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  1. #1

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    What happens when carbon ring fails??

    Hi Guys... I just want to confirm, if the carbon seal (or ring, or whatever you call it ) fails, does it only flood the hull while engine running (back pressure from the pump)… Or does it also leak while floating around with the engine off and waiting for help also...I understand there are worst case scenarios... But what is the norm/average...


  2. #2
    SplishSplash's Avatar
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    Get your engine alignment checked if your worried about the carbon ring failing. Then it's unlikly it will fail.
    I see you have a 2010 RXT-X, so a visual inspection, if your running on the original carbon ring is in order. You can, just by looking, see how true it running.
    Once properly aligned should last easily 200 hrs. I changed mine at 150 hrs and it had very little wear at all. Did not need changing.
    Yet others have gone at 20 hrs, but hardly ever post a pic of the failed ring, but those that do show massive missaligned wear most of the time.

    It will fill with water most cases even with the engine off, if the wear is bad enough. So if your sinking, it will keep going.

  3. #3

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    I've gone through about 5 carbon rings on my '17 RXT and the failure mode was a little different for each failure. If the c-clip that holds the seal (AKA top hat) in place wears or falls out, water will leak in while the ski is stationary. If excessive wear of the ring is occuring, there may only be leakage when the engine is running.

  4. #4
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    This subject has been beat to death on this forum over the years. The 2010 RXT-X has been notorious for poorly factory aligned engine to pump configuration. Once a detailed alignment corrects the issues, all the drive line problems normally go away.

    I personally had the c clip pop loose, which broke the carbon ring / floating ring seal and the ski sank in a matter of seconds, even with 2 bilge pumps running!

    100% of the guys I loaned my alignment tools to found their alignments off also.

    The 2010-2011 OEM driveshaft with the black rubber around it has lots of failures due to poor metallurgy and spline failures.

    Once all of these issues are resolved it is a solid performer, but ass pain getting there..."

  5. #5

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    Thanks Guys... My idea is to put in a "high-water-level alarm" in my hull... If my hull rapidly fills up for some reason, the buzzer will sound and then I can switch the engine off to try and stay afloat... This will ONLY work if the leak is present only with a running engine... I go out to sea up to 18 miles (30km) when fishing, and that damn carbon ring failure always lurks in the back of my mind... Shaft HAS been upgraded to the newer 2011 shaft (without rubber)… Engine has been aligned (but 150 hours ago, maybe time to do it again)… And I do inspect the carbon seal... My first failure on 50hrs was due to engine misalignment, which was corrected after this failure...

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SinWolf View Post
    ... put in a "high-water-level alarm" in my hull... If my hull rapidly fills up for some reason, the buzzer will sound ...
    Use a high capacity bilge pump with automatic electronic water sensing as your 'alarm'. Bilge pump connected to battery power, so not affected by engine running or not running.

    Locate the bilge pump water exit so that you can easily see when bilge water starts to flow out. If there is enough water in the hull to trigger the bilge pump, not only will you immediately know about the problem, the bilge pump will already be working on getting the water out.

    For carbon seal failures, you want to be looking at high flow rate bilge pumps.
    1000+gph, maybe two of them.

    I do not have a Seadoo but I do have the Whale Supersub SS1212 bilge pump installed.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3051071


  7. #7
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Use a high capacity bilge pump with automatic electronic water sensing as your 'alarm'. Bilge pump connected to battery power, so not affected by engine running or not running.

    Locate the bilge pump water exit so that you can easily see when bilge water starts to flow out. If there is enough water in the hull to trigger the bilge pump, not only will you immediately know about the problem, the bilge pump will already be working on getting the water out.

    For carbon seal failures, you want to be looking at high flow rate bilge pumps.
    1000+gph, maybe two of them.

    I do not have a Seadoo but I do have the Whale Supersub SS1212 bilge pump installed.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3051071


    See post 4......

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    See post 4......
    Not installing a bilge pump is never a better idea than installing a bilge pump.

    There will always be some situations where the incoming water flow overwhelms the installed bilge pump capacity.

    Even then the bilge pump was a good thing to have. It provided some level of defence against lesser failures.

    Bilge pump is a risk/insurance thing. It does not prevent water ingress problems. It can buy time against multiple possible sources of water in the hull. An automatic water sensor for the pump will provide an early heads up warning that there is water in there.

    My view, the best scenario is to install a high capacity bilge pump. And then have it NEVER be actually needed.

    But if it is needed some day, most people would be much happier to have it than not have it.


  9. #9

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    Guys just to confirm... I already have an Auto bilge pump installed for normal day to day fishing... I'm now looking at an emergency backup unit with warning system...

  10. #10
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    2 high capacity bilge pumps are very important, especially since your going off shore so far!

    Having the thru hull fittings well above the water line easily in sight is your warning.

    Simple water leaks like hose clamps loose, split exhaust pipes/WB, etc. the bilge pumps should get you to shore. You asked about the carbon seal.......if it loses its tight seal from the floating ring, a LOT of water is coming inside.....the faster you are moving the faster it comes in......been there done that!

    Rechecking your alignment would be a good idea and definitely install a 2nd high capacity bilge pump. GO Fishing and relax.


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