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Thread: Leak down test

  1. #11
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    So if I need new valves..... Maybe rings... Geeeeeez what rings are for my ski and I'd get the lightweight greenhulk valves there cheaper anyway. God this project if going to destroy my marriage

  2. #12
    You wont need new valves unless you want to upgrade them. You can just lap them back in or have a shop give it a valve job reassemble with your new springs/retainers. It's doubtful you need rings if the motor previously ran good, didnt burn oil and have a ton of blow by

  3. #13
    !!!! wave jumper !!!! 05_RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhubbs255 View Post
    So if I need new valves..... Maybe rings... Geeeeeez what rings are for my ski and I'd get the lightweight greenhulk valves there cheaper anyway. God this project if going to destroy my marriage
    Stay calm and don’t jump the gun. You could have some corrosion and pitting. A light lapping job may be all that is needed to seal up your valves. As for the rings there is alway some pressure that work by pass them.

  4. #14
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    Is the torx flange screw re usable it's item 30. I got new rocker arm bolts but not sure on the bolts that hold the head down?

  5. #15
    No you'll need new head bolts

  6. #16
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    Is there a way to check my pistons when I take the head off? I know a. Compression test would have been smart. Other than just looks. I KNOW air way mailing it's way past the pistons when I was using the Riva valve too but not sure if it was a normal amount. Also any direction for the time and chain when I take. Off the head? I'll take the head off TDC and but it back the same? Or am I going to need to re align some things when the head goes back on

  7. #17
    !!!! wave jumper !!!! 05_RXP's Avatar
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    With out removing the pistons you can only check for visual damage. I know when i have done leak down test. With motors that have 5% you can hear a substantial amount of air thru the rings so I would not be to concerned with that as of yet.

    just mark things when you take them apart and put them back the same way. The cam and crank locking tools make it pretty simple. Most stuff can only go one way. I would suggest downloading the shop manual for your machine

  8. #18
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Does anybody know why the head gasket is over a hundred bucks in the store but I can get it from other places for as low as $40. Does anybody really know why it's such a price difference without just saying OEM vs. Aftermarket


  9. #19

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    I would definitely buy an OEM headgasket, the aftermarket ones are cheap for a reason, they aren't made very well and wont last in my opinion, just go OEM and be done with it

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