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  1. #31

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    I cant take credit for the 2 piece clip idea. Saw it on here a while back. Tried it myself and passed on the info. Still not a fix for alignment issues but helps.

  2. #32
    Makesumwake's Avatar
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    thanks for passing it on!

    im planning to make a post with all the tips/tricks/fixes for common seadoo issues all in one spot. get other users feedback. then once we consolidate it, it could be a sticky.

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  4. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRD View Post
    I cant take credit for the 2 piece clip idea. Saw it on here a while back. Tried it myself and passed on the info. Still not a fix for alignment issues but helps.
    That's my feeling too. I had my engine alignment set several times and my thru hull fitting set by my independent mechanic. I believe it is close since the wobble doesn't start until about 20 hours of use. If the additional clip eliminates the wobble, I believe the wear that I get on the clip will be eliminated.

    Speaking of carbon seal problems, the last three I have had installed failed by disintegrating. My pre-trip inspection is just to look for black powdery residue on the bilge floor. But this is another discussion.

  5. #34
    I switched to the 300 hat on a new drive shaft not too long ago and it’s already wearing the c clip groove. I’m definitely going to do the full circle c clip trick seems like a winner..

    do you still see water in the biilge cause I was seeing water. I’m curious if I will when goes back together

  6. #35

  7. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Makesumwake View Post
    just saved $450 by switching to 2 C-clips. Problem is fixed

    video here
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GU...A7ogM3jAQkB---

    I did what GTRD said. i cut a 2nd C-clip to fill the gap left by the main C-clip. now the floating ring doesn't wobble!


    Hello Sir. Does the smaller circlip stay firm on the shaft before releasing the support ring or better to use some grease? This is my installation. Do you think. It is correct? The bigger circlip can be rotated by hand. Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #37
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetplane View Post
    The bigger circlip can be rotated by hand. Click image for larger version. 

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    The circlip (not cutted) should be tight around shaft. At least you need some force with screwdriver to turn it. Your using new circlip otherwise the drive shaft groove could be worn.

  9. #38
    EVN81's Avatar
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    This thread remind me of some old posts here (which I couldn’t find) where somebody was experimenting with this set up as well and had the experience that the half circlip pushed out the full circlip somehow during full accelerating with all the known effects after. I think it was a modified ski.

    Just some food for thought.

    If all people doing this mod give feedback in future it would help to prove or disprove.

    With enough pressure on bellow with engine position it should be more difficult for the hat to move backwards. During accelerating from a stop creating the vacuum in the jetpump tunnel.

    This is a S3 hull 260 with the latest ‘big hat’ carbon seal kit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by EVN81; 02-24-2020 at 10:54 PM.


  10. #39

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    Compressing the bellow so much puts a lot of pressure on thrust bearings isn t it?

  11. #40
    Mine is new ( the bigger one) but it can be rotated by hand , using some force .it is not free to move but it can be moved .

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