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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjk6119 View Post
    1)Then the solution could be is fabricating a closed loop cooling system?
    2) Would the anodes on some of these skis need to be replaced that have high hours on them?

    CJ
    this problem occurs when the ski is not flushed properly after salt water use and corrosion of the casting of the head cooling passages occurs.

  2. #32
    fx160's Avatar
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    I had one crack
    And I flush the ski good after every ride
    There was no signs of corrosion in the cooling passages
    I remember starting it in the garage
    And running it for about 30 seconds ( idle only )
    I heard a crack sound
    And think that’s when it cracked
    But I had also had a couple of seats replaced on the head
    And that could have contributed to it

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by fx160 View Post
    I had one crack
    And I flush the ski good after every ride
    There was no signs of corrosion in the cooling passages
    I remember starting it in the garage
    And running it for about 30 seconds ( idle only )
    I heard a crack sound
    And think that’s when it cracked
    But I had also had a couple of seats replaced on the head
    And that could have contributed to it
    were you on water when it cracked.

  4. #34
    fx160's Avatar
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    Obviously I noticed water in the oil when on the water
    But I think it cracked when starting it in the garage
    I just happened to check the oil when stopped midway on a ride
    And was shocked to see it mixed with water
    Towed it back to ramp
    Tried flushing it with fresh oil running it on the hose in between
    But it got worse every time I ran it

  5. #35
    i ment did u have a water hose hooked up to it were you running it in the garage or without a water hose. be interesting to see how many cracked heads were run on land with out a water hose hooked up to the ski and how long and often they were run without a water hose hooked to them.

  6. #36
    fx160's Avatar
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    No hose hooked up
    As it was only for 20 secs at idle
    Maybe less

  7. #37
    fx160's Avatar
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    Replacement head now has 200 hours with 18 pound wheel
    And treat it the same
    Still start it without water
    But 10 secs max now


  8. #38
    John F.'s Avatar
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    With the 3 heads I have had crack, the skis were flushed with salt away after every ride so I doubt there was very much corrosion involved.
    I also let the motor get up to 150F if I have a gauge or about 15 minutes if my ski doesn't have a gauge before getting on the throttle.
    And after a speed run I let the motor cool down before shutting down as well.
    These cracked heads were on built motors, one with a 17lb wheel and two with a 19lb wheel.

  9. #39

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    The posts that I have read here has a bit of a pattern, now this not scientific by no means. The senses with the people with the heads cracking is, they flush their skis with salt away after every ride and some still are having the problems. They let the motor get up to 150F before going out and let the engine idle down before shutting it off and they still have the problems. Most are running a oem thermostat and they have reported problems. People riding in cold water have had the most problems with the heads. The ones with the least reported heads cracking, is the skis that are ridden in warmer waters.


    To avoid a head cracking and excessive heat in the head on long WOT , I installed a thermostat delete kit to day. That way there is never a large amount of heat build up and the head is always warm. The little heat that is in the head, should avoid any cold water shock and keep any excessive heat build up out of the head. The operating temp should be right in the middle of the engine's operating range with the thermostat delete kit now installed.


    I will still do the warm up and shut down routine. I will keep a lookout for gas in the oil and any condensation build up too.


    Take Care
    C J

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by cjk6119 View Post
    The posts that I have read here has a bit of a pattern, now this not scientific by no means. The senses with the people with the heads cracking is, they flush their skis with salt away after every ride and some still are having the problems. They let the motor get up to 150F before going out and let the engine idle down before shutting it off and they still have the problems. Most are running a oem thermostat and they have reported problems. People riding in cold water have had the most problems with the heads. The ones with the least reported heads cracking, is the skis that are ridden in warmer waters.


    To avoid a head cracking and excessive heat in the head on long WOT , I installed a thermostat delete kit to day. That way there is never a large amount of heat build up and the head is always warm. The little heat that is in the head, should avoid any cold water shock and keep any excessive heat build up out of the head. The operating temp should be right in the middle of the engine's operating range with the thermostat delete kit now installed.


    I will still do the warm up and shut down routine. I will keep a lookout for gas in the oil and any condensation build up too.


    Take Care
    C J
    Unless you have a standalone and can dial in (run your ski) perfect AFR as lean as possible you will get GIO. You could possibly restrict water flow to the oil cooler but been there done that. Works decent but I'm full standalone.

    Engine just runs too cool with that restrictor only.

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