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Thread: Block Removel

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    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Block Removel

    Im thinking of sending my cylinders out to be honed/bored. The head and pto is off, besides the starter how much of a PITA is it to take just the cylinders out. do the pistons just slide down and out. when i ring them can i slide them back in or do the pistons themselves need to be taken apart from the connecting rods and dropped in from top. doing this because there was a small nick in the cylinder wall in one cylinder. if i did this beside cost of rings and boring is there more bolts or parts that cant be reused? Thanks all


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    tiderider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhubbs255 View Post
    Im thinking of sending my cylinders out to be honed/bored. The head and pto is off, besides the starter how much of a PITA is it to take just the cylinders out. do the pistons just slide down and out. when i ring them can i slide them back in or do the pistons themselves need to be taken apart from the connecting rods and dropped in from top. doing this because there was a small nick in the cylinder wall in one cylinder. if i did this beside cost of rings and boring is there more bolts or parts that cant be reused? Thanks all
    You'll need to split the block, probably a good time to replace bearings if there is a lot of hours on the engine.. Remove connecting rod bolts, remove crankshaft and counter balance. The Pistons come out through the top of the block, they can't come out from the bottom or push down and out. I would bore it .5mm over and get a set of Wiseco oversized pistons, Aquasport/eurosport can give you a good deal on them. Piston to wall clearance of .0040, top ring gap at .022 second ring gap at .026. Besides the Bore job/Machining, you'll need the pistons with rings, connecting rod bolts have to be replaced and bearings. Rocker arm bolts need replacing and perhaps a new timing chain. I replaced a complete set of bearings using WSM off ebay for $104 shipped and all clearances were perfect. The bearing quality also appeared awesome.

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    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Wasn't trying to build an entire engine... Already has spring retainer fly wheel bolts valves rocker bolts head gasket head bolts.... I was hoping I could bore it and just ring it but your saying if I bore it will only work with all new cylinders? Maybe I'll look into honing if possible not sure

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    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    What's the life of the crank bearing anyway? Ski has about 185 hours

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    tiderider's Avatar
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    Sounds like you should have a mechanic point things out and explain it to you in person..

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    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Believe me if I had the funds to use a mechanic I would. I do enjoy tinkering though. It's more about the cash thing. Soooooo that makes you guys my mechanic. But if you guys know of a seadoo 4 stroke mechanic in Dayton Ohio let me know. Only shop I know of 105 an hour and booked up last time I checked and will not even glance at a ski unless it's scheduled to be worked on

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    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    I found a set (3) .5 oversized pistons with rings on eBay for 250 super cheap. Comes withe all the gear including rings. I messaged the guy to ask about them. He said they are unbranded pistons he found the factory in China that makes then and gets them cheap he sells many without complaints. What do you guys think

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    !!!! wave jumper !!!! 05_RXP's Avatar
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    Where is the mark in the cylinder can you take a picture.

    i will give you one piece of info. If you do not have the money leave it alone. Buying sub par parts and making one mistake during the process will cost you double or triple what you could barely afford before.

    now if you bore the cylinders you will need new aftermarket pistons and rings, if you just hone the cylinders you could get away with just new rings.

    the only way for you to know what you need is to inspect everything for visual damage. Then you need to measure everything. Have to measure the bores for roundness, then taper and diameter. Then measure your bearings to make sure they are still round, proper diameter and no groves. Then you need to measure your pistons, crank and so on.

    i mean this in the kindest way possible. If you don’t have the skill or money don’t touch it and leave it to a professional

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    Thanks I appreciate it. Ill get a pic of it. I was confident in the springs / retainers / and flywheel bolts. the only thing im worried about is the very very fine clearances needed in the block so i can put thing back together EXACTLY how they came out but when i comes to installing new parts that need custom grinding or micro measuring I wont do it ill send it out. Ill more than likely going to leave it alone. it was pulling hard when i last road it and ran to 75mph so im assuming its not the end of the world. when i get it back together ill do a compression test and hope for the best. I just know if the compression is low then ill have to buy head bolts rocker bolts and head gasket all over again thats what im tryin to avoid

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    So if you plan on pulling it apart again head studs would be the way to go. I wouldn’t recommend running it and would be twice the work but if you wanted to do a compression and leak down test you could always reinstall the factory bolts and head gasket. Of coarse you would have to make sure everything is cleaned extremely will re assemble all your cams and rockers do your compression and leak down. If all is good then put in your new gasket and bolts.

    as for the mark in your cylinder how far down is it? Some guys will suggest if it’s above your top ring height it is not that critical

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