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  1. #21
    Anyone use the Healtech diagnostic tool? Looks like an affordable option at about $230


  2. #22

  3. #23
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin11mic View Post
    Anyone use the Healtech diagnostic tool? Looks like an affordable option at about $230
    never heard of this company before I took a look at their website and it looks like for $230 it will do what you need for it to do. There is an expensive option to set the tps, but I doubt you'll need it.

    typically aftermarket code scanners look like they have a fair price, but then the ding you for extras.

    buyer beware

    however it looks like in this case to read the emm codes, it's a win at about half the price of a candoo.

    They also promise lifetime free software updates, but that's not going to be something you'll need

    the candoo is more of a pro level tool as it can support multiple brands. It also charges a yearly software fee for updates, something again, you won't need unless you get a current year ski

    I'd be wary as there is very limited US distribution of this tool but it appears for a code reader you can't beat it on price

    I'd have a chat with one of the two us distributors to get a feel for their operations before dropping a couple of hundred I'd also load the software on your laptop to be sure it actually runs without any difficulty specific to you unit

    sometimes you can pick up an example of the kawasaki kds software and connection cables at a decent price on ebay

  4. #24
    So I decided it had to be a sensor. So I tested every sensor on the darn thing. The TPS was barley out of spec and i was only getting like .1v output voltage on the Intake air pressure sensor. So I swapped both from the donor ski and the F1 light is gone. It’s idling at like 2000 rpm now but that may just be a learning curve once I run it longer. The manual says that when the sensor is bad it switches to alpha-N map so now that it’s back to normal it probably has to relearn. Hopefully that’s the idle issue. Only ran it for 15 seconds or so. Water test is Friday so I will update on how that goes.

  5. #25
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin11mic View Post
    So I decided it had to be a sensor. So I tested every sensor on the darn thing. The TPS was barley out of spec and i was only getting like .1v output voltage on the Intake air pressure sensor. So I swapped both from the donor ski and the F1 light is gone. Itís idling at like 2000 rpm now but that may just be a learning curve once I run it longer. The manual says that when the sensor is bad it switches to alpha-N map so now that itís back to normal it probably has to relearn. Hopefully thatís the idle issue. Only ran it for 15 seconds or so. Water test is Friday so I will update on how that goes.
    This ecu is not a learning one. It won't get better or reset.

    Did you swap the sensors only or the throttle body and tps as a unit?

    Sean

  6. #26
    i pulled the TPS sensor off of the throttle body of the donor because the throttle body was is pretty rough shape and didn't want to use the entire thing. When i started it this morning it was idling at 800ish then after about 5 seconds it reved up to 2000. Its pretty cold out do these have a warmup cycle? Also i dont think the TPS was my issue to begin with so i could put the origonal tps back on and see if it idles correctly. The TPS OHM'd out at like 6.2 ohms and the manual called for 4-6ohms. The TPS out of the donor was like 4.7 ohms.

  7. #27
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    The tps must be reset to the 0 value that the ecu is expecting.

    Do us a favor and unplug the kats sensor off the ski so the ski doesnt go into steering assist while troubleshooting by accident. I ran into this once before when diagnosing a ski.

    When you reinstalled the tps what was the calibration method you used? Be as detailed as possible.

    Sean

  8. #28
    All i did was remove the old tps sensor and install the replacement in the same orientation.

  9. #29
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    See if pressing the mode button makes the beep go away. If it does take it out for a ride.
    You can adjust the idle, though it should idle around 800-1000 rpm in water.
    I had one that would die like yours. It was because of vapor entering combustion zone from a leaking exhaust manifold. The water jacket has a small hole in it.
    If you need an new IAC or anything else I may have what you need. Just no display.
    If you are good with wiring I believe Smokeysevin has done an aftermarket set-up at one time that costs much less. PM him maybe but he doesn't live on here any longer so be patient. He will get back to you though.
    Good luck !! Don't ride it by the way -- you may end up keeping it. LOL It is like a disease.

  10. #30
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    The tps must be reset to the 0 value that the ecu is expecting.

    Do us a favor and unplug the kats sensor off the ski so the ski doesnt go into steering assist while troubleshooting by accident. I ran into this once before when diagnosing a ski.

    When you reinstalled the tps what was the calibration method you used? Be as detailed as possible.

    Sean
    LOL speak of the devil....

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