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  1. #131
    martincom's Avatar
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    A plug wire is quite a bit easier to obtain than a stator or coil and.....a lot cheaper. So many guys just blindly change parts---that don't need to be replaced and often create additional problems in the process. Kudos to you for not going down that road.

  2. #132
    Well it’s all thanks to you guys haha but I’m learning a lot and I appreciate all the knowledge you guys share.

  3. #133
    Hey guys so yesterday I got a new plug wire and put on and all is well there, but I still having a extremely weak spark.... did some reading on the manual and it looks like the next step may be testing the stator and maybe the capacitor? Checked all wireing for visual damage and didn’t note anything. Any help again would be appreciated thanks.

  4. #134
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    What is the voltage on the injectors while cranking? (Should be around 20VDC). This will give you an idea of the health of the stator and capacitor. (And the EMM only needs about 12V to make monstrous spark.)

  5. #135
    I get a 25v while cranking at the red/white wire at the injectors... the coil checked out good .275 on both primary’s... just kinda lost I’m guessing that just leaves the EMM thyristor??? I think it’s called? Is it worth testing the stator just to be 100% sure it’s not that

  6. #136
    martincom's Avatar
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    When you measured the voltage at the white/red wire of the injectors, did you do so with everything connected or did you unplug something so you could connect the meter probe to a connector pin? Everything must be connected to obtain an accurate voltage measurement. I utilize a small dental pick to slide in between the wire and the sealing boot, from the back of the connector. An unwound paper clip would likely work, as well. The white/red wire is also in the 4-pin diagnostic plug, which is typically near the EMM. It maybe easier to access than those at an injector.

    If you did, indeed, measure 25 vdc, while cranking, at the white/red wire, with everything connected, your stator is OK. A stator failure would result in that voltage being significantly lower.

    If the white/red wire voltage checks OK, your next course of action would be to have your EMM checked. HiPeRcO, dba: Lakeside Tech, I believe will test your EMM at no charge, with the possible exception of return shipping expense. Pursuing other avenues at this point will just result in more work and more expense that will likely be futile. As we're still in the off-season, his turn around time should be very good, also.

  7. #137
    Ok I did check the voltage while everything was hooked up and have the 25 vdc so I’ll start saving my pennies to ship off the emm to lakeside tech! One question what kind of screw is in the 40 pin connector hard to see in there...


  8. #138
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    EMM screw is a 4mm hex

  9. #139

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    I read the answer to this once but I’ve now forgotten. Are the 3 cylinder EMM’s compatible with the 2 cylinders for testing purposes?

  10. #140
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mockingee View Post
    I read the answer to this once but I’ve now forgotten. Are the 3 cylinder EMM’s compatible with the 2 cylinders for testing purposes?

    I wouldn't think so. The two and three cylinder engines utilize the same flywheel, so the timing "nubbs" are the same--even though the actual timing is, obviously, different. The EMM firmware, not the engine personality software, is different for two and three cylinder engines, in part, to distinguish the signal between the timing "nubbs" and provide the correct timing for the engine family.

    That being said, I believe HiPeRcO, dba: Lakeside Tech, has collected the EMM firmware for pretty much every engine family and can re-program an EMM to not only the number of cylinders, but the engine family.

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