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  1. #1
    Dirtfishing's Avatar
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    2002 Virage 700 Crankshaft or whole engines...Which ones can I use?

    I bought a 2002 Virage as a Winter project hoping I was getting a deal ,but it looks like I over paid again for something that doesn't run. That's a hard lesson to learn...but it always seems like a good idea at the time . I pulled the fuel tank and engine only to find the crank is locked up tight! I guess it is not the end of the world as I did want a project. I just have a couple questions to start out with as I get this project ball rolling.

    If I go the rebuild route with this engine which years and models can I use the crankshafts out of? I guess that question works also for swapping the whole engine. Which years and models can I just swap engines? It is a 700 with the red carbureted engine.

    I have looked on eBay for the crank and engine and there are some that look like mine but they come from different years and models than mine. I just want to make sure I am not spending a bunch of money on a new boat anchor...been there done that.

    Thanks for any help.
    Scott
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  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    for the most part, all 2 cyl watercraft engines will be the same. The biggest difference to install any of the early engines is the stator housing.The part you took a picture of. The early stators harness exited near the starter-not through the "D" shaped hole. Removing that housing is recommended to replace the front crank seal.

    The piston and cylinders changed alot through the years, so mixing and matching is a longer story.

    A member here has new factory crankshafts at a great price. I will have him contact you.

  3. #3
    casey67's Avatar
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    Private message sent with contact info.
    Please check you notifications at top of page.

  4. #4

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    Before you decide to rebuild your engine, open up the case and see if the crank bearings spun inside the case, enlarging the bearing bores. You want to know if you have a good case before you decide what to do. You can have your case repaired if it is worn but it’s another expense.

  5. #5
    Dirtfishing's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. The engine is completely torn down that was just a picture I had of the tag on my phone. So will any of the cranks fit my engine as long as they are from a 700 domestic carbureted model...Virage, Freedom, Genesis or SLT? We rode older Kawasaki 750s all last year and I just wanted something a little more stable for my wife this year.
    Thanks again

  6. #6
    Dirtfishing's Avatar
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    Thanks for pointing that out about the bearing bores. I took a picture of the cases and I don't think the bearings spun. Casey67 put me in touch someone with a crank so it looks like I will be going the rebuild route as long as an engine doesn't fall in my lap in the next day or so. I am sure I will have more questions as this project moves along. Thanks again and I will keep posting updates and pictures.
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  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtfishing View Post
    So will any of the cranks fit my engine as long as they are from a 700 domestic carbureted model...Virage, Freedom, Genesis or SLT? Thanks again
    The Genesis only came with the 1200 engine, it is a 4 person ski.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...hlight=2201243
    This is a link to my sale post. Mike has the same crankshaft.
    It is the latest part # and has the locating clip on the third bearing from the front. It does supercede all the earlier crank part numbers.
    You can look up all Polaris parts here. The advanced search will allow you to search which models the part number covers.
    http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp

    The cases really just hold the outer bearing race and locate the crank with the clips. The newer rear seals have locating clips molded into the seals.
    It looks like you have some discoloration at the rear bearings surface. A drop or 2 of permanent Loctite helps hold the race if there is minor damage.

  8. #8
    Dirtfishing's Avatar
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    My new crank came this week, and it looks great. Thanks casey67 and Mike for all of the help with the crank. If anyone needs a Polaris crank I would get in touch with casey67 and I am sure he or Mike will be able to help you out.

    I plan on ordering my pistons and gasket set this week so I can start putting the engine back together soon. Today I fixed the reverse lever, checked my starter and removed a bunch of stickers. Tomorrow I would like to go through my carb and get it all cleaned up.

    My speedometer is pegged at 80 mph and I wanted to see if the electronics can all be hooked up without the engine in it to check the MFI ? I believe the ski has been sitting in a barn for around 3 or more years without a battery. It would be nice to find out if I needed to keep my eye out for a new cluster or if this one is going to be OK.

    Thanks again

  9. #9
    Dirtfishing's Avatar
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    I now have all of the stuff I need to put my crank in and hope to get that done this week or weekend depending on work. I did hook all of my electrical back up and threw a battery in to check the MFI and it seems to be working like it should.
    Now for my next question. The cylinders are at 3.191 inches, so can I just order a standard size piston set? 81 mm is 3.189 inches. I ran a hone through the cylinders and they look ok with just a couple vertical marks...but nothing that really grabs a fingernail. The book says .004 clearance max, but do the pistons come right at 81mm? Trying to figure this out before ordering the wrong parts.
    Thanks

  10. #10
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    I'd suggest you measure the cylinder bore taper and out-of-round. Often, I find cylinders can "look" good and hone up well. However, when I measure taper and out-of-round, they are worn well beyond spec. The idea here is to have a piston/ring seal that has minimal blow-by. That is difficult when trying to seal an oblong hole with a round plug. Also, measure the ring end gap and be sure it is within spec.

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