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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by moparguy View Post
    A big mistake we all have made at some point is tried to cheap out on the trailer.
    Buy a Triton Trailer, hands down best handling trailers on the market. Price point they are within a couple hundred of most trailers.
    i could not agree any more on this statement ^^^, mine was around 1200 with spare tire, but well worth it !.

  2. #32
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    I'm a big guy...250 lbs, and 5'10". I love my cruiser seat on my FX. The supercharged models burn almost the same amount t if gas as the HO models if you ride conservatively. If you ever ride a supercharged model you will be sold on it!

  3. #33
    I feel like I owe a quick status report here.
    Last week I bought 2020 FX Cruiser HO in blue, on 2018 (new) Triton trailer, with OEM cover, no extra warranty $15700 OTD at closest to my home official waverunner dealer. Pretty sure I could do better than that. But I was worn out by thinking over and over it for last few months. If only I could wait till fall.... or willing to go 3.5 hours one way to a dealer who had 2019 FX Cruiser HO still in crate... But what is done, done. I think, buying from local dealer let's me establish hopefully longterm relationship for services and so forth


  4. #34
    Man congrats! You and your family will love it. You'll have a peace of mind knowing it's you that put the hours on it. Hopefully they worked in a service contract with you. I always want that the first couple seasons at least.

  5. #35
    LivingSlow, thank you!
    I already took it to Lake Lanier two times already and carefully broke it in. She runs very fast and make me smile just recalling the ride.

    One thing bugging me is that I am not sure my dealer set up trailer properly. Bunks' feet have some range - they can go wider and anrrower and 3 of them were set the same and on was in its lowest/narrowest position. Making my PWC sitting a bit of center and at the angle. I put the foot symmetrically with the other side but now I doubt if my dealer really fine tuned the trailer for my specific model. Is there a written official reommendations from Yamaha on how their products should be secured on trailers. I didn't find anything like that online or on their site. In fact, they don't even have a customer service email or form to contact them with the question. Thinks in doubt:
    1. If this model of trailer actually designed to carry the weight and dimensions of my PWC
    2. If the winch and the stop are adjusted the forward/backward to ensure right amount of weight distribution between the excel and the tong.
    3. it the height of of the stopping roller is right (now it is pushing against horizontal rib and it doesn't look proper)
    4. if the the bunks are at the optimal distance from each other. I think the wider they are spread, the more stable the PWC on the trailer is.

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  6. #36
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Somewhere on here I have posted info on configuring a Triton trailer to match the hull. I don’t have time to find the links right now, but some searching should find the threads.

    Bunks should fit between the ridges in the hull bottom. Wider is better, but the hull needs to be kept away from contact with the trailer structure.

    The Triton front winch post is highly adjustable.

    On my own Triton I replaced the factory blue bow rollers with orange Stoltz rollers. The factory blue rollers can easily abrade the soft Yamaha paint. Search for Stoltz on here to see my photos.


  7. #37
    K447, Thanks
    I will try to find it. Meanwhile Triton customer service sent me PDF instructions posted here. Turns out this trailer is not really designed to fit FX... unless mine is defective or something.

    Bunks, when spread apart at the max of their range, are still not far enough from each other to fit nicely between two strakes (those ridges). Right now half of the weight is pressing one of the strakes against the bunk... It needs extra couple of inches so it would look like in the drawing. If I pull bunks close - it probably will make the Waverunner a lot less stable on the trailer.

    Still in question how far PWC should sit on the trailer to have right weight distribution. I don't feel like my dealer did a good job setting it all up... I'd think the winch should pull PWC forward and two belts in the back should pull back, right?

    I
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  8. #38
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    How much farther apart do the bunks need to shift in order to juuust fit between the hull strakes?

    Depending on how much more sideways shift is needed, there are some options. Other than sliding the bunk support brackets partially out beyond the outer ends of the support slots welded to the frame.

    The bunk brackets screwed to the underside of the bunks can be shifted offset from the wood bunk center line. Don’t re-screw the brackets too far away from the bunk centerline but a modest offset might gain you 1/2” or 3/4” offset on each bunk. Overall gain might be 1.5 inches wider between the bunks.

    Change to 2x3 wood bunks from the factory 2x4 bunks. The narrower bunks will give you about an inch overall between the two. You might need to add/increase the strength/stiffness of the aluminum L ‘beam’ that is bolted to the underside of each bunk.

    Last option is to have an aluminum fabricator relocate the existing factory bunk support/slot pieces on the frame. Basically cut them off and re-weld all four farther out on the frame cross members, much closer to the trailer outer frame rails.

  9. #39
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anechets View Post
    ...

    ... how far PWC should sit on the trailer to have right weight distribution. I don't feel like my dealer did a good job setting it all up... I'd think the winch should pull PWC forward and two belts in the back should pull back, right?
    ...
    Hull location front/rear on the trailer is primarily determined by the desired/required tongue weight. Typically (rule of thumb) is that you want 7-10% of the total trailer weight (PWC with full fuel and gear load + full trailer weight) to be on the tow ball.

    You move the hull forward to increase tongue weight, move it rearwards to lessen the tongue weight on the tow ball.

    The winch tower and bow roller location determine the hull position. Loosen the winch base (and/or loosen the nuts that hold the bottom of the sliding winch rail) and move the winch tower forward (if the trailer seems to be light on tongue weight from the dealer). Then move the hull forward until you have the desired tongue weight.

    Then move the winch and bow roller back to fit against and support the bow.

    Typically you want the bow roller to press against the hull under the ridge above the hull bow eye. Properly configured, the tensioned winch strap should route almost straight forward from the hull bow eye, pass under the bow roller and angled up to the winch reel.

    The Triton winch tower is almost endlessly adjustable in multiple places.
    The winch assembly slides up/down the winch post.
    The bow roller arm angle is adjustable.
    The winch post angle is adjustable relative to the trailer frame rail.
    The winch base slides along the rail.
    The rail can slide along the trailer frame.

    Per the Triton diagram you posted, the arm for the bow roller should be close to 90 degree angle to the winch post. The winch post angle to the trailer frame and the height of the winch itself on the post are used to align the bow roller to the correct height relative to the hull and bow eye.

    I found the Triton factory blue bow rollers were abrasive to the soft factory Yamaha hull paint so I installed orange Stoltz brand bow rollers instead.

    I also added an additional strap guide roller between the winch and bow roller. This improved the strap angles at the bow eye.



    Once the hull position fore/aft (for correct tongue weight) and winch tower adjustments (to hold the hull in the correct position) are set, look at where the rear of the hull sits relative to the trailer frame and bunk ends at the rear.

    Note that Triton bunks are not symmetrical from end to end. If there is not enough (or too much) bunk extension behind the hull rear, the bunks can be removed and swapped end for end. Depending on which way they were originally installed, swapping them end for end can move the rear edge of the bunks forward or rearward by several inches.

  10. #40
    K447, thank you.
    It is hard to say how much farther apart I need to go with bunks. I can only gestimste.
    I wish I could just flip my Runner upside down and measure...you'd think Yamaha publish detailed instructions and measurements.

    Do you use any GPS on your ski?

    How do you prep. your ski fir salt water?

    What water ski or board should I buy to get my family in water skiing and water boarding (...last one doesnt sound right... but you know what I mean)

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