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  1. #1
    Bogartin''s Avatar
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    2002 Virage i oil and fuel line diagram?

    I just picked up a 2002 Virage i for $400. Both cylinders have good compression. Now I want to make sure fuel and especially oil are getting where they're supposed to get. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows where all the oil and fuel lines are supposed to connect? I've taken some pictures of how my oil system is currently connected, any input is appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    First off, click the link below. There is a lot of useful info in there. Spend some time reading up, not just about the Ficht fuel injection system your engine has, but also all the other subsystems and related parts.

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    The fuel injectors are the big things directly on top of the engine. There is a fuel feed hose and a fuel return hose going back to the fuel tank. The fuel pump is electric and is inside the fuel tank. There is a pressure regulator inside the fuel pump housing. It is mandatory that the regulator mounting be reinforced, as these often fall off inside the fuel pump and then the engine risks damage from low fuel pressure.

    The entire engine is controlled by the big EMM module, which has three wire connectors. One huge 40-pin connector and on the other end there are 8 and 12 pin Deutsch connectors.

    The oil injection fittings are on the throttle bodies, under the flame arrestor (air intake) cover. Note that the Ficht type engine requires the factory oil injection system. You can NOT delete the oiling system and instead pre-mix oil into the fuel tank.

    The oil system has nothing to do with the fuel injection system. Other than the control cable from the oil pump that connects where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body shaft.

    The fuel connections to the fuel injectors must be 100% leak free and vibration proof. These engines really shake when running. The photos show some sort of brass hose fittings on the injectors, which were not factory.

    I recommend you read up on how these engines need to be maintained, and go through everything from end to end. There may be other things which have been hacked up, are incorrect or just plain missing entirely.

    Right next to the oil pump on the front of the engine, there are water hose fittings. Water flows through the front cover on the flywheel housing, then flows to and through the EMM engine control computer module. That cooling water then exits at the rear of the hull, at the engine exhaust hull fitting.

    The two cylinder Ficht fuel injected engine has a special water injection solenoid. The solenoid tends to fail so the common approach is to delete the solenoid and related hose connection to the exhaust entirely. This does not negatively affect engine operation. I have posted a how-to thread, including photos.

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  4. #3
    radio-active's Avatar
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    I don't see brass on the injectors -- I see discolored plastic and an "about to fail" split open fuel line, it's even missing the hose clamp. That's a ticking time bomb - literally -- as once you start spraying fuel, the boat can literally explode. DO NOT RIDE it in this condition.

  5. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio-active View Post
    I don't see brass on the injectors -- I see discolored plastic and an "about to fail" split open fuel line, it's even missing the hose clamp. ...
    I think you may be correct.

    I will point out that those 'white' plastic fuel hose connectors for the injectors tend to become brittle with age. Be very careful not to bend or break them as they are no longer available new from Polaris.

    The fuel pressure feeding the injectors is a little over 20 PSI, much more than a carburetor engine.

    It is imperative that the fuel system be 100% leak proof. Even a tiny amunt of leaking fuel is a fire and explosion risk inside the enclosed engine compartment.

    There are tiny o-rings on each plastic injector connector. They can be replaced, and should be if they are at all hardened with age or showing any cracks in the rubber. New ones are available (IIRC Kawasaki has a part number).

  6. #5
    Bogartin''s Avatar
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    @K447

    Awesome, thanks for all the info. Glad to know what I though was an oil line is actually a water line, thought the previous owner may have connected things wrong. Almost done with the solenoid delete now, just waiting on a 470 ohm .5 w resistor to finish it up. I'm going to pull the fuel tank at some point and check the regulator mounting, is there any particular way people typically reinforce them?

  7. #6
    Bogartin''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio-active View Post
    I don't see brass on the injectors -- I see discolored plastic and an "about to fail" split open fuel line, it's even missing the hose clamp. That's a ticking time bomb - literally -- as once you start spraying fuel, the boat can literally explode. DO NOT RIDE it in this condition.

    Haha, no worries. I started pulling hose clamps and ripped off part of the hose trying to remove it before getting the picture. I'm replacing it with 1/4" A1-15 marine grade fuel line.

  8. #7
    Bogartin''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I will point out that those 'white' plastic fuel hose connectors for the injectors tend to become brittle with age. Be very careful not to bend or break them as they are no longer available new from Polaris.

    No other brands that run ficht injectors have something similar? I wonder how well the plastics used in 3d printing would hold up against fuel.

  9. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bogartin' View Post
    ... Almost done with the solenoid delete now, just waiting on a 470 ohm .5 w resistor to finish it up.

    I'm going to pull the fuel tank at some point and check the regulator mounting, is there any particular way people typically reinforce them?
    Solenoid delete, be sure to cap off the fitting at the exhaust manifold.

    Ficht Fuel Pressure regulator reinforcement, there is a detailed thread with photos. Links and more details can be found via the web page from my signature link. You want to do the threaded hose barb method, NOT the cotter pin method.

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bogartin' View Post
    No other brands that run ficht injectors have something similar? ...
    The L shaped fitting can be sourced from some outboard motors with Ficht, IIRC.

    The T shaped connector, much harder to find.

  11. #10
    Bogartin''s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Solenoid delete, be sure to cap off the fitting at the exhaust manifold.

    Ficht Fuel Pressure regulator reinforcement, there is a detailed thread with photos. Links and more details can be found via the web page from my signature link. You want to do the threaded hose barb method, NOT the cotter pin method.


    Oh, ok sorry, I misunderstood you. I was thinking about the fuel pump, I did the water solenoid delete.


    Edit: I can't read tonight apparently. Got the exhaust capped just need everything to prevent the code for it. I'll check out the reinforcement info, may just remove it and install the in-line kawasaki regulator.
    Last edited by Bogartin'; 01-24-2020 at 09:22 PM.

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