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  1. #1
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Water pump issue

    Have a 2010 rxpx255 I was replacing the flywheel bolts today and I took off my water pump housing to see no plastic impeller, but on the back of the plastic housing that comes off, it looks like a puddle of plastic that is heated up to the point of melting to the plastic housing. The previous owner had open loop cooling so there was a block plate in front of the water pump housing where all the tubes normally run I guess. Ithis normal to not have an impeller at all? my ski has never overheated or had any problems and generally runs cooler than my closed loop.


  2. #2
    www.eastcoastpwc.net Scott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhubbs255 View Post
    Have a 2010 rxpx255 I was replacing the flywheel bolts today and I took off my water pump housing to see no plastic impeller, but on the back of the plastic housing that comes off, it looks like a puddle of plastic that is heated up to the point of melting to the plastic housing. The previous owner had open loop cooling so there was a block plate in front of the water pump housing where all the tubes normally run I guess. Ithis normal to not have an impeller at all? my ski has never overheated or had any problems and generally runs cooler than my closed loop.
    Post pics to help understand what youíre seeing.


  3. #3
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jhubbs255 View Post
    Have a 2010 rxpx255 I was replacing the flywheel bolts today and I took off my water pump housing to see no plastic impeller, but on the back of the plastic housing that comes off, it looks like a puddle of plastic that is heated up to the point of melting to the plastic housing. The previous owner had open loop cooling so there was a block plate in front of the water pump housing where all the tubes normally run I guess. Ithis normal to not have an impeller at all? my ski has never overheated or had any problems and generally runs cooler than my closed loop.
    No there should be a plastic impeller.

  4. #4
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    ok so i see in the open loop KIT it comes with an impeller housing that looks similar to mine but still no clue on how the impeller melted

  5. #5
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Myself and others with high boost-high Reving turbos REMOVE the water pump impeller intentionally with open loop cooling. Having too much water pressure in this configuration causes all kinds of problems.

  6. #6
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    When I purchased the ski it was at 74.mph. the guy did some stuff but it had a stock charger on it. I'm going to run a 137+4 with no more than 15psi. With open loop can I replace the impeller or should I leave it just an open space? How does the waster get pushed threw the system

  7. #7
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    All water brought into the ski comes from the pump.

    Your choice of putting back to stock cooling. Since you are up north in cooler temps I would suggest going back to stock. Just got to have all the components to do so.

    Less stuff in the hull makes open loop setup to work around the hull easier.

    You are not going to see any performance gain / loss either way.

  8. #8
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Alright. I'm definitely staying open loop. So just to understand better. The jet pump housing forces water into the system through the little hole in the pump pushing it through the system. What does the water pump impeller do anyways? Does the plastic. Impeller spin engine powered or does the water just spin it? What's the purpose of it if the pump tunnel is already pushing it with 30 ish psi

  9. #9
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Because stock setup was closed loop, no pump reassure to push it through the block. It needs an engine driven impeller to circulate the coolant.

    Open loop uses pump pressure to circulate water for cooling, IC, etc. If the water pump impeller is in place it simply increases water pressure and flow. On high rpm engines it can be too much, causing oil cooler issues.

    Since you are not running high 9500+ rpm, reinstall an impeller. Having said that, you mentioned melted parts. I would pull the engine, remove the PTO housing, replace the oil seal on the back side of the water pump housing, the seal on the water side of the housing, and a new water pump impeller. You MUST use a press for both of these seals or you will damage them both. Check for water coming from the weep hole on the right rear of the block/pto housing.

    Link below from an old thread shows water pump, impeller, both seals, and weep hole.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...ight=Weep+hole



    Read the Shop manual regarding this procedure, it is not difficult just time consuming!
    Last edited by jpt7779; 01-11-2020 at 09:11 PM.

  10. #10
    Jhubbs255's Avatar
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    Sounds good I'll order everything. I have a press at my shop I think that will do the trick. The bolt the impeller goes on its a little rusty and the seal around that has some corrosion so it needs done either way. Thank you guys. Keep the info coming

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