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  1. #1
    DoubleTap's Avatar
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    Jet pump bolt failure and cooling hose failure

    My wife's 2015 Ultra Lx was losing top speed and I noticed lots of water spray inside the the tunnel when she was riding. When I got it out of the water two of the Jet pump Nozzle bolts had sheered off. The bolts had no rust on the outside but the center of the bolts had rust and that popped the bolt head off. It was a easy fix but something you should keep an eye on. The ski is always fresh water flushed. The Jet pump was removed and lubed still looked great with 350 hours. Anyone else experienced this?

    My 2018 310x had the bottom cooling hose fail at 92 hours. Couldn't see the leak but at full throttle it would cutout, water was spraying on the belt. I've had a 2011 300x (265hours), 2015 310x (350hours) and this 2018 310x(100 Hours) and I can't seem to get these bottom hoses to last. Anyone else having this issue? Thought it might be the protective spray? The first ski I used straight silicone spray, Second ski I used fluid film then Yama lube, and this ski has only seen Yama Lube/applied lightly. Are these hoses just that weak?

  2. #2

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    I have heard of hose issues but you seem to have the luck for sure..... What are you replacing the hoses with? The only JetSki I've had a cooling hose go was on my 2003 12F, the 300x still seems ok.. I replaced it with a high pressure hose from NAPA and you could tell the quality was better, and way cheaper..

  3. #3
    DoubleTap's Avatar
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    Yea I've got the luck. I've had both my 310's rebuilt because of piston failure too!
    I have a extended warranty on the 310 so the dealer just replaced the hose.

  4. #4
    I do not spray "anything" inside the Hull on my Ultras. In my post rode procedure / wash down, I remove every drop of water inside the Hull. Therefore, sprays of any kind are not needed. Too, some of these "sprays" may eat away at the rubber over time.

    My 2014 Ultra is going on 6 years old . . . I have not had any issues with the cooling hoses on this Ski. JB

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by john belton View Post
    I do not spray "anything" inside the Hull on my Ultras. In my post rode procedure / wash down, I remove every drop of water inside the Hull. Therefore, sprays of any kind are not needed. Too, some of these "sprays" may eat away at the rubber over time.

    My 2014 Ultra is going on 6 years old . . . I have not had any issues with the cooling hoses on this Ski. JB

    With the humidity and salt in South Florida you have to coat these skis with some sort of oil/silicon or they will rust bad. No matter how much you rinse and dry them. Warranty will cover blown hoses but not rust!

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  7. #6
    Well in 2014 on my 2013 Ultra300X the Belt was trash because it slips of because of using XPS Spray in the Engine Bay.... so dont use stuff like that just wash idt down after salt water ride witth Salt away and let it dry.
    2nd thing is later an Cooling Hose hat a leak as well so this is a easy to fix Problem... maybe you need to remove the catch can and the Intercooler to make some work Room for ya


  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleTap View Post
    With the humidity and salt in South Florida you have to coat these skis with some sort of oil/silicon or they will rust bad. No matter how much you rinse and dry them. Warranty will cover blown hoses but not rust!

    You´re right but XPS or Fluid Film with water in the Hull is a bad combination....

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FAMT View Post
    You´re right but XPS or Fluid Film with water in the Hull is a bad combination....
    Yea, I agree but my 2018 310 has only seen Yamalube which is what the dealer told me to use when my last 310 was having these same issues. Yamalube is designed to be safe with the rubber hoses. My 2015 ultra lx has 350 hours not one blown hose using it. I'm starting to wonder if it's the pressure these hoses are under during full throttle?

  10. #9
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    Double post.

  11. #10
    yes more rpm more pressure on the cooling System, when you´re running aftermarket ECU/Reflashes and ad on Parts...
    So everything is made for 7600 rpm not 8000+

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