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  1. #1

    2010 GTX 155 Driveshaft

    I reticently purchased a used 2010 GTX 155 with 237hrs. Ive read that the 2010s have issues with the driveshafts stripping. How can I tell if I have the original shaft? Ive already looked under the ski and the shaft has surface rust and does not have a rubber coating on it. I water tested it before purchase and it ran great. just trying to figure out if the shaft has been replaced by a previous owner or not. From the reading I did it seemed most of the shafts failed around the 100hr or less mark.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by philbbar715 View Post
    I reticently purchased a used 2010 GTX 155 with 237hrs. Ive read that the 2010s have issues with the driveshafts stripping. How can I tell if I have the original shaft? Ive already looked under the ski and the shaft has surface rust and does not have a rubber coating on it. I water tested it before purchase and it ran great. just trying to figure out if the shaft has been replaced by a previous owner or not. From the reading I did it seemed most of the shafts failed around the 100hr or less mark.
    The original one had the rubber coating... But I suppose that could have been removed, although I doubt it, as it seems difficult to remove it (I did the shaft upgrade in my 2010 RXT-X 260 RS) The only other way to tell, would be to look at the carbon ring anf hat... The original 2010 shaft made use of a screw on hat... While the upgrade makes use of the normal C-clip and hat... So if you have the C-clip, then its the new shaft...

  3. #3

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    There you go
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  5. #4

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    I dont think a 155 hp ski is powerful enough to strip that shaft splines. A little bit of surface rust is normal. Apply triple guard grease in the prop splines when winterize and you will be fine.

  6. #5
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    You would have thought the screw on hat was a better idea. Simpler, easier to service. Too bad it was abandoned rather than the problems resolved.

  7. #6
    In this photo, which one of the clamps do i need to loosen and pull back the rubber housing? The boot itself is very clean, shiny, and new looking (newest looking piece in the ski honestly). And yes I know the inside hull is disgusting, thats on the list to get clean once warm weather hits.

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  8. #7

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    No need to loosen clamps... Just "flip" this rubber up/back towards the motor...
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  9. #8
    im assuming this is the dreaded 2010 original shaft? Since this is the 155, is 10 years old, and has been 237hrs it should have failed by now right? I dont really feel like spending $400 to replace the shaft if this one has been holding up fine for this long. If I take the impeller off can I inspect the shaft at that end since thats where it seems like most of these strip?
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  10. #9
    www.eastcoastpwc.net Scott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philbbar715 View Post
    im assuming this is the dreaded 2010 original shaft? Since this is the 155, is 10 years old, and has been 237hrs it should have failed by now right? I dont really feel like spending $400 to replace the shaft if this one has been holding up fine for this long. If I take the impeller off can I inspect the shaft at that end since thats where it seems like most of these strip?
    Sorry, you have the dreaded 2010 screw driveshaft. Correct, splines typically strip on the prop end. Pull pump and inspect the shaft!

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