). I'd recommend the Rhaas polyurethane holder. Depending on the hours on it, I'd probably replace the engine mounts, too.

    While you have the exhaust system off, I'd upgrade the two long bolts to the larger bolts used on the later models. You'll have to drill out the holes in the exhaust pipe, as well as the drill out and tap the holes in the manifold.

    Keep an eye on the hose that goes into the water box. It tends to come loose when the stinger mod is done unless you convert to T-clamps.

    There are a number of other things that you should look at, but I think the most important right now is to remove the displays from both 'Skis and seal the rubber plugs and wires on the back. If you get water in them, you're screwed. And these things will tip over easily.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the feedback. I put her back together with stock exhaust, stock heads. The motor mounts appear to be new and the oil pump cable looks good.
    Once I got everything back together she fired up - first try! I replaced the fuel filter so it took a few cranks to get fuel, but as soon as it made it to the carbs - vroom!
    Running (out of the water on trailer) the pump sounds as if the impeller might be rubbing the walls? Feedback please.

    Other than that it seems ready to go.
    I backed the trailer with both skis into the water and ran them for a few. Water coming out of all three pissers. No water in the hull. No fuel or oil leaks detected. I didn’t ride because I was by myself and didn’t want to be stranded if something broke.

    The other ski is unfortunately taking on water. I could see water coming through the shaft holder bolts (not the bearing/seal). I assume something behind that is leaking. Tackling that is my next project.
    I would take any hints or feedback on that issue too!

    Thanks again!

  4. #4
    Your driveshaft holder has ripped very common, replace with a nice rhaas or wsm.

  5. #5

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    Thanks. I was hoping I didn’t have to pull the motor but I guess I don’t have a choice.

  6. #6
    I have just lifted it and pull the shaft out in the past.

  7. #7

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    So I disconnected the driveshaft holder and pulled it forward. I found a small tear in the membrane about an eighth of an inch long.
    I applied three thin coats of 5200 over three consecutive days being careful not to get any on the driveshaft or the flange area.
    I used white 5200 so I could see any area that wasn’t covered.
    After curing for 24 hours I used “The right stuff” on the flange area and retorqued the bolts to factory spec.
    I let it cure for 48 hours.
    Tested and no more leak! We rode for about 30 minutes in choppy water with a few WOT runs.
    Not sure how long this will last but seems promising for a half-assed attempt.
    Fingers crossed.

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    If you do any jumping, you'll probably blow it out the first time you land.

  9. #9
    I would replace it now, i have had one of those go bad while i was on the lake and the ski almost sank. Why chance this?

  10. #10
    steve45's Avatar
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    Does it have an electric bilge pump? This is a very good reason to have one!

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