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  1. #11
    HERe in Romania we threaded the old style shaft with pressed coupler - and then fitted the new style one. The pressed one needs to be heated and pressed out like crankshafts 2 stroke style. So a good machinist can do it perfectly.


  2. #12
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidescu_radu View Post
    HERe in Romania we threaded the old style shaft with pressed coupler - and then fitted the new style one. The pressed one needs to be heated and pressed out like crankshafts 2 stroke style. So a good machinist can do it perfectly.
    I looked into that option for a backup plan if this spark didn't have the updated adapter. Thankfully it had the updated version.

    To update this thread. Got my Spark alignment adapter plate finally and was able to check engine alignment. This ski was WAY off from the factory.





    I was able to get an idea of shim thickness needed by taking the engine mount top plate and using it as a shim. Right around 3/8" needed in the rear and a small washers worth at the front to get it aligned! Can see the top plates holding the engine up in the picture below.




    After pricing a shim kit at $105, which is highway robbery, I decided to redesign the shim in autocad and will be taking that file to a local sheet metal place to make me up a few shims out of aluminum plating. If I go with 1/8" thick shims I should need around 8 of them. 3 on each corner in the rear and one on each corner in the front.

    From the factory this ski had 3 shims under each front mount...
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  3. #13
    did you make the alignment plate as well?

    Please share pics of the finished shims and the plate.

    Would you share the CAD file?

  4. #14
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    I didn't make the alignment plate. Was cheap enough to just purchase it outright. I paid $45ish for it shipped. Already owned the main Seadoo alignment kit.

    Hoping to get a call today saying the shims are done. I'm not "close" with this outfit yet so not getting any crazy discount or anything. But I am still saving a decent amount of money over ordering the full kit at $105. If there is enough interest in the shims, I can look into getting a extra batch made and selling them. Once I get my final price I will have a better idea of what I could price them at. Obviously the bigger the batch the less they cost to make.

    I happened to have some spare aluminum sheet metal laying around that was almost the same thickness as the factory shims. Right at 1/16th (0.0625) inch. The factory 1.3mm shims convert to 0.0511 inch. They are making me 18 or so.

  5. #15
    are these shims formed or just cut sheet metal?

  6. #16
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Factory shims are most likely stamped. The ones I am having made are cut on a CNC plasma table and then deburred/cleaned up

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by raiderteen View Post
    Factory shims are most likely stamped. The ones I am having made are cut on a CNC plasma table and then deburred/cleaned up
    why don't you just cut the shims yourself with a jigsaw??

  8. #18
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    I don't have access to a jigsaw suitable for this work. But that would certainly be another way to do them as well. Seeing as I needed a minimum of 16 made (at 1/16" each) it made sense to have them made this way. I could've even made them by hand with a dremel/angle grinder. But again, needing that quantity it would have taken a decent bit of my time to do by hand.

    I got the call saying they are ready for pickup. Will be heading there shortly.

  9. #19
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    Got the shims for free (not counting my previous cost of the aluminum). When I got there and compared to a factory shim there was a issue with how their cnc converted the file I gave them. They were a solid inch too wide between the slots. We decided it was easiest and quickest (this was a friday at closing time) to just cut the difference in width out of the center with their sheet metal shear machine. 10 mins and they were split down the middle and perfect width. He didn't charge me but I asked the price would have been for future reference and it was $50. I got 18 made but not much change in time once the machine is runner if I did a larger batch.



    Finished today aligning the motor. Shims worked perfect even though it was slightly more work installing two "shims" per mount since they were split in two. Ended up with adding three shims each in the rear and one each in the front.




    So all that being said. I've got 10 extra shims (20 halfs). One cool thing I though of with these being cut like they are is they could be used for other engine mounts as well like old school 2 strokes with the single bolt on each corner. If anyone is interested shoot me a pm. They won't be anything near what they cost from seadoo/sbt/ebay. They are basically the same 1.3mm thickness as factory shims FYI.

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  10. #20
    looks real good!

    I can't believe how out of center it all was from the factory. Is it possible it moved somehow? Did you try rotating the engine and seeing if there was any noticeable runout? How was it even functioning properly??

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