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  1. #1

    Adding a 2nd bilge pump

    I am thinking to add a 2nd bilge pump, i already have the OEM one but I am pretty sure that in case of emergency it will not be enough. I read several posts about rule, whale, Johnson... what I understood is that it’s better to avoid the cheaper automatic ones with mechanical floater switch inside. The whale ss1212 seems to be good but I read a lot of complains on Amazon about it... what is your advice for an automatic pump today, with decent capacity? And where to install as second pump? I am thinking on the back near the battery, where there was the silencer (removed- free flow exhaust kit) I have an RXT 260 rs as.

  2. #2
    barry1976's Avatar
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    Bilge pumps should be mounted in the lowest most rearward position. As suggested on another thread about the carbon seal failure, a 1000gph was recommend with an external line for drainage and not to use the siphon tube hose which are to small and below water line so you wont know you have an issue.

    Last edited by barry1976; 12-17-2019 at 11:58 AM.

  3. #3
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    I have two Rule 750gph pumps with a Auto-Off-On switch setup on my Turbo TX. 1 in front of the engine, which is lowest point in hull at rest and the other in the rear left side between WB and pump tunnel.

    They have worked as advertised several times over the years for loose clamps, split hoses, etc. BUT......the one time I needed them the most was a drive line failure and the c clip popped off, and the damn ski sank like the Titanic in less than 2 minutes.......both pumps could not keep up!

  4. #4
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Adding an extra bilge pump is a great idea – I have one, 1,100 GPM, with and above waterline discharge port, as the poster above mentions. It also has an override-on switch mounted up on my console.

    The mechanical float-switch style do suffer from failure - especially when using an external float. Also, being for a ski, they’ll sees tons of up/down pounding on the hull. Some float types are better than others, with the internal floats being preferred.

    The alternative are the “sensing” pumps, but these detect water by momentary spinning up every few minutes. The disadvantage with these, is that they use power to perform the repeated tests, so if you electrically tie it into your run circuit, it won’t detect water while your ski is not running. If you connect it to your battery directly, it will always be testing for water, which can present a parasitic-drain to your battery over time when not riding.

    I’m of the opinion that a bilge pump needs to always be ready to pump – ski on or off, so I went with the internal float type. Knock on wood – no issues thus far, and there is a small twist-knob on the pump's body where I routinely test the float actuation and freedom of movement. Also, the remote override-on switch can help save a bad situation if the float ever failed while I am operating the ski.

    That all said, there are other automatic pumps which use a “probe” (aka water conducts electrical current across the probe metal ends) to sense water. If reliable, this might be a good option for direct battery connection and mechanical reliability, however I’d imagine there is still some subtle parasitic draw for the internal probe detection circuit - mind-you, way less power than the every 3 minute “spin-up” types. My only reservation with these -- probe contamination. Bilges can be dirty, stray grease, oils, gunk, etc… either which could falsely trigger the pump on or prevent it from sensing – who knows really.
    Last edited by TimeBandit; 12-18-2019 at 09:56 AM. Reason: syntax


  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1976 View Post
    Bilge pumps should be mounted in the lowest most rearward position. As suggested on another thread about the carbon seal failure, a 1000gph was recommended with an external line for drainage and not to use the siphon tube hose which are too small and below water line so you wont know you have an issue.

    Electric bilge pump installation should always be entirely separate from and not connected in any way with the factory bilge suction/scavenge system.

    I prefer to also retain the factory ‘siphon’ system, it is useful for extracting residual bilge water as you ride.

    I do recommend that the electric bilge pump exit fitting be mounted so the rider can easily see the water flow out. This serves as ‘early’ warning that there is too much water inside the hull, enough to activate the bilge pump. Immediately head towards shore/safety. Check under the seat AFTER you are in shallow water or beached.

    The bilge pump buys you time to get to somewhere safe. The bigger the bilge pump capacity the more time it can provide, working against whatever incoming flow is allowing water to enter the hull.

    Do not worry about a ‘too large’ bilge pump running the battery down. If the engine is running and you are riding with some throttle, the electrical system can handle the bilge pumps(s).

    If the engine is not running, big(ger) bilge pumps will use just enough battery capacity to keep the hull ‘empty’. If getting the water out requires a ‘big’ bilge pump to run continuously then a smaller capacity bilge pump would have allowed the hull to flood/sink even sooner.

    You are better off with a depleted battery and a still floating hull than a smaller bilge pump and a half discharged battery inside a flooded hull.

  6. #6
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    Agreed, something is better than nothing but a second bilge pump IMO is not necessary. One is enough for most leaks. If you have a failure as jpt stated, nothing will be able to keep up with the amount of water entering the hull.

  7. #7
    barry1976's Avatar
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    How are you guys mounting the bilge pump if you're not tying it into the siphon tube?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1976 View Post
    How are you guys mounting the bilge pump if you're not tying it into the siphon tube?
    I use a Right Stuff Black sealant - quite sticky and viscous straight out of the dispenser, then slowly cures to a fairly tough bond.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3011258

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2876824



    No idea how the bilge siphon would be related to the mounting of an electric bilge pump

  9. #9
    I am looking to a Johnson spx 1000 gph, which comes basically in two version: one old style with an electronic external switch called ultima combo, and a newer one Called ultima that has an electronic switch too, but is all integrated in one package. May be the old orange round one can be better fitted in the tight space because you can separate the sensor from the body of the pump if you need? I sow that somebody here mounted it? What you think about? Any advice?

  10. #10
    barry1976's Avatar
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    The pump from Seadoo mounts in the siphon brackets and uses 1 hose to suck/push the water.

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