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  1. #1
    Benn's Avatar
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    Waveblaster 2 Engine - Listening to engine and what to look for?

    So over the weekend I will be starting the ski up and try and look/listen for some hints as to whether itís sounding ok or not.

    First Q:


    Now I know they are (from research) quite noisy, especially with the seat off and open - But what are the main things that should tell me whether itís ok, not ok or turn it off immediately?

    Iíll take a video and post here for all to see!

    Second Q

    If I choose to inspect - What should I look for, common problems and what do I need to do first should I dog a bit deeper and want to open up the engine and drive assembly?

    What tends to stay ok, wear fast or cause problems? (couplers/crank/big/small-end/conrods/reeds/wear ring/impeller etc)

    The ski has low hours but I donít know how itís been taken care of, flushed etc...


    PS - This is part of my main thread where I am busy attempting to get my ski in mint condition, link:


    Some pics of the engine Iíll be listening to and maybe opening up (And just some of the engine bay):

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  2. #2
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    One thing to remember, out of the water the engine will be idling at a higher rpm then it will while in the water. It will also rev easier, quicker, and "healthier". The true test will be once you drop it in the water and start it up. At that point you want to be looking for any signs of bogging/hesitation when giving it throttle. As well as inability to idle by itself.

    Then once you have verified that you can work towards WOT runs and doing "plug chops". Which is where you can hold a certain range of rpm and then kill ignition and check what the spark plugs look like to determine if it is running rich or lean at that throttle range. You can search online on how to "read" spark plugs. Keep in mind, 2 strokes have a bit different look then 4 strokes due to the oil burning.

    You are right, they will sound very noisy with the hood up and running out of the water. You want to mainly be listening for any knocking sounds and any misfiring.

  3. #3
    Benn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raiderteen View Post
    One thing to remember, out of the water the engine will be idling at a higher rpm then it will while in the water. It will also rev easier, quicker, and "healthier". The true test will be once you drop it in the water and start it up. At that point you want to be looking for any signs of bogging/hesitation when giving it throttle. As well as inability to idle by itself.

    Then once you have verified that you can work towards WOT runs and doing "plug chops". Which is where you can hold a certain range of rpm and then kill ignition and check what the spark plugs look like to determine if it is running rich or lean at that throttle range. You can search online on how to "read" spark plugs. Keep in mind, 2 strokes have a bit different look then 4 strokes due to the oil burning.

    You are right, they will sound very noisy with the hood up and running out of the water. You want to mainly be listening for any knocking sounds and any misfiring.
    Great advice - Starting it out of the water today and will report back!

    Pulled the external pump out and the impeller housing lining is warped so the impeller is stuck!

    At least I can run the engine fine now, or try to.

    Will do the plug checks also. Obviously better under load as you said.

  4. #4
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Common occurrence for older skis with original wear ring housings. Especially when they are used in salt water. Shouldn't be too bad finding a replacement. You do have the option of going with a aftermarket unit with plastic wear ring. Personally I prefer the original stainless style. They are more expensive however.

  5. #5
    Benn's Avatar
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    Before my engine shenanigans, I pulled the external pump assembly out to avoid any drama when I run the engine (A member recommended this - I would not have know to do this).

    Got all the long bolts out of the casings except one, the head stripped.

    Casing are very dirty on the outside and impeller is stuck in the wear ring. Impeller has some superficial corrosion, nothing too bad that canít be polished.

  6. #6
    Benn's Avatar
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    So some feedback on the action plan for the external pump:

    Iím sending the casings (still held together by that one bolt) to an engineering shop -

    1. Theyíll remove that one bolt
    2. Bead blast the impeller and duct housing exterior
    3. Light hone the high spots and check 0.6mm gap between sleeve and impeller (Is that the correct gap?)
    4. Polish the sleeve
    5. Polish the impeller

    After talking to some people I was advised not to paint the housings and to retain the aluminum as is after the bead blast. Alum just traps moisture under coating...

    Shaft will be ice blasted and polished.

    I donít know the state of the bearings yet but it has almost no non-rotational lateral movement n which means they should still be ok. Will see when itís apart.

    Everyone happy that I keep the aluminum uncoated?

    Now I just need that long bolt - Will have to look around to see if anyone has it. Specialist bolt shop?

    Oh and rideplate is getting bead blasted and powdercoated or anodized.

    Will have to get shims made up to align shaft into short shaft - Not sure yet how to ensure alignment when refitting.

    The entire external pump assembly will look brand new again.

    Next up what happened wit the engine...

    PS - Is it possible to insert a new stainless sleeve into the housing? If the high spot honing fails...



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Benn's Avatar
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    Oh and this is what the external pump looked like - funny how this looked really bad on the outside but the rest of the ski is in really good nic...

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    Will post AFTER photos when I get it back from its makeover.

    Q:

    How do I stop the exhaust staining it, or is that from running it on land and not cleaning afterwards?

  8. #8
    Benn's Avatar
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    Now the good stuff, I was most afraid of what the engine was going to say to me:


    Pre-flight checks: I replaced both plugs, checked spark, checked that the oil hose has oil in it and even just went with the existing fuel (I know it would have been better to run new fuel but I thought Iíd try that fuel).

    Connected the water, pulled the choke out and pressed the starter button.

    Started almost instantaneously!

    Ringdingggdingsingriiiingsingding

    Crisp, idles buttery smooth and revs up on a dime.

    Choke was back in and it didnít miss a beat.

    Mechanic that was with me said it sounded like it was brand new - We let it warm up and the revved it, man it screams and is actually not that ďbad noisyĒ people sometimes describe them. Sounds like a banshee motor.

    We then switched it off, let it cool down and checked compression: About 107 psi on both, negligible variance between them, maybe 4psi.

    And it sounds like it looks, literally brand new.

    We then drained the fuel tank, removed it and the 2t tank and then cleaned both.

    From the pictures earlier you can see that the tank is still white, not even slightest bit of discoloring.

    All is good for now!

    Unfortunately forgot to take a vid amidst all the excitement, will upload when I run it again!

    Now that I am happy with the engine I need to see if I can get some OEM parts for the ski.

  9. #9
    Benn's Avatar
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    Honing the high spots in the impeller housing - Do I:

    1. Take off the min for it to clear the impeller
    2. Take off whatís needed to get it perfectly round again

    Option 2 would obviously result in better roundess but might result in bigger clearance all round...

    So is uniformity more important than taking off as little as possible at the high spots?

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